54greg

Oh yeah it's has a real nice rear main seal leak.

Thoughts?

claysmoker

Unless you have a written warranty you are probably SOL. Are you sure it's a hydraulic lifter issue and not cam lobe gone flat? Did the builder do the initial run in on the engine? Is it rear main or pan gasket?

Last question, who's the builder that won't stand behind his work?

54greg

Not yet sure if it's a cam issue. No another mechanic did initial startup. And it appears to be the rear main not the pan, valve covers, distributor etc.

If he doesn't make go real soon I'll be warning people.

claysmoker

Where are you located?

ILBMF

If you have 13 miles on it and both problems have developed I would insist he get on it immediately.

54greg

Cal

54greg

That's what I'm thinking

Boyan

NCRS does not rebuild engines and has nothing to do with the problems you are experiencing. Your issue is like any other car repair problem, you paid for a service and they need to fix it if its not right. If you are not able to get a diagnosis yourself, have another shop diagnose it, then demand it be fixed. If its not, you will have to sue them.

If you need someone to fix it, Jeff Reade in Culver city is excellent, American Motoring Memories.

warrenmj

The problem I see is you had one guy do the rebuild and another do the startup. They are going to point fingers at each other as to who caused the problem.

cv67

x2 on suspicion of a bad lobe
13 mi it needs to be fixed, hope it wasnt a ring/bearing/paint job using old cams etc. Even if it was a lifter its on him with that few of mi think youd be oK in small claims, its fast cheap and easy btdt no its not hard to collect either

If he doesnt want to fix it get the problem diagnosed, estimates for repair in writing and a registered letter ie opportunity for him to make right proceed from there.

jim lockwood

What year 265, Greg? '55 and '56 265s require a special groove or flat or something be machined into the rear-most cam journal (not clear on the details.... only that something is needed to ensure adequate oiling). I can't help wondering if the engine builder was aware of this.

Jim

karkrafter

Yeah, that cam is going to be flat. Builder didn't start it or break it in...I'll be he's not going to warranty it. I wouldn't..

1snake

My bet is it's a bad lifter. Lifters are adjusted on the base circle of the cam. When a cam "goes flat" it's the nose of the lobe that goes away therefore the valve won't open as far as it should but the adjustment should still be okay or very close to it, unless it has worn the complete lobe off the cam and is wearing into the core of the shaft itself which I've never seen (and I've replaced many flat cams in mid 70's Chevy's when it was a very common problem). 13 miles wouldn't be enough run time to do that anyway. Good luck.

Frankie the Fink

I agree with 1snake.... The logic is that its a bad lifter; it can happen even on new ones.

I would give the original rebuilder a shot at fixing it though before I went 'medieval'.

I worked on an ex-airline pilot's '64 a couple of years back and there were FOUR bad lifters in the new set he purchased. I didn't believe it at first until we pulled the intake...

cardo0

Problem with flattened lobes is all that metal goes into the oil/sump and if the filter doesn't catch it all you have particles imbedded in the main and rod bearings or worse scratches on the journals. I'd be afraid to pop a cap and look as I believe the early 265 didn't have an oil filter but used something else - correct me if I'm wrong here. In that case the block needs to be dissembled and tanked again.

Well in defense of the builder if he doesn't break the cam and engine in then it's up to the owner to break in the cam properly and get the rings to seat. But a leaking rear seal is pretty much in- excusable.

Sorry but the truth can be painful unless you want to be lied to.

karkrafter

You can wipe a cam before you ever get it out of the shop...


The cams I've seen go bad...and there have been plenty of them, usually show reciprocal wear [destruction] on the bottom of the lifter as well, doubling the extra 'clearance' In the old days, I tried to adjust out the clearance on a 305 just to get rid of the clatter...that adjustment lasted about a mile before it 'wore' in more clearance.

54greg

Thank you

claysmoker

I'm sure you'll get it sorted out. If not, all the guys on the CF will go over and beat up on your engine builder!

domenic tallarita

You need cam lift to bend a pushrod, so I think it may be the oil problem in one of the posts, but you would have heard more than one lifter make noise. Also may have been adjusted down to far and the valve (lack of hydraulic) hit the piston.

Dom

Greg Hollowaty

I agree with Jim Lockwood - post #11. Your 265 must have a special oiling notch cut into the surface of the rear of the cam shaft. The notch is cut across the cam shaft surface next to the distributor drive gear. Please find out what cam is installed, series number and who manufactured it. All new off the shelf cams are not notched as you 265 requires. Check with you cam manufacture to see if they have supplied the correct part.

Also, you must use the correct oil additive or base oil for your engine. Today's off the shelf oils have had the zinc removed, .so today's oils are formulated for roller type cams.