number3

driving home the other night and lights were going brite and then dimming, look down at the gauge and its spiking all the way over to positive and then back to zero , does this for awhile then stops and starts all over again . If it is the regulator can i delete it and get an alt with built in regulator ? How can i tell if my alt has a built in regulator ? thanks

leif.anderson93

First off, let's start by finding out what year car we're talking about here. Identifying an internally regulated alternator is easy. A picture is always good, as well.

jasonsamara

Look for the regulator on the inner fender. I had a problem with mine not charging on my 60. The alternator was a Frankenstein and made up of different parts. Now I know I should have a generator instead but with a nom car I just went and bought a 1 wire alternator and things have been good for the past year.

Frankie the Fink

Were the lights dimming or going completely out ?

There is a thermal relay in the headlight switch that will cause the lights to strobe if an overcurrent condition is detected. Its a safety feature to forestall electrical fires but still give some light so you can navigate off the road.

number3

just dimming looked like they were rapidly going from dim to bright in conjunction with the gauge spiking and going back to zero. its a 65 corvette convertible i replaced the wiring harness and regulator after the motor was rebuilt this winter. Got the parts from lectric limited i believe from ecklers was working fine up until about a month ago didnt realy notice the problem until i was night driving and saw the lights acting up .

leif.anderson93

You have what appears to be an original style, externally regulated alternator.

ragtop00

It's clear to see that you have a lack of dirt on your engine for the charging system to work properly. Beautiful enging box... good luck with your problem!
Mike

number3

ok so what do you think is the problem alternator or voltage regulator ?

Gary's '66

Definitely the regulator is causing the lights to "pulsate". Had the same thing until I switched to a VR-715 solid state unit.

Not usually an issue and, fairly common with a mechanical regulator but, I'd check the voltage output to the battery anyway just to be on the safe side.

You mentioned having replaced the regulator. The "new" ones are absolute junk!!! I went through 3 before going with the solid state unit.

IMO, the VR-715 is a HUGE improvement over the mechanical unit (steady feed with no pulsation) and, you can even change covers to make it look stock.

Gary

number3

thanks gary , where do i get one of those ?

leif.anderson93

Autozone stocks them under their Duralast brand VR715. Most all auto part stores carry a facsimile.
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...or/130005_0_0/

number3

ok guys thanks for all your help !

Frankie the Fink

The Wells VR-715 is available almost anywhere, about $28 and you can put your original V/R cap on it so it doesn't look so out of place...

Chuck Gongloff

Before you start throwing money at this....

Most auto parts stores can run your alternator and regulator and check them for function.

If one is bad, they can easily figure it out.

I'd try to find an "old time" parts store or maybe even an auto electric store. Bring both items in with you. (alternator and regulator)

I still wouldn't discount Frank's theory about the thermal breaker in the HL switch either.

Chuck

number3

although i agree with ya , at this point its probably the cheapest thing i could do , That lectric limited stuff that ecklers sells is junk ,i bought 2 new front prk lt sockets and the contact patch inside the socket spun around when i put a lamp in took me a couple hours to figure that one out before i took them out and replaced them ! Crapola fo sho

Frankie the Fink

Most Autozones and the like can load test your alternator (and battery for that matter). Not much downside to picking up a Wells VR-715 though. Something you can throw in your glove box and it might just get you home one night if the old mechanical V/R gets wonky on ya...

number3

Thanks frankie , im picking one up tomorrow and puttin her in and maybe stick one in the glovie as well

Gary's '66

Chuck,

With all due respect, my guess is that you haven't purchased a new mechanical aftermarket regulator from your local FLAPS for quite some time 'cause if you had, you'd know that they aren't worth the powder to blow 'em to hell!

Gary

JMG2

the original question about deleting the regulator hasn't been answered-- yes, you can "delete" the regulator-- either jumper the inputs (there are many threads on here on which ones), or buy a plug-in connector that bypasses it, then just drop in any standard alternator.
it's a very easy swap.. I just bought the equipment and nice chrome powermaster alternator, and plan on dropping it in.

But if cost is an issue, by all means go with the regulator. your alt is likely fine, and will likely continue to perform fine. .

number3

where can those plug in kits be had ?