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1995 ZR-1 Check Engine Light

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Old 10-23-2016, 02:04 PM
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Silverfox1
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Default 1995 ZR-1 Check Engine Light

Has 23,500mi. Installed Haibeck chip several months ago & has run great since, more power & cooler. All original except chip. Just put in new ACD battery & tested twice, all OK.

Went on cold start & heard a pop, engine light came on. Had to go out, but car ran smooth & strong, no odd sounds, no smoke, plenty of gas. Except for light, would never know something happened. Tried to reset by disconnecting battery, but light still came on. The only thing I can possibly say MAY have changed is that idle won't come down under 1,000-1,100. Maybe related?

I have a CAN OBD II for my '96, but I believe that will not work on the '95, altho the plug will fit. Can anyone recommend an inexpensive reader for OBD I? I wanted to see if I could get a code first, but any thoughts appreciated.
Thx
Old 10-23-2016, 02:21 PM
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When the LT5 pops it is a backfire, Map sensor vac line most likely came off, Map sensor is under the silver cover at the rear of the plenum.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-backfire.html

Last edited by FASTAZU; 10-23-2016 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 10-23-2016, 04:18 PM
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DRM500RUBYZR-1
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Originally Posted by We Gone
When the LT5 pops it is a backfire, Map sensor vac line most likely came off, Map sensor is under the silver cover at the rear of the plenum.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-backfire.html

Marty
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Old 10-23-2016, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

Marty


x2

'Crabs
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Old 10-23-2016, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by We Gone
When the LT5 pops it is a backfire, Map sensor vac line most likely came off, Map sensor is under the silver cover at the rear of the plenum.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-backfire.html


You are THE MAN. Absolutely correct & solved the high idle issue as well.
Was an easy fix. Question: the vac line is actually pretty short, but it starts out at the sensor as "wide" line which is connected to about 2" of narrower line (where it separated) & then back to the "wide" line (1") to the nipple. Why not just have 1 solid line of the same size, why bother with the narrow interim? Is that how it's supposed to be?

Thanks again!
Old 10-24-2016, 09:39 AM
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Yes that is how they are. As they get old they tend to get lose from oil, may be time for a new line.

One of the few and best parts suppliers.
http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/hose-ma...ew-90-95-13d4/
Old 10-24-2016, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Silverfox1
You are THE MAN. Absolutely correct & solved the high idle issue as well.
Was an easy fix. Question: the vac line is actually pretty short, but it starts out at the sensor as "wide" line which is connected to about 2" of narrower line (where it separated) & then back to the "wide" line (1") to the nipple. Why not just have 1 solid line of the same size, why bother with the narrow interim? Is that how it's supposed to be?

Thanks again!
Reason it's wide, narrow, back to wide is that wide portions are rubber vacuum line to connect to hard plastic line between the nipples. I replaced the OEM MAP sensor line with rubber vacuum hose once. It worked fine until oil and gas fume plus heat soften the rubber line to a point where it would collapse during high engine vacuum, cut off vacuum to the MAP sensor, resulting in false signal from MAP sensor to ECM making the motor cut off during deceleration. If and when you replace MAP sensor hose replace with OEM hose.
Old 10-25-2016, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by We Gone
Yes that is how they are. As they get old they tend to get lose from oil, may be time for a new line.

One of the few and best parts suppliers.
http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/hose-ma...ew-90-95-13d4/


Good idea. I'm gonna flight test early next year & that would not be the time for a repeat. Cheap insurance. i actually got the black oil filter from Jerry's . Glad they're around.

Thx again !
Old 10-25-2016, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by secondchance
Reason it's wide, narrow, back to wide is that wide portions are rubber vacuum line to connect to hard plastic line between the nipples. I replaced the OEM MAP sensor line with rubber vacuum hose once. It worked fine until oil and gas fume plus heat soften the rubber line to a point where it would collapse during high engine vacuum, cut off vacuum to the MAP sensor, resulting in false signal from MAP sensor to ECM making the motor cut off during deceleration. If and when you replace MAP sensor hose replace with OEM hose.


Ok, that makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.

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