Failing To Put Shifter Fully into Gear Slot
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Failing To Put Shifter Fully into Gear Slot
Brace yourself for possibly the dumbest yet sincere question ever posted. I have a 2000 FRC M6 that I OCCASIONALLY fail to put the shifter fully into gear. When this happens and I let off the clutch, it sounds like shotgun underneath the transmission and jolts the entire car. It's quite embarrassing. Is there a reason this might be happening to me or is it just me not being careful enough? Sometimes I think I'm fully into gear and can't "tell" it's slightly out until I let off the clutch and BAM! Is there a name for this?
Last edited by craig_vette; 09-20-2016 at 03:28 PM.
#2
Melting Slicks
When I first bought my 2003 this happened to me a few times. I think it is just a newbie kind of thing but not sure how long you have been driving your 2000. Not too long after owning the car I put a new clutch in and never had that happen again. I'm not sure if I just got accustomed to the feel of the shifter or it had something to do with my new clutch install.
#4
Melting Slicks
I too have had this happen, mostly in 1st, a few times going to 3rd. Makes a fair "bang" noise. I've learned to take extra care on those gears. I still don't know if it was operator error or that horrible stock shifter. Until I know for sure I'll take responsibility, but an MGW shifter is my next upgrade in the very near future. Take care all!
#5
Melting Slicks
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In my previous 'stick'cars, I never had to fully depress the clutch to switch and engage the gears. Not so with my Vette. Took me awhile to learn but finally did. While learning, it was embarrassing.
#6
I've had that happen in first and reverse a few times. Now I just know to keep slight pressure on the stick as I feather in the clutch. And if I wasn't fully in gear, it *clicks* in with very little effort. Now if that's happening to you a lot while at speed then it might be a sign that your clutch isn't releasing fully.
#8
Race Director
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
stock shifter??... I've never had that happen with my mgw, you can totally tell if it's in gear or not... you might also check the shifter alignment, if it's a hair off in either direction that could cause some failed shifts
#9
Drifting
It will happen on any manual trans vehicle if not placed into gear all the way. If at all possible try not to do it as it is not good for your synchronizers and related components. But yes we have all done it and felt like a goof when it happend.
#10
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '18
The stock "slush box" on these cars are terrible. I put the Hinson shifter in, and it's probably one of my favorite upgrades. It really makes driving an M6 C5 a precise and exciting experience.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 09-21-2016 at 11:50 AM.
#14
Le Mans Master
If you are still using the stock shifter, you might try the modified Hurst shifter assembled by Coreshifters. It has a more positive feel when it full goes into gear and does shorten the throw over stock. This is NOT the Hurst billet shifter.
Had it in my C5, and moved to the C7.
Had it in my C5, and moved to the C7.
#16
Drifting
Prior to purchasing my C5 I had read to a large degree that the stock shifter setup leads a lot to be desired and it's notch-y nature is not something that you can necessarily hurry. I'm fairly short, but I quickly realized the major issue I was having was I wasn't sitting close enough to the wheel and often I wasn't fully depressing the clutch.
I don't think the FRC's have the easy entry/exit option as they have the base seats (again I cannot recall specifically) but that's one of the really awesome things I love about my C5 targa. I don't have to worry about sitting so close because when I exit the car the DIC function for easy entry/exit moves the seat all the way back. When I insert my key I'm pushed into proper position and don't have to deal with fumbling around with the seat position.
I also agree with another point. Try not to rest your right hand on the shifter while driving at any point. I know that takes the "fun" out of a manual transmission but you need to let the shifter jostle around on it's own. Your hand should only be touching the shifter when it's time to shift a gear. Full depressing of the clutch and then shifting into the gear gets it in gear easier, rather than having your hand on the shifter, depressing the clutch, then selecting.
#17
1/4 mile/AutoX
you were reading my mind, stock shifter no idea half the time what gear I was going in or out of (or missing). With the MGW I know instantly what gear !
