[C1] 1962 C1 leaking oil at back plate on brake rear left
08-28-2016, 11:58 AM
#1
1962 C1 leaking oil at back plate on brake rear left
I am slowly moving from New York to south Florida. I so far have my 1999 Jaguar XK8 convertible here from last trip and this trip I had my 1962 C1 Corvette shipped here. When the car arrived I saw that the rear left backing plate on the inner side that I can see from under center of the car is very wet. The brake master is full and brake pedal is great so it is not brake fluid. I don't have many tools down here as I am still mostly up in NY. Also no jack that I would feel secure enough to lie under car with. I don't know anyone here yet. How long can I drive it like this before damage occurs? i wanted to bring it to a shop to check rear oil level. Before the car left New York I had tranny, rear and motor oils drained and replaced with no traces of any leakage anywhere. I am wondering if the truckers chain did damage to the rear axel by the backing plate. I might have to wait till next month when I bring my C2 here with tools and a jack and stands in the back. I just blew out my back and now I can't get under. I left my service manuals up north and wondering if there is a top fill bolt in rear to see how much oil is gone? If so can I squeeze under maybe Tuesday with a 90w oil pump and top off the rear so I can move it?
Thanks
Jax
1962 C1
Thanks
Jax
1962 C1
08-28-2016, 12:07 PM
#2
Team Owner
If you are convinced its not brake fluid then you can use a crescent wrench to open the square bolt on the differential (and yes there should certainly be one) and feel with a finger tip...the oil level should be at the rim of the bolt hole...sometimes those bolts are tough to remove and require an 8 point socket and those are sort of hard to find.
Amsoil makes a nice cheap, plastic hand pump that will fit their fluid bottles and let you top off the rear end without a huge mess. I would refrain from driving the car unless absolutely necessary until you determine the cause of the leak.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...tle-hand-pump/
Amsoil makes a nice cheap, plastic hand pump that will fit their fluid bottles and let you top off the rear end without a huge mess. I would refrain from driving the car unless absolutely necessary until you determine the cause of the leak.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...tle-hand-pump/
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 08-28-2016 at 12:09 PM.
08-28-2016, 12:10 PM
#3
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2000
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That is "probably" rear end lube that is leaking out of the weep hole on the inside of the brake backing plate retainer The weep hole is there to prevent the lube from leaking inside the brake drum, which could really spoil your day.
It indicates that the rear axle seal and bearing have failed. You need someone with access to a press , and knowledge to use it correctly (you can remove the axle yourself, but you will not be able to remove / replace that bearing and it's bearing retainer with out the press).
As to how long, I would say don't go too far............and check the level via Frank's method above.
Where in Florida?
Plasticman
It indicates that the rear axle seal and bearing have failed. You need someone with access to a press , and knowledge to use it correctly (you can remove the axle yourself, but you will not be able to remove / replace that bearing and it's bearing retainer with out the press).
As to how long, I would say don't go too far............and check the level via Frank's method above.
Where in Florida?
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 08-28-2016 at 09:07 PM.
08-28-2016, 06:18 PM
#4
Race Director
08-29-2016, 01:49 PM
#7
That is "probably" rear end lube that is leaking out of the weep hole on the inside of the brake backing plate retainer The weep hole is there to prevent the lube from leaking inside the brake drum, which could really spoil your day.
It indicates that the rear axle seal and
bearing have failed. You need someone with access to a press , and knowledge to use it correctly (you can remove the axle yourself, but you will not be able to remove / replace that bearing and it's bearing retainer with out the press).
As to how long, I would say don't go too far............and check the level via Frank's method above.
Where in Florida?
Plasticman
It indicates that the rear axle seal and
bearing have failed. You need someone with access to a press , and knowledge to use it correctly (you can remove the axle yourself, but you will not be able to remove / replace that bearing and it's bearing retainer with out the press).
As to how long, I would say don't go too far............and check the level via Frank's method above.
Where in Florida?
