One wire alternator question.
#1
Melting Slicks
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One wire alternator question.
I have done a search but can't find the answer so;
When installing a 1 wire alternator on my 57 modified car how do I wire the original voltage regulator or do you just terminate the connections?
When installing a 1 wire alternator on my 57 modified car how do I wire the original voltage regulator or do you just terminate the connections?
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St. Jude Donor '07
I believe the one-wire has a built-in regulator. my thought would be to abandon the original regulator and run a wire directly to the battery/battery terminal on starter.
Bill
Bill
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ohiovet (09-27-2016)
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Bruce,
If it were mine, I'd remove the regulator and the short regulator harness entirely. They are not needed. Connect the large red wire, which formerly tied to the regulator, to the alternator output.
Yes, the 1-wire alternator has an internal regulator.
Connected as I suggest and your Ammeter will function as normal.
Jim
If it were mine, I'd remove the regulator and the short regulator harness entirely. They are not needed. Connect the large red wire, which formerly tied to the regulator, to the alternator output.
Yes, the 1-wire alternator has an internal regulator.
Connected as I suggest and your Ammeter will function as normal.
Jim
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ohiovet (09-27-2016)
#4
Team Owner
More than you probably want to know on the topic:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
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ohiovet (09-27-2016)
#5
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Read the above article from Madelectric. Almost all the one-wires can be run as a 2-wire with internal reg. Remove the plastic cover for the two-wire hook-up, get a connector at auto store and follow the madelectric instructions. With only the one wire hookup you can not get the maximum voltage
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ohiovet (09-27-2016)
#6
Safety Car
I put a 1 wire on my 60 a year ago. Someone had already put an alternator on it previously. I determined either the alternator was bad or the external regulator was bad. After we determined my alternator was made up of spare parts it was an easy decision. I have had no issues and all gauges still work.
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ohiovet (09-27-2016)
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Undeniably true. However, that may not be a bad thing.
I am informed by a friend with significant experience in battery operated systems that charging a battery to less than a full charge increases its longevity.
So let's say you lose a few 10s of milli-Volts in that 12 gauge wire from the 1 wire alternator (only when there is high current draw, BTW) and maybe your battery gets slightly less than a full charge. You get longer battery life as a result.
Sounds like a good trade off to me.
Jim
I am informed by a friend with significant experience in battery operated systems that charging a battery to less than a full charge increases its longevity.
So let's say you lose a few 10s of milli-Volts in that 12 gauge wire from the 1 wire alternator (only when there is high current draw, BTW) and maybe your battery gets slightly less than a full charge. You get longer battery life as a result.
Sounds like a good trade off to me.
Jim
#8
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When I had it hooked up as a 1-wire it put out 12.2. volts, when I switched it to a 2-wire it got a full 14.2 volts. HEI units like full voltage. Also, I have the same battery in the car when I first installed it - that was nearly 10 years ago (Optima battery)
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My friend who told me about the inverse relationship between charging Voltage and longevity has a lot of experience installing remote data gathering equipment which is solar powered and battery backed. His stuff just works and that gives what he says a lot of weight.
YMMV, of course.
Jim
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That sounds like there was something not quite right about the 1 wire configuration. It certainly doesn't match my experience. I've got two engines with 1 wire alternators which reliably source in excess of 14 Volts.
#12
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I took the time to read the article, http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml, and it is very interesting.
I still believe I will go with a 1 wire alternator.
Jegs has one that "kicks on or cuts in" at 880 rpm which is a improvement over the older ones which need about 1200 rpm to start.
Thanks to everyone for the great info and opinions.
Bruce B
I still believe I will go with a 1 wire alternator.
Jegs has one that "kicks on or cuts in" at 880 rpm which is a improvement over the older ones which need about 1200 rpm to start.
Thanks to everyone for the great info and opinions.
Bruce B
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St. Jude Donor '07
I REALLY don't understand the fascination with 1-wire alternators, especially if one wants to use 'stock' gauges... on a John Deere tractor, maybe; a corvette, no....
Bill
Bill
Last edited by wmf62; 09-28-2016 at 05:09 AM.
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The way I suggested the 1 wire alt be connected, the stock Ammeter will work as it always did. When I put a 1 wire alt on one of our Grand Sports, I wired it in such that the stock '63 battery gauge would function correctly.
IOW, retaining stock gauges, if that's what one wants to do, is all about the installation and not about whether it's a 1 wire alternator or not.
Or am I missing your point (always possible)?
Jim
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Not following, Bill.
The way I suggested the 1 wire alt be connected, the stock Ammeter will work as it always did. When I put a 1 wire alt on one of our Grand Sports, I wired it in such that the stock '63 battery gauge would function correctly.
IOW, retaining stock gauges, if that's what one wants to do, is all about the installation and not about whether it's a 1 wire alternator or not.
Or am I missing your point (always possible)?
Jim
The way I suggested the 1 wire alt be connected, the stock Ammeter will work as it always did. When I put a 1 wire alt on one of our Grand Sports, I wired it in such that the stock '63 battery gauge would function correctly.
IOW, retaining stock gauges, if that's what one wants to do, is all about the installation and not about whether it's a 1 wire alternator or not.
Or am I missing your point (always possible)?
Jim
no, you didn't miss anything; I just stated it poorly...
MOST folks seem to hook them up with a wire-to-the-battery/starter; so I understand what you said..
what I REALLY meant was, as I said to start with, what is the fascination with 1-wire alternators when a 'standard' alternator is so easy to install/use?
Bill
#16
Pro
Got a question
would the heavy red wire (12 gauge) from ammeter connect to the same place (output) on a 3 wire alternator and allow the gauge to work properly
my car does not have the VR connected to anything
would the heavy red wire (12 gauge) from ammeter connect to the same place (output) on a 3 wire alternator and allow the gauge to work properly
my car does not have the VR connected to anything
Bruce,
If it were mine, I'd remove the regulator and the short regulator harness entirely. They are not needed. Connect the large red wire, which formerly tied to the regulator, to the alternator output.
Yes, the 1-wire alternator has an internal regulator.
Connected as I suggest and your Ammeter will function as normal.
Jim
If it were mine, I'd remove the regulator and the short regulator harness entirely. They are not needed. Connect the large red wire, which formerly tied to the regulator, to the alternator output.
Yes, the 1-wire alternator has an internal regulator.
Connected as I suggest and your Ammeter will function as normal.
Jim