External float charger connection locations
#1
External float charger connection locations
I just replaced my battery in my 2003. I bought the car in June with what looked like a pretty new Interstate but it died the other day. I just went ahead and got a new Autozone Duralast Gold and want to use a float charger and am wondering if anybody has found a convenient, pretty well hidden and above all SAFE way to be able to plug the charger in without having to use the cig. lighter outlet or the battery clamps. The car is covered most of the time and I would like to have a way to have an external place to plug it in at times like somewhere upfront the way they use block heaters and such. The alternator checks out ok but it sat for about 3 weeks and from what I read here these things die pretty quick for some reason. I just really don't want to use the cig. outlet and have the wire hanging out under the door. I have about 3 float chargers already but never used the quick disconnect wires like for use on bikes.
Of course it would be fused
Of course it would be fused
#2
Pro
I had the same dilemma... what I did was buy a regular battery tender which came with two types of removable leads. (alligator clips and eyes)
I took the one with the "eyes" and hooked one leg up to the hot terminal at the fuse block and the other to the ground lug down low and in between the battery box and the right hand manifold (its a direct connection the the frame and has few wires on it now) then I fished the wire out the side grill (you need to remove the inner fender splash shield to do this but that's easy. It tuck back out of sight when not in use.
Now I don't have to open the hood to connect or disconnect. Very clean.
I took the one with the "eyes" and hooked one leg up to the hot terminal at the fuse block and the other to the ground lug down low and in between the battery box and the right hand manifold (its a direct connection the the frame and has few wires on it now) then I fished the wire out the side grill (you need to remove the inner fender splash shield to do this but that's easy. It tuck back out of sight when not in use.
Now I don't have to open the hood to connect or disconnect. Very clean.
#3
Drifting
I have the quick disconnect cable with the positive lead connected at the fuse box lug directly in front of the battery. The negative lead is connected to the ground lug located on the frame rail below side of the plastic battery box. When the car is stored I just crack the hood and run the wire out over the front facia or over the side of the fender to the battery tender, then put the cover on. Leaving the hood cracked open is a good reminder that the tender is hooked up.
Last edited by MAC5; 12-03-2016 at 08:58 AM.
#4
I had the same dilemma... what I did was buy a regular battery tender which came with two types of removable leads. (alligator clips and eyes)
I took the one with the "eyes" and hooked one leg up to the hot terminal at the fuse block and the other to the ground lug down low and in between the battery box and the right hand manifold (its a direct connection the the frame and has few wires on it now) then I fished the wire out the side grill (you need to remove the inner fender splash shield to do this but that's easy. It tuck back out of sight when not in use.
Now I don't have to open the hood to connect or disconnect. Very clean.
I took the one with the "eyes" and hooked one leg up to the hot terminal at the fuse block and the other to the ground lug down low and in between the battery box and the right hand manifold (its a direct connection the the frame and has few wires on it now) then I fished the wire out the side grill (you need to remove the inner fender splash shield to do this but that's easy. It tuck back out of sight when not in use.
Now I don't have to open the hood to connect or disconnect. Very clean.
A while back I got one of those screen kits for in there and didn't like the looks of them after I got them, glad the side is still open. Thanks so much for the idea. That's what's neat about this forum, somebody else is already doing what you are or already has and you find out what works and what doesn't.
#5
Yes that is a good place. I never considered that, I was more thinking around the grille openings or something like that but that sounds perfect. That way if it,s covered all you have to do is feel around in there a little under the cover and plug it in. I'm doing it that way too with the fuse of course and probably some wire loom.
A while back I got one of those screen kits for in there and didn't like the looks of them after I got them, glad the side is still open. Thanks so much for the idea. That's what's neat about this forum, somebody else is already doing what you are or already has and you find out what works and what doesn't.
A while back I got one of those screen kits for in there and didn't like the looks of them after I got them, glad the side is still open. Thanks so much for the idea. That's what's neat about this forum, somebody else is already doing what you are or already has and you find out what works and what doesn't.
#6
I started late this evening running the wire like we talked about after cutting it and soldering somemore wire to lengthen it and 3 layers of shrink tube with a wire loom. Also found that bolt for the ground, looks like it was put there for this, very convenient. Also first time I had it off the ground to pull a wheel and being the first time doing this on a Vette was interesting. Gonna need a long racing jack it looks like if there is such a thing.
I'm gonna put it over on the drivers side I guess since I have plenty of wire, shrink tube and wire loom left.
#7
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I too use a cover on the car while in storage for the winter and just hook the alligator clips on the side battery terminals, leave the hood popped and run the wires over the pass fender. I do put a towel over the fender so the wires do not lay directly on the paint. I then put the cover on the car. Been doing it that way for many years.
As far as driving away with the charger still connected - I can visually see the power cord connected to an outlet on the wall since the outlet is located 3-4 feet off the floor. If the cord is plugged in, the charger is hooked up to the car. When not in use, I unplug the cord from the wall and take the alligator clips off the battery.
As far as driving away with the charger still connected - I can visually see the power cord connected to an outlet on the wall since the outlet is located 3-4 feet off the floor. If the cord is plugged in, the charger is hooked up to the car. When not in use, I unplug the cord from the wall and take the alligator clips off the battery.
#8
Safety Car
I put a BNC port on the passenger side that's fed from the power stud with a sealed inline fuse, a tee and cable go to another port on the drivers' side, when not in use the dust covers are connected. The charger output cord was changed to a BNC cable so it's easy to make connections and there are no clips to catch on anything on the engine, the bayonet design ensures a good connection that won't fall off. If a car cover was used the charger wall cord would drop to the floor between the engine and fender for access. Here's a look at the charger connected to the drivers' side port, another tee is attached to the charger cable end so a voltmeter can be added to measure the battery voltage if needed. These ports are a convenient source of power and it's easy to plug a voltmeter into one to check the battery voltage.
Here's a source for BNC components,http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...548-ND/1755935.
Here's a source for BNC components,http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...548-ND/1755935.