How the heck!!! Power steering...Uck!!
07-29-2016, 09:08 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
How the heck!!! Power steering...Uck!!
Wow the C5 power steering system is a huge "cluster F." Clamps positioned so you can't get them. Fittings in rack so tight you have to nearly destroy them. No holes in freaking plastic pulley so you have to break the thing to get to the pump bolts!
Then the coup de grass...how the heck do you get the pulley back on the pump shaft??
You can't heat the plastic pulley to expand the metal center to slide over the shaft.
I drove the pulley onto the shaft only to drive the shaft out the back of the pump!!! What a POS!
I can rebuild a Ferrari motor but I can't get this dang pulley on.
So what is the secret handshake?
Motor R&R is a real pita.
TIA
Then the coup de grass...how the heck do you get the pulley back on the pump shaft??
You can't heat the plastic pulley to expand the metal center to slide over the shaft.
I drove the pulley onto the shaft only to drive the shaft out the back of the pump!!! What a POS!
I can rebuild a Ferrari motor but I can't get this dang pulley on.
So what is the secret handshake?
Motor R&R is a real pita.
TIA
Last edited by fatbillybob; 07-29-2016 at 09:09 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by froggy47:
StKnoWhere (08-02-2016),
SunnydayDILYSI (08-01-2016)
07-30-2016, 09:09 PM
#7
Drifting
Is it typically the pump or the rack or both that need to be replaced in our cars (c5)?
I've changed my fluid to redline but the "whine" is back after an on track session. It basically sounds like a big belt drive blower when I turn the wheel driving back through the paddock.
I've changed my fluid to redline but the "whine" is back after an on track session. It basically sounds like a big belt drive blower when I turn the wheel driving back through the paddock.
07-30-2016, 09:28 PM
#8
Pro
First the pump then the seals in the rack (they both are weak points). Turn One will replace them both with quality gear (if you ship your rack to them they will replace the seals). The Turn One pump also helps reduce strain on the system as it reduces the work of the pump by ~1/3 (increases work of driver a bit though).
07-30-2016, 10:44 PM
#9
Race Director
Both
First the pump then the seals in the rack (they both are weak points). Turn One will replace them both with quality gear (if you ship your rack to them they will replace the seals). The Turn One pump also helps reduce strain on the system as it reduces the work of the pump by ~1/3 (increases work of driver a bit though).
08-02-2016, 09:31 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Froggy,
Thanks! I figured it out after I took a long look at it. My old blind eyes saw the hex in the snout but not the threads!!! So like an idiot I forced on my 1st plastic pulley which failed and I had to break it off. I could not heat the pulley to expand the center and finesse it on being plastic. So then I bought the LS3 pulley out of metal so I could heat it and slide it on.
Below is all you need to put one of these pulleys on. The thread is 3/8-16 and you need grade 8 full thread 3" bolt and nut and some thick washers. You can then drive the pulley on with no heat if you want to go plastic. The metal is indestructible. Some claim the plastic can fail with high HP or racing. I never heard it happen since racing these since 2007. The metal is heavy with lots of inertia so probably cost me HP like a heavy clutch but that's what I could get locally instantly and it will never break plus I have access to the pump bolts if I want to take the pump out. The bolt you need might not be available locally so you can order from mcmaster carr. I could not wait so I used a 6" grade 2 hardware section of home depot racing supply. It barely worked and I was very ginger with the nut bolt, lubed it and it still deformed and bent but my pulley is on. Get a grade 8 bolt and no problem.
Thanks! I figured it out after I took a long look at it. My old blind eyes saw the hex in the snout but not the threads!!! So like an idiot I forced on my 1st plastic pulley which failed and I had to break it off. I could not heat the pulley to expand the center and finesse it on being plastic. So then I bought the LS3 pulley out of metal so I could heat it and slide it on.
Below is all you need to put one of these pulleys on. The thread is 3/8-16 and you need grade 8 full thread 3" bolt and nut and some thick washers. You can then drive the pulley on with no heat if you want to go plastic. The metal is indestructible. Some claim the plastic can fail with high HP or racing. I never heard it happen since racing these since 2007. The metal is heavy with lots of inertia so probably cost me HP like a heavy clutch but that's what I could get locally instantly and it will never break plus I have access to the pump bolts if I want to take the pump out. The bolt you need might not be available locally so you can order from mcmaster carr. I could not wait so I used a 6" grade 2 hardware section of home depot racing supply. It barely worked and I was very ginger with the nut bolt, lubed it and it still deformed and bent but my pulley is on. Get a grade 8 bolt and no problem.
08-02-2016, 11:12 PM
#11
Race Director
Froggy,
Thanks! I figured it out after I took a long look at it. My old blind eyes saw the hex in the snout but not the threads!!! So like an idiot I forced on my 1st plastic pulley which failed and I had to break it off. I could not heat the pulley to expand the center and finesse it on being plastic. So then I bought the LS3 pulley out of metal so I could heat it and slide it on.
Below is all you need to put one of these pulleys on. The thread is 3/8-16 and you need grade 8 full thread 3" bolt and nut and some thick washers. You can then drive the pulley on with no heat if you want to go plastic. The metal is indestructible. Some claim the plastic can fail with high HP or racing. I never heard it happen since racing these since 2007. The metal is heavy with lots of inertia so probably cost me HP like a heavy clutch but that's what I could get locally instantly and it will never break plus I have access to the pump bolts if I want to take the pump out. The bolt you need might not be available locally so you can order from mcmaster carr. I could not wait so I used a 6" grade 2 hardware section of home depot racing supply. It barely worked and I was very ginger with the nut bolt, lubed it and it still deformed and bent but my pulley is on. Get a grade 8 bolt and no problem.
Thanks! I figured it out after I took a long look at it. My old blind eyes saw the hex in the snout but not the threads!!! So like an idiot I forced on my 1st plastic pulley which failed and I had to break it off. I could not heat the pulley to expand the center and finesse it on being plastic. So then I bought the LS3 pulley out of metal so I could heat it and slide it on.
Below is all you need to put one of these pulleys on. The thread is 3/8-16 and you need grade 8 full thread 3" bolt and nut and some thick washers. You can then drive the pulley on with no heat if you want to go plastic. The metal is indestructible. Some claim the plastic can fail with high HP or racing. I never heard it happen since racing these since 2007. The metal is heavy with lots of inertia so probably cost me HP like a heavy clutch but that's what I could get locally instantly and it will never break plus I have access to the pump bolts if I want to take the pump out. The bolt you need might not be available locally so you can order from mcmaster carr. I could not wait so I used a 6" grade 2 hardware section of home depot racing supply. It barely worked and I was very ginger with the nut bolt, lubed it and it still deformed and bent but my pulley is on. Get a grade 8 bolt and no problem.
