Thoughts on purchase and some issues
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Thoughts on purchase and some issues
Ok folks, I have a chance to buy a real nice '04 Comm. Edition Convertible. It is Auto. (prefer stick), super clean, newer tires and 26K miles. We took it in a work and sent it to our wholesale lot where we will auction (due to age only). With taxes, etc. I can get it out the door for just under $18K.
They do a quick safety inspection only (ball joints, brakes, lights, etc.) prior to purchase. Was able to get under the car while on rack though. Unfortunately a lot of oil saturated around front pan and surrounding area. Also a lot of oil buildup and oil around rear diff. which is running down enough that it looks like it will drip every now and then.
At this price I didn't want to throw major bucks into repairs and am concerned that, for how well the PO took care of car, the leaks weren't addressed or that he sold car to us because of cost to repair. I also don't have the time for doing any repairs myself so I would have to farm out.
I know I am not giving great info. on where leaks are coming from other than mechanic said rear axle seals looked dry and it looked like differential. Based on knowledge of these cars and pricing would it be worth the gamble or pass and wait for another. Need to make decision quickly as they will send to auction soon. It's a beautiful car, but don't want to fall into that trap.
It's the proverbial 'what would you do?' Thanks!
They do a quick safety inspection only (ball joints, brakes, lights, etc.) prior to purchase. Was able to get under the car while on rack though. Unfortunately a lot of oil saturated around front pan and surrounding area. Also a lot of oil buildup and oil around rear diff. which is running down enough that it looks like it will drip every now and then.
At this price I didn't want to throw major bucks into repairs and am concerned that, for how well the PO took care of car, the leaks weren't addressed or that he sold car to us because of cost to repair. I also don't have the time for doing any repairs myself so I would have to farm out.
I know I am not giving great info. on where leaks are coming from other than mechanic said rear axle seals looked dry and it looked like differential. Based on knowledge of these cars and pricing would it be worth the gamble or pass and wait for another. Need to make decision quickly as they will send to auction soon. It's a beautiful car, but don't want to fall into that trap.
It's the proverbial 'what would you do?' Thanks!
#2
Drifting
My opinion:
1. If you want stick, get stick. The auto is not the same.
2. 26k miles in 12 years is not quite worryingly low, but if it's been garage queened for years, it's going to need work to fix basic crap that doesn't really need fixing on a car that's been driven. How are all the rubber bits (incl. tires) and the fluids? I've seen cars on this forum sold with original tires (no joke), original fluids, etc.
3. If there's enough oil buildup on the diff and oil pan that you think it might be leaking, that is going to be a not very fun repair. Even just replacing seals costs serious money if you pay for the work to be done.
I'd rather buy a car with two or three times the miles for $4k less that's in actual good condition and is being driven regularly with little to no problems.
1. If you want stick, get stick. The auto is not the same.
2. 26k miles in 12 years is not quite worryingly low, but if it's been garage queened for years, it's going to need work to fix basic crap that doesn't really need fixing on a car that's been driven. How are all the rubber bits (incl. tires) and the fluids? I've seen cars on this forum sold with original tires (no joke), original fluids, etc.
3. If there's enough oil buildup on the diff and oil pan that you think it might be leaking, that is going to be a not very fun repair. Even just replacing seals costs serious money if you pay for the work to be done.
I'd rather buy a car with two or three times the miles for $4k less that's in actual good condition and is being driven regularly with little to no problems.
#3
Burning Brakes
I gave 13500 for my 03,it's not a CE.90000 miles 2 years ago.O leaks,at 18 out the door seems a little hi to me JMO.these things are not cheat to work on if you have to pay someone to do it.hope that helps.
#4
Racer
4theboy, might not be quite what you are looking for in an answer but...
We just bought a 1999 C5 with about 89000 miles on it (or close to it)
I got an inspection done on it recently and it surprisingly isn't leaking or dripping. It is definitely sweating in a few places, and it looks like the power steering pump may be starting to drip but it is near spotless underneath. Even the mechanic was surprised.
