Best Way To Add Power Disc Brakes to 1964 Convertible
#1
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Help! : Best Way To Add Power Disc Brakes to 1964 Convertible ???
I've combed through the forum(s) and many threads on this topic are quite old, and I'm sure some options / offerings have by now changed.
So like the title says: Which way is the best in your opinion to add power disc brakes to a 1964 convertible?
Links to vendor kits also appreciated & helpful. Thank you.
So like the title says: Which way is the best in your opinion to add power disc brakes to a 1964 convertible?
Links to vendor kits also appreciated & helpful. Thank you.
Last edited by TS64; 08-29-2016 at 10:00 AM. Reason: title change
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TS64 (08-29-2016)
#3
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Would it be economically best to source these parts individually or to go with a full set up from one of the popular retailers that claim to use all GM/Delco parts in the kit ? I'm assuming the kits / packages provided basically have these parts in them anyway ?
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TS64 (08-29-2016)
#7
Burning Brakes
Be sure and look into the amount increase in the off set the "kit" creates. I purchased a kit from a major Corvette vendor that used Camaro components I believe. It moved my wheels out 1 3/8" on my stock '63!! Even a slight turn on the wheels caused rubbing on the inner fender lip. I replaced it with a set that had only 3/8" of offset.
Also, be sure and confirm you have adequate back spacing on your wheels if you are running stock steel wheels.
Also, be sure and confirm you have adequate back spacing on your wheels if you are running stock steel wheels.
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TS64 (08-29-2016)
#9
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Be sure and look into the amount increase in the off set the "kit" creates. I purchased a kit from a major Corvette vendor that used Camaro components I believe. It moved my wheels out 1 3/8" on my stock '63!! Even a slight turn on the wheels caused rubbing on the inner fender lip. I replaced it with a set that had only 3/8" of offset.
Also, be sure and confirm you have adequate back spacing on your wheels if you are running stock steel wheels.
Also, be sure and confirm you have adequate back spacing on your wheels if you are running stock steel wheels.
What set did you use that had the 3/8" offset ?
I'm getting many telling me to keep the drums, and I want power brakes with a dual MC. But since I'm going to have to buy all new parts anyway and they were buried in sand since the 80s, if it's a few hundred more to get the disc conversions / parts oh well that's not so bad.
Getting those parts and then all of a sudden realizing I have to buy rims or send them back is certainly a PITA I'd like to avoid.
#10
Race Director
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Location: Inverness FL
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St. Jude Donor '07
I'm trying to get away with keeping the Ansen Sprint mags on there for now.
What set did you use that had the 3/8" offset ?
I'm getting many telling me to keep the drums, and I want power brakes with a dual MC. But since I'm going to have to buy all new parts anyway and they were buried in sand since the 80s, if it's a few hundred more to get the disc conversions / parts oh well that's not so bad.
Getting those parts and then all of a sudden realizing I have to buy rims or send them back is certainly a PITA I'd like to avoid.
What set did you use that had the 3/8" offset ?
I'm getting many telling me to keep the drums, and I want power brakes with a dual MC. But since I'm going to have to buy all new parts anyway and they were buried in sand since the 80s, if it's a few hundred more to get the disc conversions / parts oh well that's not so bad.
Getting those parts and then all of a sudden realizing I have to buy rims or send them back is certainly a PITA I'd like to avoid.
Bill
#11
Burning Brakes
I'm trying to get away with keeping the Ansen Sprint mags on there for now.
What set did you use that had the 3/8" offset ?
I'm getting many telling me to keep the drums, and I want power brakes with a dual MC. But since I'm going to have to buy all new parts anyway and they were buried in sand since the 80s, if it's a few hundred more to get the disc conversions / parts oh well that's not so bad.
Getting those parts and then all of a sudden realizing I have to buy rims or send them back is certainly a PITA I'd like to avoid.
What set did you use that had the 3/8" offset ?
