Replacing my crankshaft balancer
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Replacing my crankshaft balancer
My crankshaft balancer pulley was wobbling and making noise on my '07 c6. So I started the journey to replace it with FSM and TSB 05-06-01-001A in hand.
I have the old pulley off and both the FSM & TSB tell me to "Place the old & new balancers on the bench and orient them the same way. Mark the new balancer in the same location as the old balancer." Well as you can see in mine, the weight holes on them are completely different. What does "in the same location" mean?
Also, I noticed that when I put them side by side, the new one is 1/8" deeper. The belt slots are the same size, but the new pulley will be spaced 1/8" farther from the engine block than the old. Should I be concerned?
Thanks!!
I have the old pulley off and both the FSM & TSB tell me to "Place the old & new balancers on the bench and orient them the same way. Mark the new balancer in the same location as the old balancer." Well as you can see in mine, the weight holes on them are completely different. What does "in the same location" mean?
Also, I noticed that when I put them side by side, the new one is 1/8" deeper. The belt slots are the same size, but the new pulley will be spaced 1/8" farther from the engine block than the old. Should I be concerned?
Thanks!!
#2
Safety Car
Does the silicone seal protrude more on the old HB? I suspect the outer ring has moved inward onto the hub (inner ring), thus causing a misalignment on the old HB..
Last edited by Mike's LS3; 12-06-2016 at 03:18 AM.
#3
Safety Car
My crankshaft balancer pulley was wobbling and making noise on my '07 c6. So I started the journey to replace it with FSM and TSB 05-06-01-001A in hand.
I have the old pulley off and both the FSM & TSB tell me to "Place the old & new balancers on the bench and orient them the same way. Mark the new balancer in the same location as the old balancer." Well as you can see in mine, the weight holes on them are completely different. What does "in the same location" mean?
Also, I noticed that when I put them side by side, the new one is 1/8" deeper. The belt slots are the same size, but the new pulley will be spaced 1/8" farther from the engine block than the old. Should I be concerned?
Thanks!!
I have the old pulley off and both the FSM & TSB tell me to "Place the old & new balancers on the bench and orient them the same way. Mark the new balancer in the same location as the old balancer." Well as you can see in mine, the weight holes on them are completely different. What does "in the same location" mean?
Also, I noticed that when I put them side by side, the new one is 1/8" deeper. The belt slots are the same size, but the new pulley will be spaced 1/8" farther from the engine block than the old. Should I be concerned?
Thanks!!
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Vinsanity (12-06-2016)
#4
Le Mans Master
Agree, it is the orientation on the crankshaft for both. The holes are a rotational balancing process done in manufacturing. You want the tight grouping of balance holes at the same degree from TDC new to old.
On the height, you're taking the wrong measurement. The measurement you're taking has no relationship to belt alignment. Set both units on a flatplate. Measure from the flatplate to the first tooth on the first serpentine pulley on both and compare. Then another measurement from the flatplate to the first tooth on the second serpentine pulley and compare. Bet they are the same.
Finally, you have such a golden opportunity that you're about to miss by replacing that HB with another GM unit. If you do, remember the process as you could be doing all of this over again next year, but at least you'll be good at it by then. Consider an aftermarket like Powerbond or ATI.
On the height, you're taking the wrong measurement. The measurement you're taking has no relationship to belt alignment. Set both units on a flatplate. Measure from the flatplate to the first tooth on the first serpentine pulley on both and compare. Then another measurement from the flatplate to the first tooth on the second serpentine pulley and compare. Bet they are the same.
Finally, you have such a golden opportunity that you're about to miss by replacing that HB with another GM unit. If you do, remember the process as you could be doing all of this over again next year, but at least you'll be good at it by then. Consider an aftermarket like Powerbond or ATI.
Last edited by BlindSpot; 12-06-2016 at 06:32 AM.
#5
Le Mans Master
Why would you replace a junk balancer with another junk balancer.. Save yourself from having to replace the part again in a few years by getting an aftermarket balancer.. Do a search and you will see 100s of people on here have had to replace the balancers on these cars...Take the stock part back and get a Powerbond or an ATI.......WW
#6
Retired & lovin' it!
Why would you replace a junk balancer with another junk balancer.. Save yourself from having to replace the part again in a few years by getting an aftermarket balancer.. Do a search and you will see 100s of people on here have had to replace the balancers on these cars...Take the stock part back and get a Powerbond or an ATI.......WW
#8
Le Mans Master
Go with an aftermarket unit and be done.
