77 corvette top end
#1
77 corvette top end
All right guys so I'm looking to build the top end on my 77 automatic. meaning heads intake carb cam etc. dose anyone have any info on this. such as do I need to rebuild the bottom block? if so should I go to stroke the motor? or am I better off with going a different route in general? I'm trying to keep it matching numbers as to it is the last year for the flat back window with t tops
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ren80 (03-06-2021)
#3
I have considered that actually. But for buying a stroker engine i might as well buy an ls motor and just get the adapter for my trans to fit it.
#4
Not true at all. Yes you could buy an LS motor for the price of a crate motor, but there is WAY more to the install than getting a trans adapter. Unless you're planning to run an LS with a carb?
#5
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St. Jude Donor '05
wow
77 isnt a collector car put in what you want, can afford and go have fun.
Just about any aftermarket head is better than whats on there now
If you go crate, slightly buy over the power rating of what you want too many times those things come up shorter than advertised;383 is so close in price to a 350 almost doesnt make sense to spend the money and keep the engine the same size..uses the same block so it all bolts together anyway. A mild 383 will outrun a pullout LS1 any day of the week
77 isnt a collector car put in what you want, can afford and go have fun.
Just about any aftermarket head is better than whats on there now
If you go crate, slightly buy over the power rating of what you want too many times those things come up shorter than advertised;383 is so close in price to a 350 almost doesnt make sense to spend the money and keep the engine the same size..uses the same block so it all bolts together anyway. A mild 383 will outrun a pullout LS1 any day of the week
Last edited by cv67; 08-31-2016 at 10:29 AM.
#6
I know it would need a fuel management system as well i was refering to it bolting to the trans.i can get a running ls out of a crashed maro for like 2k
#7
It isnt? I was under the impressio that almost every stingray is a collectors car seeing that its a stingray and not just a corvette?.
Also so if i do put on some bigger heads intake cam etc what power output should i expect??? Which is the purpose of this thread lol
Also so if i do put on some bigger heads intake cam etc what power output should i expect??? Which is the purpose of this thread lol
wow
77 isnt a collector car put in what you want, can afford and go have fun.
Just about any aftermarket head is better than whats on there now
If you go crate, slightly buy over the power rating of what you want too many times those things come up shorter than advertised;383 is so close in price to a 350 almost doesnt make sense to spend the money and keep the engine the same size..uses the same block so it all bolts together anyway. A mild 383 will outrun a pullout LS1 any day of the week
77 isnt a collector car put in what you want, can afford and go have fun.
Just about any aftermarket head is better than whats on there now
If you go crate, slightly buy over the power rating of what you want too many times those things come up shorter than advertised;383 is so close in price to a 350 almost doesnt make sense to spend the money and keep the engine the same size..uses the same block so it all bolts together anyway. A mild 383 will outrun a pullout LS1 any day of the week
#8
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St. Jude Donor '05
It isnt? I was under the impressio that almost every stingray is a collectors car seeing that its a stingray and not just a corvette?.
Buy, park them then take a beating over and over.
What rear end gear, type of trans, driving what kind of goals and budget do you have.
#9
Yeah mine gets driven. Here and there. Budget dont matter. Rear end is a 3.08 i think not 100% its going to be a sunday driver but needs to have a good power range i finally found the compression ratio wich is 8:0:1 ratio i think so its low compressio so bottom end just needs a higher compression ratio kit is 700 bucks for a forged rotating assembly im actually looking to make a street car that can run 10s
#10
All right guys so I'm looking to build the top end on my 77 automatic. meaning heads intake carb cam etc. dose anyone have any info on this. such as do I need to rebuild the bottom block? if so should I go to stroke the motor? or am I better off with going a different route in general?
Here you will find some great information; Dub, Lars, Doorgunner, to name a few, and others with useless information. When I first joined, I had a few respond all my choices (heads, cam, etc) were bad, but no constructive feedback. I placed then on my ignore list.
For what its worth, I went with a top end kit for my 78 L-48 with 53k miles. It was great for street racing, until I blew a bearing. Thought about rebuilding, but ended up getting a 383 stroker. Thought about the LS, but it was too expensive to convert.
Good luck with your build,
Mike
Last edited by hpxt; 09-01-2016 at 02:05 AM.
#11
Thanks appreciate the input!!!
Welcome to the forum!