Plasticman
having 2 four post lifts installed so my car life will be easier
08-29-2016, 01:50 PM
#8
[QUOTE=xkeots;1592948019]north of Lauderdale and South of DelRay beach. Boca Raton. Easy living. Pissed off I can't use my 62 while I am down here. It is in a locked, alarmed dry garage now. It will live a lot longer here. Next trip with my 63 SWC I will bring tools to get it going. It is what having a classic Vette is about. One day running great, next day a bad seal. Everyone concurred my thought. A broken brake line would have been easier.
having 2 four post lifts installed so my car life will be easier, a/c too.
thanks
jax
62 Vette
having 2 four post lifts installed so my car life will be easier, a/c too.
thanks
jax
62 Vette
08-29-2016, 08:27 PM
#9
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A very simple matter to pull the axle and inspect the bearing. If it's loose and rough (and it probably is if the seal is leaking), no big deal to have a new one pressed on. The axle pulls right out after you undo the flange bolts. No need to go into the diff, and not complicated. You may want to do the other side for peace of mind if the bearing is indeed bad.
08-29-2016, 10:35 PM
#10
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Note that the axle bearings have one or 2 O rings on the outside perimeter. These can fail, and cause a leak. But most of the time it is the bearing seals that are on the face of the bearing that fail due to excess runout of the bearing.
If the O ring failed, then the bore of the axle tube could be damaging the O ring (rust, or gouged during a previous repair), and close inspection should be made before reinstalling the axle.
https://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...aring&fr=yfp-t
Note that these O rings are not standardized (some may be a different size than original, depending on the bearing manf.), so ordering new O rings from say Corvette Central or another Corvette parts supplier may not work if the bearings are not original. McMaster-Carr is a good source, although you will purchase more than you may need......
Welcome to FL.
Plasticman
If the O ring failed, then the bore of the axle tube could be damaging the O ring (rust, or gouged during a previous repair), and close inspection should be made before reinstalling the axle.
https://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...aring&fr=yfp-t
Note that these O rings are not standardized (some may be a different size than original, depending on the bearing manf.), so ordering new O rings from say Corvette Central or another Corvette parts supplier may not work if the bearings are not original. McMaster-Carr is a good source, although you will purchase more than you may need......
Welcome to FL.
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 08-29-2016 at 10:45 PM.
08-30-2016, 04:20 PM
#11
Note that the axle bearings have one or 2 O rings on the outside perimeter. These can fail, and cause a leak. But most of the time it is the bearing seals that are on the face of the bearing that fail due to excess runout of the bearing.
If the O ring failed, then the bore of the axle tube could be damaging the O ring (rust, or gouged during a previous repair), and close inspection should be made before reinstalling the axle.
https://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...aring&fr=yfp-t
Note that these O rings are not standardized (some may be a different size than original, depending on the bearing manf.), so ordering new O rings from say Corvette Central or another Corvette parts supplier may not work if the bearings are not original. McMaster-Carr is a good source, although you will purchase more than you may need......
Welcome to FL.
Plasticman
If the O ring failed, then the bore of the axle tube could be damaging the O ring (rust, or gouged during a previous repair), and close inspection should be made before reinstalling the axle.
https://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...aring&fr=yfp-t
Note that these O rings are not standardized (some may be a different size than original, depending on the bearing manf.), so ordering new O rings from say Corvette Central or another Corvette parts supplier may not work if the bearings are not original. McMaster-Carr is a good source, although you will purchase more than you may need......
Welcome to FL.
Plasticman
08-30-2016, 07:27 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
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C1 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
2016 C1 of the Year Finalist
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If you have an industrial bearing supply house locally, they can get o-rings. You do need to know the size, though. I got a 5-pack for my '56 for $3.57.
08-30-2016, 09:24 PM
#13
If you are convinced its not brake fluid then you can use a crescent wrench to open the square bolt on the differential (and yes there should certainly be one) and feel with a finger tip...the oil level should be at the rim of the bolt hole...sometimes those bolts are tough to remove and require an 8 point socket and those are sort of hard to find.
Amsoil makes a nice cheap, plastic hand pump that will fit their fluid bottles and let you top off the rear end without a huge mess. I would refrain from driving the car unless absolutely necessary until you determine the cause of the leak.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...tle-hand-pump/
Amsoil makes a nice cheap, plastic hand pump that will fit their fluid bottles and let you top off the rear end without a huge mess. I would refrain from driving the car unless absolutely necessary until you determine the cause of the leak.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...tle-hand-pump/
thanks
jax
08-31-2016, 03:02 PM
#14
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As Frankie stated, use a Crescent wrench....12" or bigger. The best tool for the job, unless you have the correct socket and breaker bar. An end wrench has less leverage.