#9
Advanced
Thread Starter
I threw out the packaging, so I can't return the OEM balancer. So going aftermarket would start by eating that. Maybe partially recoop it on ebay. The cheaper of ATI & Powerbond is the Powerbond PB1117SS for $220.
As some of you know, taking this apart was no quick task. I have no interest in repeating it. Realistically, what are the chances that the OEM one would fail again? I don't drive it easy but I don't take it to the track either. Is it really worth buying a second balancer?
Thanks!
As some of you know, taking this apart was no quick task. I have no interest in repeating it. Realistically, what are the chances that the OEM one would fail again? I don't drive it easy but I don't take it to the track either. Is it really worth buying a second balancer?
Thanks!
#10
Le Mans Master
I threw out the packaging, so I can't return the OEM balancer. So going aftermarket would start by eating that. Maybe partially recoop it on ebay. The cheaper of ATI & Powerbond is the Powerbond PB1117SS for $220.
As some of you know, taking this apart was no quick task. I have no interest in repeating it. Realistically, what are the chances that the OEM one would fail again? I don't drive it easy but I don't take it to the track either. Is it really worth buying a second balancer?
Thanks!
As some of you know, taking this apart was no quick task. I have no interest in repeating it. Realistically, what are the chances that the OEM one would fail again? I don't drive it easy but I don't take it to the track either. Is it really worth buying a second balancer?
Thanks!
I, for one, am not making recommendations NOT to install the GM part to be funny or as hyperbole. I make the recommendation based on the actual record.
#11
Burning Brakes
Just slap the new OEM balancer on and call it done.
Worse case it you'll only get 10-15 years out of it.
Use the money you save to take the wife out to dinner and keep the damn car parts off her granite countertops
Worse case it you'll only get 10-15 years out of it.
Use the money you save to take the wife out to dinner and keep the damn car parts off her granite countertops
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Arctic Vette (12-22-2016)
#12
Le Mans Master
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Last edited by WW7; 12-07-2016 at 06:12 AM.
#13
Le Mans Master
My stock balancer was shot at 25,000 miles. There are several people on here who have had them go bad in less than 10,000 miles.
Where do you get 10-15 years as a worst case?
Last edited by HBsurfer; 12-06-2016 at 08:24 PM.
#14
Safety Car
I threw out the packaging, so I can't return the OEM balancer. So going aftermarket would start by eating that. Maybe partially recoop it on ebay. The cheaper of ATI & Powerbond is the Powerbond PB1117SS for $220.
As some of you know, taking this apart was no quick task. I have no interest in repeating it. Realistically, what are the chances that the OEM one would fail again? I don't drive it easy but I don't take it to the track either. Is it really worth buying a second balancer?
Thanks!
As some of you know, taking this apart was no quick task. I have no interest in repeating it. Realistically, what are the chances that the OEM one would fail again? I don't drive it easy but I don't take it to the track either. Is it really worth buying a second balancer?
Thanks!
The following users liked this post:
WW7 (12-07-2016)
#16
Race Director
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Agree, it is the orientation on the crankshaft for both. The holes are a rotational balancing process done in manufacturing. You want the tight grouping of balance holes at the same degree from TDC new to old.
Finally, you have such a golden opportunity that you're about to miss by replacing that HB with another GM unit. If you do, remember the process as you could be doing all of this over again next year, but at least you'll be good at it by then. Consider an aftermarket like Powerbond or ATI.
Finally, you have such a golden opportunity that you're about to miss by replacing that HB with another GM unit. If you do, remember the process as you could be doing all of this over again next year, but at least you'll be good at it by then. Consider an aftermarket like Powerbond or ATI.
Have the failures in A6 vs M6 cars been at a similar ratio as
production? I ask this, because the shock values on M6 cars greatly exceed the same of those with the A6. I've personally been above redline a minimum of 1000 times just at the dragstrip alone, so it appears that either high RPM alone is not a cause for failure or I've been extremely lucky.
#17
Le Mans Master
I have 140K miles on my OEM balancer that was removed and reinstalled at 72K with no concern for orientation. If I swap to an aftermarket unit, how and why would I need to set the 0 degree mark at TDC if there is no fixed pointer and I have no need to know the relationship? If both the factory unit and aftermarket's are independently balanced and there is no crankshaft keyway, why is orientation necessary?