I'm getting many telling me to keep the drums, and I want power brakes with a dual MC. But since I'm going to have to buy all new parts anyway and they were buried in sand since the 80s, if it's a few hundred more to get the disc conversions / parts oh well that's not so bad.
Getting those parts and then all of a sudden realizing I have to buy rims or send them back is certainly a PITA I'd like to avoid.
I have the bolt on knockoffs and now believe I could have used C3 components as suggested above. I believe I would have preferred the stock 4 piston stick caliper system. I did not get a booster only the dual master.
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TS64 (08-29-2016)
#12
Melting Slicks
NOTE these issues with the conversion:
1) make sure your wheels clear the calipers.
2) Dual master with Power Booster requires a cut out in your hood to clear.
3) Parking brake. The 63 parking brake will not work. Not sure about the 64.
4) Unless replacing all of the hard brake lines, you will need to adapt the single line to the dual master. This may require several adapters/fittings and distribution blocks.
5) The Stock Gm parts will move the 63/64 wheels out about 3/4". (This is the same track as the 65" cars)
6) you can get some "kits" that keep the wheels where they are but these are not factory parts.
7) Its hardly worth the time and money for the end result.
8) after replacing trailing arms, spindles, etc. you will need an alignment.
1) make sure your wheels clear the calipers.
2) Dual master with Power Booster requires a cut out in your hood to clear.
3) Parking brake. The 63 parking brake will not work. Not sure about the 64.
4) Unless replacing all of the hard brake lines, you will need to adapt the single line to the dual master. This may require several adapters/fittings and distribution blocks.
5) The Stock Gm parts will move the 63/64 wheels out about 3/4". (This is the same track as the 65" cars)
6) you can get some "kits" that keep the wheels where they are but these are not factory parts.
7) Its hardly worth the time and money for the end result.
8) after replacing trailing arms, spindles, etc. you will need an alignment.
Last edited by DucatiDon; 08-29-2016 at 03:38 PM.
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TS64 (08-29-2016)
#13
Brakes
NOTE these issues with the conversion:
1) make sure your wheels clear the calipers.
2) Dual master with Power Booster requires a cut out in your hood to clear.
3) Parking brake. The 63 parking brake will not work. Not sure about the 64.
4) Unless replacing all of the hard brake lines, you will need to adapt the single line to the dual master. This may require several adapters/fittings and distribution blocks.
5) The Stock Gm parts will move the 63/64 wheels out about 3/4". (This is the same track as the 65" cars)
6) you can get some "kits" that keep the wheels where they are but these are not factory parts.
7) Its hardly worth the time and money for the end result.
8) after replacing trailing arms, spindles, etc. you will need an alignment.
1) make sure your wheels clear the calipers.
2) Dual master with Power Booster requires a cut out in your hood to clear.
3) Parking brake. The 63 parking brake will not work. Not sure about the 64.
4) Unless replacing all of the hard brake lines, you will need to adapt the single line to the dual master. This may require several adapters/fittings and distribution blocks.
5) The Stock Gm parts will move the 63/64 wheels out about 3/4". (This is the same track as the 65" cars)
6) you can get some "kits" that keep the wheels where they are but these are not factory parts.
7) Its hardly worth the time and money for the end result.
8) after replacing trailing arms, spindles, etc. you will need an alignment.
thanks for any thoughts
#14
If you can find the parts, going with a 70+ setup seems like a good idea.
I used this kit as a basis for mine and converted front only to disc, I am really happy with the results :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1964-19...-/181726210951
Couple of comments though :
1) I changed all the cheap bearings that come with it to Timken
2) I ended up replacing the calipers with Wilwood D52's
It would be ideal if you could buy the hubs, brackets, hoses and hardware as a kit from seller and then choose your rotor/caliper.
I used a generic GM Disc/Drum master and PV and a dual 7" booster. I did add a 10lb residual valve for the rear, I am not sure that was 100% necessary but it all works very well.