We drove a 2000 C5 auto before we bought our 1999 M6 and it was a night and day difference. The auto was quick, but I thought there was something wrong with it as it just didn't seem to have any pull at all. The M6, on the other-hand, pulls really hard. Night and day difference. I was actually looking for an auto but really glad I got an M6. This car with an M6 is a beast. A lot more fun to drive...
Good luck on your purchase. That is a tough decision but the nature of any car this old is that there is "something" that is going to have to be done to it. We were looking at Vette's for over a year and didn't see one used one that didn't need attention of some sort. And we looked at early C5's to 2008's.
Personally I don't like leaks or drips but I bought a 1996 Z28 at the beginning of summer that was a very low miler but sat for several years. The owner never drove it. And it leaks like a sieve but I bought it any ways. I can pick apart at it and slowly get them looked at/repaired. It doesn't affect the reliability or drivability of the car. Just my wallet. I like the car so much it doesn't matter to me.
If I like a car enough, the body and interior are good, I can live with a few minor drips here and there.
We just bought a 1999 C5 with about 89000 miles on it (or close to it)
I got an inspection done on it recently and it surprisingly isn't leaking or dripping. It is definitely sweating in a few places, and it looks like the power steering pump may be starting to drip but it is near spotless underneath. Even the mechanic was surprised.
We drove a 2000 C5 auto before we bought our 1999 M6 and it was a night and day difference. The auto was quick, but I thought there was something wrong with it as it just didn't seem to have any pull at all. The M6, on the other-hand, pulls really hard. Night and day difference. I was actually looking for an auto but really glad I got an M6. This car with an M6 is a beast. A lot more fun to drive...
Good luck on your purchase. That is a tough decision but the nature of any car this old is that there is "something" that is going to have to be done to it. We were looking at Vette's for over a year and didn't see one used one that didn't need attention of some sort. And we looked at early C5's to 2008's.
Personally I don't like leaks or drips but I bought a 1996 Z28 at the beginning of summer that was a very low miler but sat for several years. The owner never drove it. And it leaks like a sieve but I bought it any ways. I can pick apart at it and slowly get them looked at/repaired. It doesn't affect the reliability or drivability of the car. Just my wallet. I like the car so much it doesn't matter to me.
If I like a car enough, the body and interior are good, I can live with a few minor drips here and there.
#5
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Good chance that the leak in the rear of the car is the axle seals on the differential - a common problem on the C5. Not a difficult repair, but will cost a few hundred dollars at a repair shop.
If you really want a manual tranny car, then I would say hold out for that. But regardless of what others say, the automatic equipped car is a blast to drive also and if running properly will definitely set you back in your seat when you stomp on the gas (especially with the 3.15 rear gears). My first two C5s were both manual tranny cars and now my current one is an A4. It is no slouch when accelerating, that's for sure.
My advice is drive the A4 and see what YOU think. Only you can determine if it is the right car for you. However, if there are a number of leaks on the car, repairs could get expensive and it might be worth it to just pass and find one without the potential repair problems that that one has unless you really get a great deal on it.
If you really want a manual tranny car, then I would say hold out for that. But regardless of what others say, the automatic equipped car is a blast to drive also and if running properly will definitely set you back in your seat when you stomp on the gas (especially with the 3.15 rear gears). My first two C5s were both manual tranny cars and now my current one is an A4. It is no slouch when accelerating, that's for sure.
My advice is drive the A4 and see what YOU think. Only you can determine if it is the right car for you. However, if there are a number of leaks on the car, repairs could get expensive and it might be worth it to just pass and find one without the potential repair problems that that one has unless you really get a great deal on it.
#7
Racer
I found the 2000 A4 I drove completely opposite. When you stomped on it, it seemed to go fairly well. But my initial impression was that there was something wrong with the car, and there may have well been. It seemed so sluggish to me but I did not dig deep into it and don't know what gears it had etc. It had low mileage on it and ran like a top.