Have the failures in A6 vs M6 cars been at a similar ratio as
production? I ask this, because the shock values on M6 cars greatly exceed the same of those with the A6. I've personally been above redline a minimum of 1000 times just at the dragstrip alone, so it appears that either high RPM alone is not a cause for failure or I've been extremely lucky.
Have the failures in A6 vs M6 cars been at a similar ratio as
production? I ask this, because the shock values on M6 cars greatly exceed the same of those with the A6. I've personally been above redline a minimum of 1000 times just at the dragstrip alone, so it appears that either high RPM alone is not a cause for failure or I've been extremely lucky.
#18
Le Mans Master
I have 140K miles on my OEM balancer that was removed and reinstalled at 72K with no concern for orientation. If I swap to an aftermarket unit, how and why would I need to set the 0 degree mark at TDC if there is no fixed pointer and I have no need to know the relationship? If both the factory unit and aftermarket's are independently balanced and there is no crankshaft keyway, why is orientation necessary?
Have the failures in A6 vs M6 cars been at a similar ratio as
production? I ask this, because the shock values on M6 cars greatly exceed the same of those with the A6. I've personally been above redline a minimum of 1000 times just at the dragstrip alone, so it appears that either high RPM alone is not a cause for failure or I've been extremely lucky.
Have the failures in A6 vs M6 cars been at a similar ratio as
production? I ask this, because the shock values on M6 cars greatly exceed the same of those with the A6. I've personally been above redline a minimum of 1000 times just at the dragstrip alone, so it appears that either high RPM alone is not a cause for failure or I've been extremely lucky.
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Last edited by WW7; 12-07-2016 at 06:16 AM.
#19
Le Mans Master
I have 140K miles on my OEM balancer that was removed and reinstalled at 72K with no concern for orientation. If I swap to an aftermarket unit, how and why would I need to set the 0 degree mark at TDC if there is no fixed pointer and I have no need to know the relationship? If both the factory unit and aftermarket's are independently balanced and there is no crankshaft keyway, why is orientation necessary?
Have the failures in A6 vs M6 cars been at a similar ratio as
production? I ask this, because the shock values on M6 cars greatly exceed the same of those with the A6. I've personally been above redline a minimum of 1000 times just at the dragstrip alone, so it appears that either high RPM alone is not a cause for failure or I've been extremely lucky.
Have the failures in A6 vs M6 cars been at a similar ratio as
production? I ask this, because the shock values on M6 cars greatly exceed the same of those with the A6. I've personally been above redline a minimum of 1000 times just at the dragstrip alone, so it appears that either high RPM alone is not a cause for failure or I've been extremely lucky.
GM has the installer on manuals placing an arbitrary reference mark on the old HB and the CS. Then on the bench, looking for weights added back in the holes on the old HB, and transferring those into the new HB and orienting those at the same position on the crank.
This suggests, that even though the rotating assembly is balanced, independently from the HB, that after final assembly, another measurement is taken and weights added back in. I agree, with an aftermarket HB this has to be ignored.
From GM:
Important:
• For manual transmission applications, note the
position of the crankshaft balancer before
removal;,The: balancer does not use a key or
keyway for positioning. Mark or scribe the end of
the crankshaft and the balancer before
component removal. The crankshaft balancer
51 must be'installed to the original position. If
replacing the^crankshaft balancer, riote the
location of any existing balance weights; if "
applicable. Crankshaft balance weights must be
installed into the new balancer in the same
location as the old balancer. A properly installed
balance weight will be either flush or below
flush with the face of the balancer.
• Do not use the crankshaft balancer bolt
#20
Safety Car
I have 140K miles on my OEM balancer that was removed and reinstalled at 72K with no concern for orientation. If I swap to an aftermarket unit, how and why would I need to set the 0 degree mark at TDC if there is no fixed pointer and I have no need to know the relationship? If both the factory unit and aftermarket's are independently balanced and there is no crankshaft keyway, why is orientation necessary?
Have the failures in A6 vs M6 cars been at a similar ratio as
production? I ask this, because the shock values on M6 cars greatly exceed the same of those with the A6. I've personally been above redline a minimum of 1000 times just at the dragstrip alone, so it appears that either high RPM alone is not a cause for failure or I've been extremely lucky.
Have the failures in A6 vs M6 cars been at a similar ratio as
production? I ask this, because the shock values on M6 cars greatly exceed the same of those with the A6. I've personally been above redline a minimum of 1000 times just at the dragstrip alone, so it appears that either high RPM alone is not a cause for failure or I've been extremely lucky.