160 thermostat recommendation??
#2
Race Director
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LMR only
#3
Tech Contributor
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Stock. Car keeps plenty cool no matter where you are in the world with a stock thermostat. The thermostat only sets the minimum temp the engine will run at it doesn't affect the max temp and when you are running hard the coolant temp is well above the opening temp of the stock thermostat. If your coolant temp is 230 a 160 won't help.
Bill
Bill
#5
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Stock. Car keeps plenty cool no matter where you are in the world with a stock thermostat. The thermostat only sets the minimum temp the engine will run at it doesn't affect the max temp and when you are running hard the coolant temp is well above the opening temp of the stock thermostat. If your coolant temp is 230 a 160 won't help.
Bill
Bill
OP has a modified and tuned corvette and does not use it in a way that has anything to do with your post.
Yes, if you run around a road course for 30 minutes the temps will eventually be the same as stock due to the same cooling system in place, but under all other circumstances a 160 makes a huge difference in lowering temps, proven time and time again.
#6
Team Owner
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#7
Burning Brakes
Not everyone has a stock vehicle running around a road course.....
OP has a modified and tuned corvette and does not use it in a way that has anything to do with your post.
Yes, if you run around a road course for 30 minutes the temps will eventually be the same as stock due to the same cooling system in place, but under all other circumstances a 160 makes a huge difference in lowering temps, proven time and time again.
OP has a modified and tuned corvette and does not use it in a way that has anything to do with your post.
Yes, if you run around a road course for 30 minutes the temps will eventually be the same as stock due to the same cooling system in place, but under all other circumstances a 160 makes a huge difference in lowering temps, proven time and time again.
#9
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That doesn't sound right at all. 175 at cruise and idle, make sure the fans are set up right too.
#10
Burning Brakes
#11
Team Owner
Did you try re-burping it? Pretty simple.
Start with cold car on some ramps, just to get the front higher than the back. Get a bottle of coolant in case you get a lot of air. Uncork the rad cap and start the car.
Let it run and circulate until its warm. Check levels and if you see them falling that is good, means you had air in there. Top it back off and cap it.
#12
Burning Brakes
I noticed temps getting higher a few months ago, so I talked to LMR. They said they had a bad batch of early thermostats, so they sent me a new one a few weeks ago. I don't remember temps ever coming close to 220 at idle on the stock motor, but are now.
#14
Team Owner
#15
Melting Slicks
I am running a 170 degree from Summit for $35. Filed the edges of the spring so they don't tear the gasket and all is well. Problem is it takes a long time to heat up the coolant, therefore the rings around the tach won't go away because the temp guage has to reach 210 before they are gone If I had to do it over again would probably go with 180 stat...
#16
Safety Car
They also sent me a replacement which is working fine.
#17
Melting Slicks
ive posted much on the subject, currently have the summit 160 and is operating normally, but am keeping a watchful eye for what happened to my lingenfelter version
#18
Drifting
I was running a 170 deg Summit T-stat after having 2 Lingenfelter T-stats fail (160 & 170). The Summit T-stat lasted for about 6 months and just recently failed. It ultimately had the same issue as the 2 Lingenfelter ones, a cut gasket. Note... I was likely the first person to file down the spring ends, which did help the second LF one last a month longer than the first.
I just installed a 180 deg. Summit T-stat. Hope it lasts until I can go to FL to pick up the one I modified like MightyMouse. Wish I had just left it in place instead of going Summit. Thinking the issue is also due to the way the spring pushes and seats the T-stat when it closes. Since the stock T-stat has it's seating gasket pressed between 2 layers of metal, it can't fail because of the seat.
Other than the cost (under $30.) I can change out my T-stat in about 20 minutes, so I'm still experimenting.....
If your engine goes into "Limp Mode" where the Temp gauge goes to "0", A/C quits, and radiator fans run continuously, your aftermarket T-stat has failed. To re-set, one either has to clear the codes with a tool, or disconnect the battery for a second or 2. Pain in the A.. when you're on the HWY. Keep a 10 mm wrench handy if you go aftermarket T-stat,just in case, so you can disconnect the battery if necessary!
I just installed a 180 deg. Summit T-stat. Hope it lasts until I can go to FL to pick up the one I modified like MightyMouse. Wish I had just left it in place instead of going Summit. Thinking the issue is also due to the way the spring pushes and seats the T-stat when it closes. Since the stock T-stat has it's seating gasket pressed between 2 layers of metal, it can't fail because of the seat.
Other than the cost (under $30.) I can change out my T-stat in about 20 minutes, so I'm still experimenting.....
If your engine goes into "Limp Mode" where the Temp gauge goes to "0", A/C quits, and radiator fans run continuously, your aftermarket T-stat has failed. To re-set, one either has to clear the codes with a tool, or disconnect the battery for a second or 2. Pain in the A.. when you're on the HWY. Keep a 10 mm wrench handy if you go aftermarket T-stat,just in case, so you can disconnect the battery if necessary!
#19
Safety Car
My experience with Summit 160 and IMO other than LMR or Ling will fail and cause CEL, fan run on, etc. Just a matter of time, took about 6 mos for my Summit to fail.