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I've located the exact same lights the C5R's used, not concerned with mounting really. My questions are about wiring. I'd like to use a factory fog switch, so, how will I need to wire them up? They use a 100w H1 halogen bulb. Relays? I'm sure I'll need them. Wire gauge? Ground points?
I know there was a kit available in the past, but is no longer made. I know it's definitely possible to use these lights. Something different! Something to pay homage to the C5R!
There was a kit like that made by Breathless Performance in Dania, Florida. I just saw it is still listed in Eckler's new catalog.
I saw that kit, but the lights just aren't right. Too small in my opinion. Considering I can have the actual lights used in the C5R, why not? The set up I'm going for will be slightly less expensive also. The kit I was referring to was made by aardvark international.
I do realize I'll be giving up the chance at a nice ready to install kit though...
I just emailed the company you had listed to find a price. I have always wanted the C5R replicas but they are expensive for what you get. These look like the real deal.
Zach
The problem with using the fog light wiring is that the driving lights will shut off when hi-beam is selected. You will need to place them on the hi-beam loop, via a relay and heavy gage wiring/fuse from hot lead. Use the power form the hi-beam loop to activate the relay and a switch for the relay thru the ground wire on the relay to control activation (off/on).
The problem with using the fog light wiring is that the driving lights will shut off when hi-beam is selected. You will need to place them on the hi-beam loop, via a relay and heavy gage wiring/fuse from hot lead. Use the power form the hi-beam loop to activate the relay and a switch for the relay thru the ground wire on the relay to control activation (off/on).
Mark.
Yikes. To make it simpler, I could just install a new switch and wiring for the lights. I'd prefer they operate independently from any other light system. That would be much more straight forward I think.
I just emailed the company you had listed to find a price. I have always wanted the C5R replicas but they are expensive for what you get. These look like the real deal.
Zach
These are the real deal! The same on the C5R. I found them on another site for purchase also. They're the Cibie Oscar SC lights.
I looked at this a while back. The real ones are Cibie Oscars - big lights, normally either wide beam spread or very long range narrow beams (pencil beams) - not fogs. The kit was too large to fit in the standard front plate area, you would have to mod the body to get them in. There was a smaller kit made see:
I looked at this a while back. The real ones are Cibie Oscars - big lights, normally either wide beam spread or very long range narrow beams (pencil beams) - not fogs. The kit was too large to fit in the standard front plate area, you would have to mod the body to get them in. There was a smaller kit made see:
A few years back I sent them an email inquiry and got no response, but the web site still seems to be there.
I called the number on the site two days ago and spoke with someone. The kit is no longer made, they didn't really sell enough apparently. I did find the Oscar SC lights on another site though for $194 each.
The Oscar SC is a 6" light, The Oscar is a 7" light. Measuring the front plate area showed it was ~14 1/4" long. The 6" fits with a little room to spare. According to the guy I spoke with about the kit on that site and some pictures he sent me of the install, to fit the lights they have you still do need to cut into the foam behind the bumper.
dylans, the wiring that I described will allow you to run the lights independently or activate with hi-beam (that way your not fumbling for the switch when driving and dealing with oncoming traffic). You will want to use Relay, Fuse, and independent (control) toggle. The lights are going to draw a hi current load so a heavy gage wiring is going to be need. Check the draw of the lights to gage fuse/relay and wiring, info should be supplied with lights.
dylans, the wiring that I described will allow you to run the lights independently or activate with hi-beam (that way your not fumbling for the switch when driving and dealing with oncoming traffic). You will want to use Relay, Fuse, and independent (control) toggle. The lights are going to draw a hi current load so a heavy gage wiring is going to be need. Check the draw of the lights to gage fuse/relay and wiring, info should be supplied with lights.
Mark.
This will be my first time wiring lights up, so it's all very confusing. I'm up to the task, and eager to learn and do this, but what you describe is like a foreign language to me. Sorry for my ignorance, and thank you for replying!
Tell me if I'm understanding. What you describe would allow me to have high beam and the aux lights on at the same time. When there is oncoming traffic simply turning the high beams off via the factory high beam switch would also turn the aux lights off? And of course just switch to low beam only? The aux lights would also have their own switch to operate independently at any time?
The problem with using the fog light wiring is that the driving lights will shut off when hi-beam is selected. You will need to place them on the hi-beam loop, via a relay and heavy gage wiring/fuse from hot lead. Use the power form the hi-beam loop to activate the relay and a switch for the relay thru the ground wire on the relay to control activation (off/on).
Mark.
Where can I tap into the high beam? At one of the headlights? At a high beam fuse in the fuse box?
