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Stuck in 3rd

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Old 08-17-2016, 10:03 PM
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Jeffdenney
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Default Stuck in 3rd

So I took the vette out last night, and down shifted from 6th to 3rd at 50 mph. I'm sure I blipped the throttle to match revs. And then I gave it the full beans up to 6500rpm. I then pushed the clutch all the way in pull the shifter towards 4th and it felt like the was off limits, like I hit a wall.. lol

And now the car is stuck in third or neutral..

So I just purchased the car and cant afford to spend a bunch of money on it at the moment since I just got it..

My plans thus far,

-Order a steel 3/4 fork since my car is 02 and I would assume has the aluminum fork.
-order the 3/4 syncro
-order the billet keys and spring kit.
-and whatever the minimum amount of part/seals/gaskets I need to make this car run until winter, then I'll probably send the whole trans to have rebuilt. I know it was tracked a little so its been through its paces.. all this will come from tick performance unless you guys have a better suggestion..

I have a MGW short throw on the car, I don't know if that makes any difference..

I can do the work. I have the tools. I need to know if there is anything else I need though..

So any suggestions? I will be talking again with tick performance in the morning, but I would like to hear from you guys also..suggestions on a good manual also?


Can anyone maybe explain what might have happened? I'm thinking maybe syncro stuck on 3rd, key or spring broke???


Thanks
Jeff
Old 08-18-2016, 02:14 AM
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gimp
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I assume you got it safely home and parking it, right? And with the engine off, can you move the shifter anywhere but neutral and third?
Old 08-18-2016, 11:07 AM
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How many miles are on the car? I lost my 2nd gear syncro at 86K and went ahead and replaced all the syncros, keys, bearings etc.

Here's the kit I bought that had everything in it. If you have to go through pulling the trans I would just rebuild. May think about a new clutch too since you have it apart already. Just a thought.

http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56-...d-kit-package/
Old 08-18-2016, 03:56 PM
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jimmyLSX
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Sounds like you clutch master/slave cylinder catastraphically failed, and it wouldn't let you get into 4th. Can u move the shifter into a different gear while the car is off? Hows the clutch pedal feel?

Things are gonna get expensive quick depending on the mileage of the car and previous ownership, I wonder if the P/O knew what was up and decided to dump the car.

Pulling out the drivetrain is a pita the first time around.

Might wanna consider upgrading clutch if its still stock.
Stock Clutch Master Cylinder = LS7 or Twin Disc.
Aftermarket Clutch Master Cylinder = Twin Disc or Single or LS7

Last edited by jimmyLSX; 08-18-2016 at 03:57 PM.
Old 08-19-2016, 01:04 PM
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Jeffdenney
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Originally Posted by gimp
I assume you got it safely home and parking it, right? And with the engine off, can you move the shifter anywhere but neutral and third?
Yes I got the car home, thank god for massive torque. my beamer will not take off in third. lol

And when the car is off, it is still stuck in 3rd or the neutral position just below third. can't move the shifter side to side at all.
Old 08-19-2016, 01:12 PM
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Jeffdenney
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Originally Posted by jimmyLSX
Sounds like you clutch master/slave cylinder catastraphically failed, and it wouldn't let you get into 4th. Can u move the shifter into a different gear while the car is off? Hows the clutch pedal feel?

Things are gonna get expensive quick depending on the mileage of the car and previous ownership, I wonder if the P/O knew what was up and decided to dump the car.

Pulling out the drivetrain is a pita the first time around.

Might wanna consider upgrading clutch if its still stock.
Stock Clutch Master Cylinder = LS7 or Twin Disc.
Aftermarket Clutch Master Cylinder = Twin Disc or Single or LS7
Clutch feels just as firm as ever. And when car is off, still stuck in the 3rd or neutral position. car has 76k miles and previous owner gave me tons of service records and invoices. PO is a super stand up guy and I'm sure he didn't dump the car on me.

Drive train removal looks like a job for sure, gotta learn sometime though. Clutch is a spec brand with aluminum flywheel and it has less than 12k on it. I have receipts for all that.



Originally Posted by lane_viper
How many miles are on the car? I lost my 2nd gear syncro at 86K and went ahead and replaced all the syncros, keys, bearings etc.