Here you will find some great information; Dub, Lars, Tailgunner, to name a few, and others with useless information. When I first joined, I had a few respond all my choices (heads, cam, etc) were bad, but no constructive feedback. I placed then on my ignore list.
For what its worth, I went with a top end kit for my 78 L-48 with 53k miles. It was great for street racing, until I blew a bearing. Thought about rebuilding, but ended up getting a 383 stroker. Thought about the LS, but it was too expensive to convert.
Good luck with your build,
Mike
Here you will find some great information; Dub, Lars, Tailgunner, to name a few, and others with useless information. When I first joined, I had a few respond all my choices (heads, cam, etc) were bad, but no constructive feedback. I placed then on my ignore list.
For what its worth, I went with a top end kit for my 78 L-48 with 53k miles. It was great for street racing, until I blew a bearing. Thought about rebuilding, but ended up getting a 383 stroker. Thought about the LS, but it was too expensive to convert.
Good luck with your build,
Mike
#12
Yeah mine gets driven. Here and there. Budget dont matter. Rear end is a 3.08 i think not 100% its going to be a sunday driver but needs to have a good power range i finally found the compression ratio wich is 8:0:1 ratio i think so its low compressio so bottom end just needs a higher compression ratio kit is 700 bucks for a forged rotating assembly im actually looking to make a street car that can run 10s
Making a 77 Vette run 10's is going to require a lot more than motor work. If "budget don't matter" as you say, then by all means do an LS swap. But do some research first. I strongly considered an LS swap before doing my motor build, but after you add up all the nickel and dime things (not to mention the amount of labor and fabrication work) the LS is far from a cheap way to horsepower).
You're also going to need to upgrade all of your suspension, and possibly offset trailing arms so you can fit a bigger tire in the rear to put down the power required to run a 10 second pass.
On top of that, the stock diff and transmission won't last long at the power levels you're going to need (500+hp) to get that heavy of a car to launch hard enough to make it into the 10's. I'd look into Tom's Diff's (he's well regarded on the forum for making strong diffs and half shafts for high-horsepower cars).
All told, you're talking about an easy $10k and probably quite a bit more, and that's if you do all the labor yourself.
Not trying to kill your idea, just being realistic!
Now if all this car is is a fun street car, you'd be much better off building a nice 350hp motor with good torque. Heads, cam, intake, headers, dual exhaust and you're there.
#13
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St. Jude Donor '05
Great way to driveable 10s right here great bang for the buck, builds a nice mill. Good rep!
http://www.vortecpro454.com/
http://www.vortecpro454.com/
#14
Yeah i was thinking it would be about 10k hp dosent come cheap. Thanks!!
Making a 77 Vette run 10's is going to require a lot more than motor work. If "budget don't matter" as you say, then by all means do an LS swap. But do some research first. I strongly considered an LS swap before doing my motor build, but after you add up all the nickel and dime things (not to mention the amount of labor and fabrication work) the LS is far from a cheap way to horsepower).
You're also going to need to upgrade all of your suspension, and possibly offset trailing arms so you can fit a bigger tire in the rear to put down the power required to run a 10 second pass.
On top of that, the stock diff and transmission won't last long at the power levels you're going to need (500+hp) to get that heavy of a car to launch hard enough to make it into the 10's. I'd look into Tom's Diff's (he's well regarded on the forum for making strong diffs and half shafts for high-horsepower cars).
All told, you're talking about an easy $10k and probably quite a bit more, and that's if you do all the labor yourself.
Not trying to kill your idea, just being realistic!
Now if all this car is is a fun street car, you'd be much better off building a nice 350hp motor with good torque. Heads, cam, intake, headers, dual exhaust and you're there.
You're also going to need to upgrade all of your suspension, and possibly offset trailing arms so you can fit a bigger tire in the rear to put down the power required to run a 10 second pass.
On top of that, the stock diff and transmission won't last long at the power levels you're going to need (500+hp) to get that heavy of a car to launch hard enough to make it into the 10's. I'd look into Tom's Diff's (he's well regarded on the forum for making strong diffs and half shafts for high-horsepower cars).
All told, you're talking about an easy $10k and probably quite a bit more, and that's if you do all the labor yourself.
Not trying to kill your idea, just being realistic!
Now if all this car is is a fun street car, you'd be much better off building a nice 350hp motor with good torque. Heads, cam, intake, headers, dual exhaust and you're there.