I installed E-code fog lights behind the screens. I couldn't find the Oscars you wrote about. Talbot Co. discontinued the kit at least 6 years ago. He said he "might" have lights, but he definitely didn't have the critical part--the frame. It's tight behind the license cover and you'll need a well-thought out frame that'll let you adjust the throw along both axis.
As to the wiring, 12 gauge will do. You'll need a 30 Amp fuse and the relay of course. As I recall, the switch is rated at 25A. Talk to Daniel Stern. (danielsternlighting.com) He will set you down the correct path; he can advise you about the correct relays, wire gauge, fuse, and how to tap for power. Likely he'll suggest directly off the battery posts.
The z06s are all set up powered for a fog light switch. It doesn't matter if you're gonna use cheep Chineee junk or OEM-quality goods. The built-in OEM harness to the switch port (where the OEM dual switch fits) are good enough to withstand your needs. You'll need to find a dual switch--fog light and trunk release combined--the common z06 single-function trunk release is installed in ALL domestic models; those built for overseas export had the dual switch installed and included E-code headlights, not the 27w bling lights.
What all domestic z06's are missing is the wiring from the fog lights themselves to power. You'll need a beef'd fog light harness. The OEM domestic harness intended for US DOT fog lights is not heavy duty enough to withstand your CIBIE power needs. You can build the harness yourself. I paid for a sample to copy with much heavier gauge wire, so you're getting this free. I didn't know jack squat about wiring, soldering and 12v power, but with Daniel Stern, the schematics and help from a former member, Dadaroo (Bless you, Sam) this project proceeded fairly painlessly as far as the wire cutting, connecting and prep went.
There are two guides that both essentially show you how to wire correctly. Search the 'Net for "PIAA 34085 fog light harness instructions.pdf" and an Acrobat Adobe file should be easily found that you can print. It's essentially a graphic picture. The other guide is attached below:
Study those for a while before you talk to Stern so you can converse coherently with him. He is better than ANY CF vendor; he'll tell you the truth about Chineee junk fog lights, he emphasizes building for safety, durability and longevity. Your bias towards CIBIE's shows you're interested in sheer quality, so Stern's the man to talk to because he's rigid and uncompromising when it comes to 12V electrical circuitry.
If you've got an electrician friend who'll help you, here's the OEM Service Manual schematic:
DO NOT REMOVE THE FUSE BOX IN THE ENGINE AND SPLICE INTO THE PURPLE WIRE UNDERNEATH IT FOR 12V POWER. MORE THAN ONE CorvetteForum VENDOR AND SEVERAL DIYers RECOMMEND THIS METHOD for splicing your harness to power. IF YOU HAVE TO TAP THE FOG LIGHT FUSE FOR POWER, USE A 10A FUSE TAP and do it properly. Tapping the purple wire creates a fire hazard; you'd be tapping what is probably a 16-18 gauge wire with a 12 gauge (or minimally, a 14ga) wire and the power draw could be disastrous. Lots of guys do it this way, but that doesn't make it safe. A fuse tap is easy and clean. Sure, 12ga is "overkill" but you want wire that won't ever get brittle from the heat of constant or protracted use. An extra 20-30 cents a foot... why skimp?
Might I be so inquisitive as to the purpose of these fog lights? Is it just for looks? Is Tucson really foggy? Just curious as it appears to be a lot of work. GL with your project and please let us see the final results. Also, take some pics as you go along so that others can see what's required to install.
I installed E-code fog lights behind the screens. I couldn't find the Oscars you wrote about. Talbot Co. discontinued the kit at least 6 years ago. He said he "might" have lights, but he definitely didn't have the critical part--the frame. It's tight behind the license cover and you'll need a well-thought out frame that'll let you adjust the throw along both axis.
As to the wiring, 12 gauge will do. You'll need a 30 Amp fuse and the relay of course. As I recall, the switch is rated at 25A. Talk to Daniel Stern. (danielsternlighting.com) He will set you down the correct path; he can advise you about the correct relays, wire gauge, fuse, and how to tap for power. Likely he'll suggest directly off the battery posts.
The z06s are all set up powered for a fog light switch. It doesn't matter if you're gonna use cheep Chineee junk or OEM-quality goods. The built-in OEM harness to the switch port (where the OEM dual switch fits) are good enough to withstand your needs. You'll need to find a dual switch--fog light and trunk release combined--the common z06 single-function trunk release is installed in ALL domestic models; those built for overseas export had the dual switch installed and included E-code headlights, not the 27w bling lights.
