pauldana

Well.. I changed from a EX EFI 2.0 to a Sportsman XFI...

It still used the same throttle body as the EZ EFI, but it is far from basic as the EZ EFI was...

So, my question is, for the others that have traveled this road, what should I be looking for and any tips before I start delving into the program this weekend..

Thank you .. p

suprspooky

I've been helping a friend tune his Holley Terminator and two things we found were: learn how to use the Data Log options correctly (you probably already know that) and make sure your sensor data looks clean in the logs (no electrical noise due to ignition or poor ground). I'll be watching this thread to see if you post updates on progress. I have a Hilborn 8 stack efi conversion that is part of this winters vette engine project, so I'll be learning a bunch too. (hopefully without melt down)

Luce

I'll second the clean sensor signals. That is absolutely critical. Anything you try to do before that is wasted time and risk to your engine.

I had a noisy TPS that made the ECU think you were pumping the throttle, so periodically dumping accel enrichment (causing a rich misfire) and triggering the fast idle. Critical control sensors is not the place for $5 chineese counterfiet ebay parts.

And again, learnign how to read data logs and understand which reading is the cause and which is the effect.

A hint- a rich misfire looks lean on the AFR. The AFR is a reading from the O2 sensor, and a misfire has loads of O2, so it shows a high AFR, then the auto learn algorithms add fuel making the problem worse.

pauldana

Thanks guys... I have been running the EZ EFI 2.0 for the past 2 years, so I am fully aware of ALL the EMI and RFI interference problems... And by education and first work I was an RF engineer for 20+ years....

What I need help with is the tables and programming.. I have never gone into them before,,, this is a first for me,,,, so any hints or directions would be greatly appreciated..

suprspooky

I'm no expert but what i'm discovering (friends car) is that beyond looking at logs for the AFR being correct a lot of the small adjustments (idle enrichment, accel enrichment etc.) can be very subjective (driver feel) and unless you're using a g-meter it's super subjective.
About the only for sure I can offer is to get your base fuel table smooth before you start tweaking anything else and backup your config. often with notes of changes.
I'm interested in your progress as I may switch to a fast for my project as my Accel ecu is now unsupported.

Luce

Not sure how FAST does it, but in megasquirt, you have 2 fuel tables (speed density-VE and target AFR). The auto tune will get you a pretty good VE table, then you pick the AFR. That's the one that's subjective. Tuning WOT is pretty easy. The part that takes skill is getting maximum efficiency at cruise and pest possible transition manners. Idle isn't to hard because it's just a couple of cells. Some of the other ECUs only have a single fuel table that's the same if you were to multiply the two. With the single map, it's a little less clear exactly what you're doing.

Luce

If you have a strong electronics background, you may be a better candidate for Megasquirt. I often don't recommend it to people who have no real grasp of what is going on inside the black box, but megasquirt does everythign and more than any of the others, or can be more simple for a LOT less money. I'm a fan of MS2. If you still have a decent soldering iron and remember how to use it, for $280 and a couple of hours you can solder up your own. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...-w-black-case/

AND you can add a couple of darlingtons to drive relays for electric fans and shift lights and idiot lights.

pauldana

Thank you... but i have the XFI installed, and just not going down that road again unless I have to:-)

metal tech

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ers-manual.pdf

This may give you a direction to go as you do the programming. If the Holley EFI guy gives this link out it can't be all bad. The first 11 pages are a good read.

SteveG75

One thing that my tuner told me was that if you have a stick, only use the auto tune in one gear (usually third). The load is different for different gears. Then, use the closed loop to adjust for load under different gears. Otherwise, your auto tune fluctuates.

pauldana

Thank you,, both.. I am doing both





And I am going to look for some youtube videos,,,