Jddaddy1

I had my 63 SWC judged in March of this year, lost the full deduction for paint because it is BC/CC and really great. They told me I could get half of it back if I dulled down the door jambs.


I have read a lot about the different suggestions and processes here on the Forum, and it was finally time to take a shot at it.


Here is what I did, and it worked perfectly, and super easy:

• I tried it on my wife's '94 Honda Civic DX! A classic in its own right, she is the original owner. The car paint job is a mess on the outside, but the door jambs were in perfect condition for this test
• Tried this procedure in both cool shade, and direct warm sun. The shade trail is definitely the way to go, much better results.
• I cleaned and dried the original paint in the door jamb. Then masked off a trial section. I did not scuff it with 3000 or anything like that. Turns out did not need to anyway.
• Purchased from the Hobby Lobby on line, I used a can of Tree House Studio Clear Acrylic Matte Coating.
• First I did a complete light coat, let it dry, which only took a few minutes.
• Then I did a more substantial coat, shot from closer to the work, being careful not to use too much to avoid running.
• Let it dry, took the tape away, and Bam! Looks and feels great
• Next Monday, I will be masking off all areas on my SWC that I have to shoot, and going for it. I may experiment again if I should take the tape away BEFORE it dries rather than after.

hope this helps. jd

66jack

Hope you don't 'over-dull' the paint job on your SWC...

Your wifes honda now has a dull spot...

Randy G.

Make sure the paint is compatible and doesn't cause bubbling or blisters before you start shooting it on your Corvette.

OneOfThem

I would highly recommend using Dulling Spray, made by Krylon. You'll achieve the same results and it'll wipe off with a wet towel after your judging.
Dulling Spray has been used in the film industry for decades to put a temporary, matte finish on reflective or glaring objects that 'pop' too much for the cinematographer... especially on items that are rented or part of an expensive filming location... all without permanent damage. It's a great tool to have in the garage.

Jddaddy1

Ok, I will test that out as well. Thanks for jumping in on this... Jd

Chuck Gongloff

Interesting. I was unaware of this product.

Thank you.

Frankie the Fink

I've used it....
Its as much trouble as the other products as far as masking off areas and being judicious in spraying for the right effect. It will work. Truth be told I permanently dulled my jambs, hood edge and hood surround with another product and the effect was a tad better.

The Dulling Spray is akin to the old hair spray trick. Don't mention 'faking it' on the NCRS forum, you'll be accused of cheating or fraud - like I was.

DansYellow66

The Dulling Spray looks like an interesting product but since it semi-dries, wouldn't it be easily detectable by simply dragging a finger across it? Or does it dry fairly firm and take a wet towel or cloth to soften it to wipe off?

Frankie the Fink

I did my test spray out on a piece of scrap metal and cleaned it off with a wet cloth so I can't say about your question with complete certainty.

Since its purpose is to dull down reflective surfaces for photography of items, sometimes VERY expensive items I have to believe it removes fairly easily....and the old "scratching it off with a fingernail" trick would reveal the deception. I may just shoot some on something in the garage with a high sheen and check it out again...

Chuck Gongloff

And that other product was.................................... ?

Redbird

The way I understand the ncrs judging is that the paint should "appear" as the way it came off the assembly line. No one should be scratching your paint.

Frankie the Fink

A Top Secret Mike Coletta product.

I'll have to dig around in the garage and see if I have the spray can still around this morning... I DO know that, if applied lightly, it makes the jambs look damn near exactly like unbuffed lacquer. Those areas blew by regional judging - no questions asked.

I'll try to find the stuff Chuck...

Chuck Gongloff

Just post the name of the product here on CF, Frank.

I'll read it and I promise I won't reveal the secret product to anyone else.

1snake

Then why did you post - "Paint was a 100% deduct before I walked through it again with the team leader and showed them where I had dulled down the door jambs, hood ledge, etc. - then 50% deduct."

You also posted that you used Rustoleum Satin Clear Enamel.

phil2302

Honestly if the judging of door jambs is that important why wouldnt someone just shoot the car with laquer instead of BC/CC to begin with?
BTW way, cheating, fraud, really?? I love restored cars but arent all restorations creating an illusion of newness to begin with? Hope you told them where to stick their prizes.

Frankie the Fink

It was still a 50% deduct as I didn't get the underhood ledge transition from body color to black correct (I don't have a pic) up by the hood hinges....and the overall paint was still considered too shiny.

1snake

I don't consider an initial 100% deduction "blew by regional judging - no questions asked".
Looks like you'll get to do it all over again anyway.

Frankie the Fink

Indeed, that is the case IMO, but you have the 'old guard' that is intransigent. Not everybody is that way and many members helped me out with advice, etc. for judging...

Frankie the Fink

The "dulled down" part did... I could have been more specific...

I'll have to get "psyched up" to campaign the car again...prob do a chapter meet if I DO decide to go at it again. Citrus County or Howie-in-the-Hills, Florida chapter...

Chuck Gongloff

Tough to buy lacquer anywhere in the US anymore. If you can find it, professional shops are prohibited from using it. (EPA, OSHA, etc.) That being said, you can spray it yourself.

In addition, and more importantly IMHO, "modern" lacquer lacks many chemicals present in "old" lacquer, making it less durable. Lead content comes to mind.

Chuck