I used this kit as a basis for mine and converted front only to disc, I am really happy with the results :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1964-19...-/181726210951
Couple of comments though :
1) I changed all the cheap bearings that come with it to Timken
2) I ended up replacing the calipers with Wilwood D52's
It would be ideal if you could buy the hubs, brackets, hoses and hardware as a kit from seller and then choose your rotor/caliper.
I used a generic GM Disc/Drum master and PV and a dual 7" booster. I did add a 10lb residual valve for the rear, I am not sure that was 100% necessary but it all works very well.
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TS64 (08-29-2016)
#15
Safety Car
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Location: Sarver Pa
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2021 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I wouldn't bother with the rear disc setup, just do the front. I did my 60 that way and it is sooo much better ! Again you can do the front and do the rears at a later date if desired. I still recommend the c-3 stuff.
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TS64 (08-29-2016)
#16
If you can find the parts, going with a 70+ setup seems like a good idea.
I used this kit as a basis for mine and converted front only to disc, I am really happy with the results :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1964-19...-/181726210951
Couple of comments though :
1) I changed all the cheap bearings that come with it to Timken
2) I ended up replacing the calipers with Wilwood D52's
It would be ideal if you could buy the hubs, brackets, hoses and hardware as a kit from seller and then choose your rotor/caliper.
I used a generic GM Disc/Drum master and PV and a dual 7" booster. I did add a 10lb residual valve for the rear, I am not sure that was 100% necessary but it all works very well.
I used this kit as a basis for mine and converted front only to disc, I am really happy with the results :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1964-19...-/181726210951
Couple of comments though :
1) I changed all the cheap bearings that come with it to Timken
2) I ended up replacing the calipers with Wilwood D52's
It would be ideal if you could buy the hubs, brackets, hoses and hardware as a kit from seller and then choose your rotor/caliper.
I used a generic GM Disc/Drum master and PV and a dual 7" booster. I did add a 10lb residual valve for the rear, I am not sure that was 100% necessary but it all works very well.
#18
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
From the research I've been doing many prefer them as they are 100% GM parts and proven and compatible with the older corvettes (to a point), but also because if you can find someone parting out a c3 corvette you can buy an entire set up on the cheap depending on condition.
I've reached out to a couple people parting out c3's here in FLA and depending on pricing will be making my decision. The zero offset with the later addition of the Wilwood calipers seems like a pretty solid move to me, price wise and upgrade wise. But there's a lot of options available, and I'd personally only prefer to do this once for the front.
I've reached out to a couple people parting out c3's here in FLA and depending on pricing will be making my decision. The zero offset with the later addition of the Wilwood calipers seems like a pretty solid move to me, price wise and upgrade wise. But there's a lot of options available, and I'd personally only prefer to do this once for the front.
#20
Drifting
I've combed through the forum(s) and many threads on this topic are quite old, and I'm sure some options / offerings have by now changed.
So like the title says: Which way is the best in your opinion to add power disc brakes to a 1964 convertible?
Links to vendor kits also appreciated & helpful. Thank you.
So like the title says: Which way is the best in your opinion to add power disc brakes to a 1964 convertible?
Links to vendor kits also appreciated & helpful. Thank you.
I think it is important to distinguish between your desire for power brakes and your desire for disc brakes.
This might seem like heresy to say, but it is my impression that there is *no advantage* of disc brakes over drum brakes for ordinary street driving. I believe that drum brakes will stop a C2 Corvette just as fast as disc brakes for a single panic stop.
The advantage of disc brakes is reduced heat fade for *repeated* panic stops or for racing on a track where you have to brake as you enter each turn.
So, if all you want is better braking for normal street driving, just add a power brake booster and make sure your drum brake system is in good operationg condition. I think the benefits of disc brakes are mostly just related to fade resistance from repeated hard braking such as racing.