That is the only A4 Vette I had driven so my experience is very limited. But I owned a 2002 A4 Camaro SS and it would have roasted that particular car. *ducks*
#8
I agree with gimp. Don't buy an auto if you really want a manual. Why compromise? These aren't rare cars, there are too many out there for sale to settle on one that isn't what you want.
Shakey
Shakey
#10
Pro
Get one with a MAN Tran, auto is boring.
#11
Le Mans Master
Vetteman Jack, that is interesting to me and I am not disputing what you say.
I found the 2000 A4 I drove completely opposite. When you stomped on it, it seemed to go fairly well. But my initial impression was that there was something wrong with the car, and there may have well been. It seemed so sluggish to me but I did not dig deep into it and don't know what gears it had etc. It had low mileage on it and ran like a top.
That is the only A4 Vette I had driven so my experience is very limited. But I owned a 2002 A4 Camaro SS and it would have roasted that particular car. *ducks*
I found the 2000 A4 I drove completely opposite. When you stomped on it, it seemed to go fairly well. But my initial impression was that there was something wrong with the car, and there may have well been. It seemed so sluggish to me but I did not dig deep into it and don't know what gears it had etc. It had low mileage on it and ran like a top.
That is the only A4 Vette I had driven so my experience is very limited. But I owned a 2002 A4 Camaro SS and it would have roasted that particular car. *ducks*
#12
Melting Slicks
Do yourself a huge favor, decide what you want in your vette and go shopping for that particular car, if you settle on something else you'll probably regret it. On the vette you are looking at, I'm assuming there are no service records(?) and has maintenance issues (leaks), I would pass it by. Unresolved issues (leaks) send up a red flag regarding overall maintenance. Repairs on these cars can get expensive quickly. In my opinion excellent maintenance trumps low mileage just about every time. If you look around and take your time, you will find there are a fair number of super clean C5's out there that have been meticulously maintained by enthusiast types, like the folks on this forum. Being fussy in your buying goes a long way towards increasing the probability of a rewarding ownership experience as opposed to getting into something that is frustrating and expensive to get straightened out. Good luck and best wishes!
#13
Le Mans Master
Figure at minimum $1,500 for immediate expenditure for the things you mentioned to be correctly addressed by a dealer or other repair shop. That may be high on the monetary figure but better to be prepared. If that thought makes you pass on the car that's OK. Better to wait it out for the manual trans car you think you want than be dissatisfied with your purchase of an auto trans car that you beleve you have waaaaay too much invested in.
#15
Hmmm
Well honestly I would pass,if you want to stick get a stick… I have an auto but at the strip and on the street everybody slips in second and I run right by em LOL ...660 HP runs low 11s I wouldn't trade it for nothing I paid 25,000 for it with 12,000 miles , and now I have put another 30 into it with all the bills and crazy little extras but was perfect when I got it for 25 never had an issue not once with anything,Mint condition,never sees rain always garaged so I don't know seems like you are maybe looking for something different… Vettes don't have issues LOL find one that's perfect there's one out there for you!
Last edited by DollysC5; 09-01-2016 at 11:51 AM. Reason: Misspelled
#16
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You will regret not getting a manual transmission. The price is pretty good but I would want the the car leak free.
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the replies so far. Auto. vs Manual aside, I was looking more for the Comm. Edition model 'vert with lower mileage. Everything I have seen around me is still sitting in the $23K - $25K range private or dealer. Figured being $18K with everything including taxes would allow for wiggle room to repair and still be able to recoup some back if I ever needed to sell. However friou makes a very good point about unresolved issues and sending up a red flag regarding other maintenance.
Since it looks like the rear was pretty 'caked' with grime I can assume it has been leaking a while. I will give it one last drive but am almost 85% sure I am looking to pass.
Since it looks like the rear was pretty 'caked' with grime I can assume it has been leaking a while. I will give it one last drive but am almost 85% sure I am looking to pass.