Here's the kit I bought that had everything in it. If you have to go through pulling the trans I would just rebuild. May think about a new clutch too since you have it apart already. Just a thought.

http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56-...d-kit-package/
76k miles, I really didn't want to rebuild the entire trans right now since I only have a few weeks of driving left this season. I wouldn't mind pulling the trans again this winter and paying to have it professionally gone through and rebuilt.





I spoke with Tick performance yesterday and they recommend just pulling the trans and getting in there to see what is going on before they would suggest any further action.

So monday when I get back. my vette comes apart. lol
Thanks for your help guys.
Old 08-19-2016, 01:13 PM
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can anyone suggest me a T56 book or manual to help me once I have things torn apart?

Also looking for the best manual for the C5 in general if anyone has a ny suggestions for that.
Old 08-22-2016, 12:49 AM
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Hey Jeff, sorry to hear about the clutch. I'll be following the thread to see what's going on.

If it makes easier for you, I'm forwarding the invoice to you, and to make easier for the other forum members, here's what I bought:

1 x SPEC Stage 2, 690 Foot Pounds of Torque (LS1 & LS6)
- Flywheel Type: Steel Billet (+$233.10)
- Concentric Hydraulic Release Bea: No
- Clutch Slave Cylinder - without: No
- Clutch Master Cylinder: No
- Aluminum Pressure Plate: No SC092 $619.20 $619.20
Sub-Total: $619.20
Total: $619.20

Thank you for purchasing from BYUNSPEED
http://www.BYUNSPEED.com
Please print this invoice for your records

It was professionally installed by the Corvette specialist in Moyock I told you about.

Car was never really tracked. A few Auto-X sessions in 2012 and one 2 days driving school at VIR in 2014 doesn't quality for clutch abuse. Car was sitting a lot since my daughter was born in 2013, I don't think I drove more than 1000 miles per year after that.
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Old 08-22-2016, 02:09 PM
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gimp
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Best manual for the C5 is the shop manual. Search for one used on ebay for your year. Used they should be ~$100, new they are $300.

Sorry to hear about the issues. It might be just the linkage, but I suspect it's worse than that...
Old 08-27-2016, 12:01 PM
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Jeffdenney
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Hi Rafael, I don't think its anything you did wrong. I'm totally satisfied with my purchase still. Thanks for the invoice though.. I believe You even gave me the paper invoice when we met for the buy, so now I have two copies. lol

I have most of the car apart right now. Brakes, control arms, halfshafts, exhaust, torque tube tunnel cover, Intake bridge, Center console and Short throw, and most of wiring harness.. I will be lowering the drivetrain out today sometime.

I have spoke with RPM transmission and I am driving the transmission down to them Monday 08/29/2016 . They are only 3 hours away and a very reputable shop from what I have read on the forum. If all goes well, they said I will be driving back Monday night with a happy transmission.

From what I have researched and read about the t56 m12, it sounds like I maybe sheared a shift key and/or something is definitely wrong with the 3/4 gear syncro.

FWIW, I did order some parts from the Tick Performance website before I decided to take the trans in to someone.

-Steel 3/4 shift fork
-billet keys and springs
-and 3/4 syncro assembly

They called me the next business day to inform me that the 3/4 syncro is sold out from everywhere and that they were going to refund my money for that part and shipping immediately. Fast and Great customer service on their end. Thanks guys at Tick.

I am still deciding if I should order the Tick upgraded master cylinder, for two reasons. First its got great reviews, and second my car has 76k miles so it may be time especially with an upgraded clutch.

As far as the manual subject goes, my plan is to buy the factory manual as soon as I'm done with this situation. And I know that sounds backwards, but I cant afford another $250 right this second.

Hopefully I can have the car all back together by next weekend and possibly make an HPDE event before the summers over.

Thanks for the help and now I'm looking for suggestions for fluids.

