Strut Brace Fabricated and Installed (At Last)
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Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Killearn Scotland
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Strut Brace Fabricated and Installed (At Last)
Having read so many positive experiences from people on CF installing strut braces across their front suspension towers, I figured it was a mod worth trying.
I was lucky to have some 5mm steel plate in the garage for the brackets.
At work I salvaged a length of 1" O.D. seamless pipe with a 4mm wall thickness, that had been chucked in the scrap metal skip.
So the only thing I had to buy were the heim-joints (although in the UK we call them Rose Joints (Two nations divided by a common language, eh?)).
I got one right-hand thread and one left-hand to make in-situ length adjustment easy.
I have a mechanical fan (I won't judge your electric fan choice if you don't judge my mechanical choice ), so had more things in the engine bay to keep clear of.
In the end, the holes on the brackets for the brace ended up exactly between the mounting bolts for the top arm.
The bolts for the rose-joints are 1/2" UNF, the brackets are threaded to suit, but I also fitted lock nuts to the protruding thread on the underside of the brackets.
When I took the car out for a test drive, I can't honestly say I noticed the same sea-change difference that others have reported, but then I use solid engine mounts which really tightened up the feel of the car when I first installed them.
I reckon the solid mounts will also help to ensure no contact between the fan, the pulleys and the new brace. Although on flexible mounts the motor will generally want to lift which would be away from the bar.
What I did notice was that while fitting the brackets, I had the front jacked up to prevent the upper arms moving inwards as I removed the nuts for bracket installation; when I had the brackets and bar fitted I left the bar length "loose" on the rose-joints, when I lowered the full weight of the car back down, the bar was tight. So there is obviously flex occurring.
I will add, that last winter was a major chassis inspection, clean and paint exercise, so I am 100% certain that the chassis is in good strong condition. This flex seems to be just inherent in the shape and design.
So even though I don't notice any seat-of-the-pants difference, I am very glad I have finally completed this task.
Rose-jointed steering rods and bump steer correction is my next planned task. Maybe this winter
If anyone would like plans or dimensions for the brace or backets, I am happy to oblige.
I was lucky to have some 5mm steel plate in the garage for the brackets.
At work I salvaged a length of 1" O.D. seamless pipe with a 4mm wall thickness, that had been chucked in the scrap metal skip.
So the only thing I had to buy were the heim-joints (although in the UK we call them Rose Joints (Two nations divided by a common language, eh?)).
I got one right-hand thread and one left-hand to make in-situ length adjustment easy.
I have a mechanical fan (I won't judge your electric fan choice if you don't judge my mechanical choice ), so had more things in the engine bay to keep clear of.
In the end, the holes on the brackets for the brace ended up exactly between the mounting bolts for the top arm.
The bolts for the rose-joints are 1/2" UNF, the brackets are threaded to suit, but I also fitted lock nuts to the protruding thread on the underside of the brackets.
When I took the car out for a test drive, I can't honestly say I noticed the same sea-change difference that others have reported, but then I use solid engine mounts which really tightened up the feel of the car when I first installed them.
I reckon the solid mounts will also help to ensure no contact between the fan, the pulleys and the new brace. Although on flexible mounts the motor will generally want to lift which would be away from the bar.
What I did notice was that while fitting the brackets, I had the front jacked up to prevent the upper arms moving inwards as I removed the nuts for bracket installation; when I had the brackets and bar fitted I left the bar length "loose" on the rose-joints, when I lowered the full weight of the car back down, the bar was tight. So there is obviously flex occurring.
I will add, that last winter was a major chassis inspection, clean and paint exercise, so I am 100% certain that the chassis is in good strong condition. This flex seems to be just inherent in the shape and design.
So even though I don't notice any seat-of-the-pants difference, I am very glad I have finally completed this task.
Rose-jointed steering rods and bump steer correction is my next planned task. Maybe this winter
If anyone would like plans or dimensions for the brace or backets, I am happy to oblige.