the aeronut

I have a 64 convertible which has just had an aftermarket heat/air unit installed. One of the mods needed for the install was moving the battery from the passenger side over to the driver side. This presents the first problem. It is now surrounded by dual master brake cylinder pluming, hood latch hardware and new hoses and cables which, I believe, will make it a Pita to get out. Now on to the primary problem. All the electrical stuff inside the car is dead, lights, radio and ignition etc.
Believing it was probably a discharged battery, I put a charger on it but within a few seconds the "smart" charger told me I was wasting my time with this one. I like "smart" diagnostics cause I dummer than dirt regarding this type thing. So, just to check the charger's IQ, I put my multi-meter on the dead battery and took a reading. 10.5v is what it showed which is low but:

Question 1. Is that low enough not to even light a little LED interior light?

So, dreading to extricate the battery, I began to read on the forum hoping to find some other trouble shooting tips which might free me from the chore. I came across a tidbit regarding something call "red wire syndrome" which had the exact symptoms my car has. It called for disconnecting the inboard through firewall electrical connector and checking for corrosion especially around the 12ga red wire pins. Indeed, I did find a bit or corrosion so I wire brushed the pins on both side of the connector, sprayed a bit of anti corrosion cleaner and reconnected everything. The result.

NOTHING

Question 2. Is there anything else I can try or should just assume the battery had a dead cell and try and drag the the thing out?

I would appreciate any suggestions but please note my ignorance of such things and be prepared to "draw me a picture" if I don't get it.

Frankie the Fink

Well - I must have seen 110 aftermarket A/C installs and I don't know of any that require swapping the battery position, the alternator yes, but not the battery - so, you didn't do yourself any favors there.

Second you say everything inside the car is dead, what about outside ? Horn ? Headlights ?

Third, yes, 10V is too low by a long shot on a quiescent system. It should read 12.3V or higher on a charged battery.

Your battery is bad, or, more likely, your system is not charging....if you can get the car started you should see between 13.8V and 14.2V at a fast idle on a healthy system...

Tampa Jerry

Sounds like you have a few problems. As Frankie said, your battery is too low to start the car. Your lights should come on but be dim, same for the interior lights. Check your battery and or charging system. Next, check the big red wire which supplies power to the inside of the car. It runs through then firewall under the master cylinder. Take apart the connection and clean it. Lastly, when you move the battery to the drivers side, it comes out through the drivers side wheel well. You must take the wheel off. You must cut a hole in the drivers side wheel well and install the door or panel to close up the hole. See your AIM in the A/C section and it will show you what needs to be done. You can buy the door kit and rivets and bolts from most of the vendors. Sounds like you don't have the door or panel installed. Good luck. Jerry

DUB

When GM installed the battery on the drivers side...they actually modified the inner skirt and made an access panel that can be removed to ease the serviceability of the battery.

And unless you give it to someone who knows electrical...it may be time you begin to learn...because your car is rather easy. It may be time to get a wiring diagram and begin to understand the circuits and how 'things' work. Which many of us here will be more than willing to help you in...BUT...you do have to want to fix this...and invest in some special tools...because me wasting my time on someone who just does not want to mess with it...is just that...me wasting my time.

I will then tell them to take it to someone.

SO...it seems like you want to fix it and are at a 'cross roads' in your desire and your ability....and if you have a wiring diagram and also the wiring diagram from this new A/C install... It is now up to you.

It could be something as simple as burnt fusible link.

DUB

the aeronut

Jerry, Thanks. The red wire you're talking about, is it the one in the inboard bulkhead electrical plug?
I can't find anything on line regarding an access panel for the wheel well. Can you give me any specifics on that?

65GGvert

Since the battery was moved, make sure the negative cable has a GOOD ground on the chassis and that both battery posts are clean and tight.
Put a voltmeter on the fuses in the fuse box and see if you have 12v on any of the fuses. That's where the red wire feeds the voltage to. Post back whether you have voltage on any of the fuses and we'll go from there. I suspect a not so good battery ground.