So far
-clutch/brakes----Motul 600
Trans-----redline or royal purple--synthetic ATF3
Diff---????? no clear winner yet
Old 08-27-2016, 02:52 PM
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OP, I hate to think you went through all of this, if the problem is actually something else. Are you sure it isn't a problem in the shift linkage? Maybe the clamp that links to the shifter box has loosened, allowing the shifter to move, yet the rod isn't shifting the transmission??
Old 08-27-2016, 10:21 PM
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Jeffdenney
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
OP, I hate to think you went through all of this, if the problem is actually something else. Are you sure it isn't a problem in the shift linkage? Maybe the clamp that links to the shifter box has loosened, allowing the shifter to move, yet the rod isn't shifting the transmission??
its a little late now. lol its out. haven't split it from the torque tube or diff yet, but I have a massive chunk of drive train sitting on jacks. Idk if its shifter linkage or not. The linkage seems ok to me. When the car was still assembled, I could shift it into neutral and 3rd. but those were my only options. It wouldn't let me move the shifter to either side. felt like the syncro was locked on third or something like that.
Old 08-27-2016, 10:36 PM
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rpm is a good group of guys... before you had this issue did the clutch have any issues shifting at redline?... if not then you may not need the tick master cylinder, usually people install those when they are having trouble with high rpm shifts... on the other hand it can help make your shifts really fast so that is a plus... if you order their standard master the pedal will be a bit firmer due to a larger bore which some people don't like but they also offer a stock bore master so order that one if you don't want any added pedal pressure
Old 08-27-2016, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by neutron82
rpm is a good group of guys... before you had this issue did the clutch have any issues shifting at redline?... if not then you may not need the tick master cylinder, usually people install those when they are having trouble with high rpm shifts... on the other hand it can help make your shifts really fast so that is a plus... if you order their standard master the pedal will be a bit firmer due to a larger bore which some people don't like but they also offer a stock bore master so order that one if you don't want any added pedal pressure

The clutch seemed fine for the entire 800 mile trip back from North Carolina. What you are saying about the Tick master cylinder is exactly as I have read.

My daily is an e39 BMW and it seems like lightning shifts compared to the heavy and slow operation of the T56 in the vette. So maybe I'm a little spoiled in that department. I don't need to order it right away since the master cylinder doesn't require the drive-train to be removed for installation. I'll most likely install the trans and everything back in and then see how it drives. I can then decide what to do about the master cylinder if I decide to do anything at all.
Old 08-27-2016, 10:56 PM
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yeah you can always install everything and see how you like it first before going ahead with the master so that is a plus not having to take it all apart again... you can make these cars shift really good but it costs a lot of $$$$ to get it that way... on fluids I use motul rbf600 in the brakes/clutch and I have had a good experience with amsoil torque drive atf in the trans and amsoil severe gear 75/90 in the diff
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Old 08-27-2016, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by neutron82
yeah you can always install everything and see how you like it first before going ahead with the master so that is a plus not having to take it all apart again... you can make these cars shift really good but it costs a lot of $$$$ to get it that way... on fluids I use motul rbf600 in the brakes/clutch and I have had a good experience with amsoil torque drive atf in the trans and amsoil severe gear 75/90 in the diff
Thanks for the suggestions on fluids! This is currently soaking up most of my search time. Way too many choices! I'm definitely gonna look into those now.

Last edited by Jeffdenney; 08-27-2016 at 11:15 PM.
Old 08-28-2016, 06:28 PM
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Quick shot of the drivetrain yesterday after i got it removed from the vehicle. I used a floor jack under the torque tube, but I found it much easier to move the drivetrain by myself if I just held the torque tube and bossed the trans jack around with it. So that is why it is sitting on the floor right now..



Then I have the transmission in the trunk of my daily. Headed to RPM at 5am!

Sorry for the caption, it was a snapchat..

Am I gaining experience points yet?? lol

Last edited by Jeffdenney; 08-28-2016 at 06:33 PM.

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Old 08-28-2016, 08:30 PM
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looking good, let us know how things go at rpm and what they discover
Old 08-29-2016, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeffdenney
There are SO many things that could be said about that picture, and it's caption. But I won't, as this discussion isn't in PR&C.................






Good Luck with the repairs!
Old 08-29-2016, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
There are SO many things that could be said about that picture, and it's caption.
I was thinking the same when I first saw it, at least I'm not alone


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