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Valve lifters

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Old 10-23-2016, 04:13 AM
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Dirk1
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Default Valve lifters

Hi all,
I have a car (Gordon Keeble) with a 327 engine (1964)
Engine had been standing for about 20 years,looks partly reconditioned.
Tried several hours to start it but no way untill I decided to releive all the valve lash adjusters. Now it runs but of course with a lot of valve noise.Normally these cars were equipped with hydraulic lifters but the rebuilder either wrongly adjusted them(too tight) or the engine was equipped with solid adjusters. I put oil pressure on the engine before trying to start it so I presume if there are hydraulic ones they were filled up.
Is there an easyer way to find out wich type of lifters are in the engine without taking the inl. manifold off?
Being European I am not accustomed with the hydraulic ones.
I measured the distance on one of the rockers under valve spring pressure thinking the hydr. lifter would go off after a few hours but no change.
Does this lead to the conclusion that solid lifters are used?
Thks ,
Dirk,Antwerp-Belgiuml
Old 10-23-2016, 07:13 AM
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ILBMF
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You should be able to take a pushrod and collapse the lifter piston by pushing on it if it's a hydraulic lifter. May take some serious effort, not just a push with your thumb.
Old 10-23-2016, 07:21 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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Find a valve that's completely closed (rocker all the way up)...if you can slide a thin feeler gauge between the rocker and valve stem they are solids....hydraulics are pre-loaded and will have no gap...if adjusted properly...
Old 10-23-2016, 07:49 AM
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jim lockwood
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Find a valve that's completely closed (rocker all the way up)...if you can slide a thin feeler gauge between the rocker and valve stem they are solids....hydraulics are pre-loaded and will have no gap...if adjusted properly...
Good idea but I think it's too late for this, Frankie. OP stated he had to
releive all the valve lash adjusters
in order to get the engine to run.
Old 10-23-2016, 08:14 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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Originally Posted by jim lockwood
Good idea but I think it's too late for this, Frankie. OP stated he had to in order to get the engine to run.
You're right Jim - so much for my reading comprehension
Old 10-23-2016, 08:22 AM
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MikeM
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I would lash all the valves to a .002 clearance. Start the engine. It will be noisy but should be smooth running.

If that's the case then tighten one of the valves down until the clearance is gone and then go another 1/8 turn or so. The engine should get rough running momentarily and then smooth out as the lifter self adjusts. If that works out, do the rest the same way.

If that process doesn't stop the click and smoth out the engine, I think it would be safe to assume you have solid lifters.

Another method is to set the .002 clearance, start the engine then press the heel of your hand hard on the pushrod side of the rocker to make the click turn into a clack. If it does, you have hydraulic lifters. If it doesn't do this, you either have solid lifters or you are a 90 lb weakling.

I'm sure you can convert my weights and measurements to the metric system or whatever you guys use there.

Last edited by MikeM; 10-23-2016 at 08:24 AM.
Old 10-23-2016, 11:47 AM
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Dirk1
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Thks guys,think I will do the second option:right now the engine gives a continous raffle from all rockers,not possible to distinguis a single one.
I put on valve spring under tension and measured it up yesterday.Gap is the same today. Shouldn't a hydraulic one go off after obe night?Or will they keep up the oil?
Dirk
Old 10-23-2016, 11:58 AM
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W Guy
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Set up a dial indicator like this (if you have one) on a valve spring retainer. With all the lash removed, tighten down the rocker nut about a half turn and observe the indicator. If it stays at the same setting, you have solids. If it slowly drifts for a moment or two, you have hydraulics. That's because the lifter will bleed a bit due to the spring tension inside it.
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Old 10-23-2016, 12:00 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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Originally Posted by Dirk1
Thks guys,think I will do the second option:right now the engine gives a continous raffle from all rockers,not possible to distinguis a single one.
I put on valve spring under tension and measured it up yesterday.Gap is the same today. Shouldn't a hydraulic one go off after obe night?Or will they keep up the oil?
Dirk
Good hydraulics should retain some oil....otherwise every time you started the car cold it would rattle like a washing machine full of marbles..

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 10-23-2016 at 12:03 PM.
Old 10-23-2016, 12:18 PM
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Dirk1
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OK,will do the dial indicator first and will keep You posted.
dirk
Old 10-23-2016, 02:10 PM
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pop23235
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Originally Posted by MikeM
I would lash all the valves to a .002 clearance. Start the engine. It will be noisy but should be smooth running.

If that's the case then tighten one of the valves down until the clearance is gone and then go another 1/8 turn or so. The engine should get rough running momentarily and then smooth out as the lifter self adjusts. If that works out, do the rest the same way.

If that process doesn't stop the click and smoth out the engine, I think it would be safe to assume you have solid lifters.

Another method is to set the .002 clearance, start the engine then press the heel of your hand hard on the pushrod side of the rocker to make the click turn into a clack. If it does, you have hydraulic lifters. If it doesn't do this, you either have solid lifters or you are a 90 lb weakling.

I'm sure you can convert my weights and measurements to the metric system or whatever you guys use there.
Mike gives good instructions, but since we don't know the piston configuration, make sure to do the valve tightening step with the engine not running, then turn is over by hand two revolutions after tightening the adjustment before starting the engine. "IF" you have very low piston/valve clearance and a solid lifter, turning down 1/8 turn while running may cause interference and engine damage.
Old 10-23-2016, 02:19 PM
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Pop Chevy
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1/8 of a turn is about .020 , that's not going to hurt anything. If they are solids then the valve will be held open and the cyl will be dead and miss. If hyd then the cyl will stumble a few secs then smooth out.
Old 10-24-2016, 12:27 PM
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Dirk1
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Wguy was right: setting up with micrometer showed the valve cap slowly coming up (about .020" in 5 minutes) after putting some pressure.
The test with putting body weight on the hydr. lifter does not work (190 lbs)When the lifter is filled with oil one cannot bring it down by body weight.
Engine purrs well now.
Only thing bis that the oil pressure comes up very slowly and comes up to 20 lbs after warming up.Bringing the revs up make the pressure go down.Will have to test with another meter first tomorrow.No noises with zero pressure reading and rockers get plenty oil.
Thanks all for the help!
Dirk
Old 10-24-2016, 12:31 PM
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MikeM
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Originally Posted by Dirk1

The test with putting body weight on the hydr. lifter does not work (190 lbs)When the lifter is filled with oil one cannot bring it down by body weight.

Dirk
You have to put pressure on the rocker while the engine is running. Not when it's off. In any case, looks like you know what kind of lifters you have now.

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