Corrosion on Knife Switch Battery Cutoff
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Corrosion on Knife Switch Battery Cutoff
I've been using the Wirth battery cutoff switch that a number of folks here seem to like for about a year. In the last week, my left-side headlight pod, which seems to have more friction when trying to open than does the right side, won't open. I've also noticed that the battery cutoff switch is a little finicky about making contact when close it. I saw some green corrosion on the switch, per the attached photo.
I removed the switch and reconnected the negative cable directly to the battery post, and of course that solved my headlight pod problem, so clearly the switch (and, I ASSUME the corrosion on it) were the problem. I'm a little surprised because the starter, which I assumed would be the biggest hurdle for an electrical system with excessive resistance, was cranking OK.
So is there a way to prevent this corrosion? Or do switch users have to clean the contacts periodically with sandpaper or an emery board?
I removed the switch and reconnected the negative cable directly to the battery post, and of course that solved my headlight pod problem, so clearly the switch (and, I ASSUME the corrosion on it) were the problem. I'm a little surprised because the starter, which I assumed would be the biggest hurdle for an electrical system with excessive resistance, was cranking OK.
So is there a way to prevent this corrosion? Or do switch users have to clean the contacts periodically with sandpaper or an emery board?
#2
Team Owner
I'd put a little of that grease you have on the threads of the cable end bolt on the blade contacts as well.
#3
Le Mans Master
#4
Team Owner
#6
Le Mans Master
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Wheel bearing grease, petrol jelly or something on the shelf at PepBoys helps but you have to recoat the entire terminal every time you refill the batt - at least once a year. On the switch you gonna need to brush the contact surfaces inside the switch. Things get messy fast. I've tried the spray on cleaner then the spray on terminal coating and now my Dodge truck w/2 batts has paint removed spots on both fenders.
I guess what I'm saying is clean carefully once and reapply coatings annually.
I guess what I'm saying is clean carefully once and reapply coatings annually.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I knew the **** vs. switch debate would come up.
#9
Le Mans Master
This wouldn't be the Corvette Forum we all love if it didn't.
#10
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I'd sprinkle a little water and baking soda on it.....let it work and brush it off. Rinse with water, dry. Then use some dialectic grease on all the surfaces to inhibit corrosion. Switch should go on the negative side to get less acid corrosion.
All kinds of brands......all good.
All kinds of brands......all good.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Kerrmudgeon;1592964689]I'd sprinkle a little water and baking soda on it.....let it work and brush it off. Rinse with water, dry. Then use some dialectic grease on all the surfaces to inhibit corrosion. Switch should go on the negative side to get less acid corrosion.
All kinds of brands......all good.
Thanks for the cleaning tips. Switch was (and if reinstalled, will be) on the negative post. I can understand why one would use some kind of goop that covers and clings to the surfaces.
All kinds of brands......all good.
Thanks for the cleaning tips. Switch was (and if reinstalled, will be) on the negative post. I can understand why one would use some kind of goop that covers and clings to the surfaces.
Last edited by SI67; 08-31-2016 at 07:28 PM.
#12
Neg side is correct and dielectric grease is fine or any grease for that matter. The corrosion can't happen unless oxygen gets to the metal surface which is why grease works well.