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I have the Eibachs on my '13 GS and although they don't appear to be any larger than the GS bars, they were an improvement in terms of reduced body roll in hard corners and they actually fit better than the stock bars. The stock bars were very close to and used to hit the mufflers sometimes after I installed my Pfadt exhaust system, and no matter how I adjusted the mufflers, they would still bang against the stock rear bar. The Eibach rear bar has a little more curve to it, so it has better clearance and it hasn't hit against the mufflers since.
The quality of the Eibach bars are top notch, IMV, and given that they are priced at like half of what other popular C5/C6 bars are going for, they're damn good bang for the buck. Do a search on here. I'm pretty sure I did a thread about them, with pictures and all.
They will be a marked improvement over your base model anti sway bars.
Take a look at the for sale section on this forum. I picked up a set of LG sway bars and their quiet endlinks for $500 a few months back. Before purchasing the LG's I was looking at purchasing some JOC/AFE sway bar and end links. Here are some pictures comparing the size of the LG bars verse stock Z51 bars.
OP-
Is this a daily driver you want to handle better, or a dedicated track car?
The factory Z51 setup is a great combination for DD/Autocross. You can get the Z51 sways and front spring, the rear spring is almost identical between base/Z51. Used parts are often in excellent condition at good prices.
If you drive on mostly smooth roads, the Bilstein Sport shocks should be tolerable. For bumpier roads, try the Bilstein Heavy Duty (they are actually more of a medium duty, softer than the Sports).
Dano is correct, you need a proper combination of parts. Helter-skelter changes can bite you in the butt.
I went with Johnny O'Connell sway bars front and back, which came complete with much better end links and adjustment, too, so you could refine how stiff the bars were, or set them softer for the street and tighter for track days.
FYI, here is a shot I created with the sizes and comparing looks, too:
Note: I had the rear bar installed before I thought to document what I was doing, which is why it isn't in the shot, but it's diameter is given.
So I was looking to upgrade my sways as well back in April my issue was back end kicking out over bumpy roads. Mine is a base C6 non Z51. I had done a C6 Z06 shock and Z51 sway bar swap on my C5 years ago and made a huge difference in this respect plus it handled like on rails and I was leaning in that direction. I figured for a little more money I could get some decent shocks and better sways so I started researching. There are 5 or 6 of the popular sways, and about as many shocks that you will see folks recommend here. My issue was what combination? Koni's and LG, DRM and Hotckis? You are looking and a lot of combinations and how well do they perform together as well as how predictable the combination would work together. I came across the Johnny Oconnell shock AND sway package.(Google the video of them engineering this package.) And while they are really just the stock Z06 shocks re-valved and DRM or Koni's may be a tad better, its how well the package works together that I was looking for. For me they worked out really well, my measure is a sharp downhill right hander very bumpy that I could barely take at 50. i am now able to do it at 70 NP with my stock GY RFT. I have since upgraded to Michelin PSS and could probably do it even faster.
I am very happy with the combo they ride real nice and a definite improvement in handling. Car is very neutral now I have a lot more confidence in the back. I got a great deal they were running a sale i got them for like $1100. Most other combo's will be in the same price range (except C6 Z06 shocks and Z51 sways) maybe more.
If you do go this route, a couple of install tips;
Make sure the sways don't bind in the bushings. I had to shim the bracket to frame connection with some big washers from Lowes. The bracket is too small and if you use the bigger bushings needed for any bigger sway bar they will not move and that's not good they have to be free. You don't want them sloppy loose, but they should be able to move. I had to grind the washers to get them to fit on the frame correctly I think i ended up with 3 under each bolt hole. Again you will probably have to do this with any larger swaybar using the factory sway bar bushing bracket.
When using the adj end links on the rear leave them disconnected and load the cars weight(i put all the tires on and lowered the car onto ramps) then i used the middle hole. You will have to adj the end links to fit when it loaded there is only one length that will fit.
For the fronts I noticed that I could use various lengths to get the endlinks to fit. A quick call to AFe and they said to set it for half way to start then adj if front is too tight or loose. For me this setup has made my car neutral no front end push or rear end kick out.
After looking at the attached jpg, borrowed from somewhere on these forums I installed Bilstein Sports and front/back Hotchkis Sways. Massive handling improvement in the curves; +10-15 or more mph easy on threadbare Nitto Invo tires.
I went with Johnny O'Connell sway bars front and back, which came complete with much better end links and adjustment, too, so you could refine how stiff the bars were, or set them softer for the street and tighter for track days.
FYI, here is a shot I created with the sizes and comparing looks, too:
Note: I had the rear bar installed before I thought to document what I was doing, which is why it isn't in the shot, but it's diameter is given.
Dam that stock rear bar looks like a twig in that photo!!!
Dam that stock rear bar looks like a twig in that photo!!!
Yeah - I learned from a bunch of work on a different car some years back, that these kind of improvements make a real difference for track days. That said, the stock set-up is no slouch for around town. Many cars don't even have sway bars, which help reduce the side to side flex that can happen at higher speeds, as the vehicles weight gets thrown around.
Like many things - the suspension system has many elements, so making changes to the various components should be done wisely.
there is a reason why the factory puts the heavier one in the rear on a base
That is incorrect. The factory puts a larger diameter bar in the front. On my base C6 coupe, the front was 26mm while the rear was only 17mm, as shown in the image I included in my post.
I went with the JOC sway bars for my 2013 GS. They made a huge improvement in the corners. Of course, it has been so long now that it is just "normal" to me.
OP, since you have non-Z51 sways just going up to the Z51 sways would be a good improvement. You should be able to pick up a used set cheap.
I replaced front and rear sways on my 2009 vert., base, with Z51/Z06 front 31mm and rear Z51 25.4mm with poly bushings. Made a great improvement with sway control. Replaced stock front spring with Z51 spring. I purchased sways and front spring from Corvette Recycling for a fraction of new price. Changed out stock shocks with Bilsteins Z51/Sport Performance. Handles great and still rides good. I picked up a nail on OEM GY run flat and have Pilot SS on the way. I will be set.
What would be a nice upgrade over Z51 sways? My 08 has Z51,I installed DRM revalved Bilstiens and looking to further improve handling.
Thanks
Jimmy
I have a 2013 GS which stock has the Z51/Z06 sway bars. I upgraded to the JOC sway bars and it was a huge improvement. If you want to go even stiffer than that, the LG G1 bars might be worth looking at.
What would be a nice upgrade over Z51 sways? My 08 has Z51,I installed DRM revalved Bilstiens and looking to further improve handling.
Thanks
Jimmy
"improve handling" is in the seat of the driver, and really depends on what you ask of your car. Sway bars tend to be taxed more at high speed and cornering that upsets the weight of the car. Most people don't drive in a way that really needs more than stock - and you're already up the food chain a bit with the Z51 bars.
The other side of sway bars that some seem to ignore is that they make the car stiffer - by design, which means it takes less of a bump to feel it in the car and not everyone likes that.
Sometimes people upgrade stuff because they can, not because they need to.
If you are into autocross, or the occasional track day, so feel you would benefit from thicker bars, then it's just a matter of knowing the diameter of what you have and moving to something beefier. That said, sway bars and shocks usually work best when bought together, or with the knowledge of the other in the mix. That is why you will find some of the best stuff out there sold in sway bar + shock packages. They are the main components that must play nice together in you suspension system.
10-22-2016, 02:57 AM
Sway Bars?