Pilot Dan

You don't say how soon after the conversion this electrical problem started, but with the movement of the battery and the alternator, I'd be wondering if the wiring was done properly and give that a real close look. When you get it started, a multi meter hooked directly to the battery will quickly tell what's going on. You may wish to move the battery back to it's original location as future access would be easier, otherwise you should consider adding the access panel to the left fender skirt. It is bad enough dealing with that battery on the right side let alone the way it is now
Pilot Dan

Pilot Dan

It's basically a removable panel that attaches to the fender skirt where there is a cut out for access.

65GGvert

http://licorvette.com/Batterypanel_ac_396_corvette.htm

the aeronut

Well, the conversion was done fairly recently but the car set in the shop almost 2 years sometimes out in the weather. When I picked the car up about 2 weeks ago the battery was dead and had to be jump started. They had already killed the new battery that was in the car when they got it. These people have been a nightmare. Anyway, the multimeter shows 10.5v on the battery with no load but everything went dead rather abruptly, I had interior lights, radio, clock then when I tried to start the car everything went dead almost immediately. I have nothing, no headlights, no horn, no radio, no interior LED lights, no clock nothing. I would have thought that 10.5v would at least have enough to turn on the LEDs and that's what makes me think that although the battery is certainly weak that there may be another problem. But before anything else, I have to get the d... battery out of the hole. So I guess I'll be looking for an access panel and begin a cut and paste routine.
I can't move it back because the ac pluming now blocks that space.

the aeronut

Thanks DUB but I'm incredibly stupid when it comes to this kind of stuff. Electronics is in the same realm as Magic as far as I'm concerned but yes, I do have the schematics from the AIM and would like to come to some basic understanding of how this stuff works. But the first priority is to get the darn battery out and simply have it checked. That task itself will be a challenge.

rtruman

Don't jump to conclusions DC voltage doesn't know anything its all about connections .
Loose ground charge the battery first ,like 65GGvert says go next to fuses make sure you have 12 volts there if not move backwards to battery you don't have to move stuff just read the meter

the aeronut

The battery will not take a charge. That's why I assume there is a bad cell in it.

65GGvert

The latest symptoms you described are very typical of a bad battery. They can read a fair voltage, but when a load is applied, they cannot produce the current, so voltage drops. If you want an easy troubleshoot, disconnect one of the battery cables, use some jumper cables from a good battery and see if you don't get lights, etc. Don't try it with your old battery in the circuit, remove one of the cables. Now that you added info, I feel pretty sure you have a bad battery.

Pilot Dan

I'd say that battery is toast. Best to start with a fresh one at this point. These shops that take 2 years to finish a job ........
very frustrating to say the least, show their lack of respect and care for the customer and the car.

I'd order the access door and use it as a template to make your cut. You have the AIM so you can fine tune the dimensions which are given in sect 60 sheet B2 (according to my copy).

DUB

I understand...and if you feel you need to take 'CORVETTE ELECTRICAL 101'...do not hesitate to ask.

Your car is so basic...in regards to a 2017...it is literally...for those of us who know electrical stuff......easy.

FOR WHATEVER THIS IS WORTH:

IF you are using a battery charger what bash a built in gauge in the charger that shows the charging amps the battery is taking. And if you connect this battery charger and turn it on and the needle shows it is not adding any amps to the battery. TRY THIS:

This has saved me a BUNCH of times when I am trying to get a battery to 'come alive' again.

When the charger is connected and turned ON....pull the headlight switch. (in this specific case that 'the aeronut' is having) Remove the battery cables and connect the charger and then...some kinda way....wire in a couple of headlgiths and get them to shine. Or you can sue anything that requires DC voltage to run...such as a blower motor if you have an old one that works laying around

When doing this....the battery charger should now show some value on the gauge of the amps that are required to power up the headlights. NOW...the battery is actually working...and IF the battery can be saved.....the charging needle on the gauge will climb...and eventually the headlights can be turned off or disconnected and the battery will then be able to be charged fully.

When I am doing this I have my charger set on 40 amp charge. And I will give it about 45 minutes and see if the battery is taking a charge. IF not...then teh battery is toast.

AND...obviously if the battery is the type that requires distilled water to be added. I check that FIRST.


Gettign a new battery may be the way to go...but soemtimes if you can save a buck...why not.

DUB

71scgc

If you are electrically challenged, get a wiring diagram from Dr. Rebuild. Much, much easier to read.
I'm a journeyman electrician and have a hard time reading GM diagrams. Old eyes compound the problem...

Carter