What all domestic z06's are missing is the wiring from the fog lights themselves to power. You'll need a beef'd fog light harness. The OEM domestic harness intended for US DOT fog lights is not heavy duty enough to withstand your CIBIE power needs. You can build the harness yourself. I paid for a sample to copy with much heavier gauge wire, so you're getting this free. I didn't know jack squat about wiring, soldering and 12v power, but with Daniel Stern, the schematics and help from a former member, Dadaroo (Bless you, Sam) this project proceeded fairly painlessly as far as the wire cutting, connecting and prep went.
There are two guides that both essentially show you how to wire correctly. Search the 'Net for "PIAA 34085 fog light harness instructions.pdf" and an Acrobat Adobe file should be easily found that you can print. It's essentially a graphic picture. The other guide is attached below:
Study those for a while before you talk to Stern so you can converse coherently with him. He is better than ANY CF vendor; he'll tell you the truth about Chineee junk fog lights, he emphasizes building for safety, durability and longevity. Your bias towards CIBIE's shows you're interested in sheer quality, so Stern's the man to talk to because he's rigid and uncompromising when it comes to 12V electrical circuitry.
If you've got an electrician friend who'll help you, here's the OEM Service Manual schematic:
DO NOT REMOVE THE FUSE BOX IN THE ENGINE AND SPLICE INTO THE PURPLE WIRE UNDERNEATH IT FOR 12V POWER. MORE THAN ONE CorvetteForum VENDOR AND SEVERAL DIYers RECOMMEND THIS METHOD for splicing your harness to power. IF YOU HAVE TO TAP THE FOG LIGHT FUSE FOR POWER, USE A 10A FUSE TAP and do it properly. Tapping the purple wire creates a fire hazard; you'd be tapping what is probably a 16-18 gauge wire with a 12 gauge (or minimally, a 14ga) wire and the power draw could be disastrous. Lots of guys do it this way, but that doesn't make it safe. A fuse tap is easy and clean. Sure, 12ga is "overkill" but you want wire that won't ever get brittle from the heat of constant or protracted use. An extra 20-30 cents a foot... why skimp?
Good luck.
Thanks for the info and guidance. I purchased the lights from Talbot Co yesterday. He added in the proper mounting brackets, a relay and bulbs. The only part missing from his kit is the backing plate the lights mount to. He said a sheet of aluminum is what he used to use, mounted to the brackets. Seems very straight forward. He is going to send me some wiring diagrams and more photos of installs.
The wiring diagram I drew up was what I understood as how to do it based on how he explained it to me. As far as tapping into the high beam switch he told me some 16 gauge would do, as it's only to signal the relay to power on the cibies' when the high beams are switched on. 12 gauge for power and grounds throughout the rest of the harness. He also recommended a switch in cabin to interrupt the relay ground so I could use the high beams without the cibie lights if I wanted.
I plan on powering through a 20A fuse off of the battery post. Grounding to factory ground points of course.
I think I'll be contacting Daniel Stern as you've suggested for even more input and insight.
Might I be so inquisitive as to the purpose of these fog lights? Is it just for looks? Is Tucson really foggy? Just curious as it appears to be a lot of work. GL with your project and please let us see the final results. Also, take some pics as you go along so that others can see what's required to install.
Not foggy here. It is very dark in many places I drive. And as we all know the head lights are terrible. I thought about doing the E code headlights, but I like this better. Around places where I need more light the high beams aren't adequate. Around town the low beams are fine.
I agree, it is a lot of work, but I love projects like this. I'm more excited to do the work than to have the finished product haha.
I'll keep you all posted here, and take pictures of course.
I think more lights is great looking forward to the finished project. What are you doing about a frame? I was thinking of installing a 8 inch offroad light bar just above/below the license plate.
I think more lights is great looking forward to the finished project. What are you doing about a frame? I was thinking of installing a 8 inch offroad light bar just above/below the license plate.
The mount will be made up of 2 aluminum T's and a 15" aluminum plate. Plate mounts to top of T's. T's mount to the bottom of the front section of the frame. Lights mount into holes cut into the aluminum plate, all centered up of course.
Here's a picture provided to me of what the full kit once was from aardvark international.
I'll have to drill into the frame to mount the T's.
The lights and T's should be shipping soon!
Still need to find some aluminum and someone to cut it for me.
I spoke with Daniel Stern, and he gave his blessing for my wiring plans. Can't wait to get it going!
09-22-2016, 06:20 PM
Fog light install questions
I didn't know jack squat about wiring, soldering and 12v power, but with Daniel Stern, the schematics and help from a former member, Dadaroo (Bless you, Sam) this project proceeded fairly painlessly as far as the wire cutting, connecting and prep went. 