#18
Tech Contributor
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
A LOT of great recommendations. Here are some concrete things that you should check:
1. Your stock shifter (the lower shift box and upper shift handle) can and do wear out. May be time for an UP-GRADE!
2. The actual shift box on the LS1 MN6 C5 is mounted with TWO small RUBBER isolators on the TORQUE TUBE. These rubber isolators can and frequently deteriorate and cause the shifter to MOVE when you shift. The SHIFT BOX MOVEMENT prevents the shift rod that connects the shifter to the transmission from fully engaging and POOF. Tt pops out of gear because it cant move enough to properly engage the gear..
SHIFT the gear and look for any shift box/shifter lost motion! There should be little to NONE for proper shifter operation.
3. There is a shifter alignment procedure that should be performed. NOTE, IF,,, the rubber bushings are worn, this alignment will NEVER stay properly adjusted!!!
The FOUR fasteners that connect the shifter rod/ball to the shift box can and do sometimes come loose and cause this very issue. Make sure that the four fasteners are properly tightened to the correct INCH/POUND value!
ALL IN ALL,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The absolute BEST recommendation that we can give you is GET RID of that POS stock shifter and install a HINDSON, MGW or Kirban aftermarket shifter.
You will be AMAZED at the precise and crisp shifts that a good aftermarket shifter will give you. Its one of those OMG moments the first ride! YEP,, TRUST US!
Some other things that you should look at. Have you ever changed the CLUTCH FLUID??????? If not, its going to be NASTY/BLACK/THICK and most likely LOW OUT OF SPEC! Take a look at that too!!
Bill
1. Your stock shifter (the lower shift box and upper shift handle) can and do wear out. May be time for an UP-GRADE!
2. The actual shift box on the LS1 MN6 C5 is mounted with TWO small RUBBER isolators on the TORQUE TUBE. These rubber isolators can and frequently deteriorate and cause the shifter to MOVE when you shift. The SHIFT BOX MOVEMENT prevents the shift rod that connects the shifter to the transmission from fully engaging and POOF. Tt pops out of gear because it cant move enough to properly engage the gear..
SHIFT the gear and look for any shift box/shifter lost motion! There should be little to NONE for proper shifter operation.
3. There is a shifter alignment procedure that should be performed. NOTE, IF,,, the rubber bushings are worn, this alignment will NEVER stay properly adjusted!!!
The FOUR fasteners that connect the shifter rod/ball to the shift box can and do sometimes come loose and cause this very issue. Make sure that the four fasteners are properly tightened to the correct INCH/POUND value!
ALL IN ALL,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The absolute BEST recommendation that we can give you is GET RID of that POS stock shifter and install a HINDSON, MGW or Kirban aftermarket shifter.
You will be AMAZED at the precise and crisp shifts that a good aftermarket shifter will give you. Its one of those OMG moments the first ride! YEP,, TRUST US!
Some other things that you should look at. Have you ever changed the CLUTCH FLUID??????? If not, its going to be NASTY/BLACK/THICK and most likely LOW OUT OF SPEC! Take a look at that too!!
Bill
#19
Melting Slicks
I am running the OEM shifter assembly, tightened up, bolted down hard and with a shortened stock lever. Absolutely no doubt what gear I am slotting into. The OEM shifter assembly is NOT a POS - I have had this car from new and when new it was tight and positive - and it is again after some pretty basic basic maintenance. No need to spend $$$ on a replacement shift assembly - my total "fix" cost was about $50 - including a new Hurst shift ****, the 9/16x18 die to recut the threads, a jug of trans fluid, plus a few hours work on the bench dismantling and tightening up the shifter box.
Last edited by jackthelad; 10-26-2016 at 02:04 PM.
#20
Le Mans Master
If you are still using the stock shifter, you might try the modified Hurst shifter assembled by Coreshifters. It has a more positive feel when it full goes into gear and does shorten the throw over stock. This is NOT the Hurst billet shifter.
Had it in my C5, and moved to the C7.
Had it in my C5, and moved to the C7.