Daren67

need to install exhaust on my 67 asap and get car to storage before first salting. The salt like crazy in my town.

to to hook up my exhaust do I go front to back. Meaning exhaust manifolds to front pipe first. then rear to front pipe?. I bought new n11 welded rear pipes. Or do I hook up rear to front pipe then wrestle flanges and hangers.

also my heat riser was gutted by bubba. I only drive in warm weather so don't care. If I plug up 2 holes in heat riser with ss Bolts would the nuts in the pipe prohibit exhaust flow ?
Should I tap a larger bolt in the riser to block it off?. Would JB weld or solder hold up . Any neat suggestions to plug up butterfly holes in heat riser?

thanks for everyone's help. The forum is awesome

Tooth Doctor

When I did mine I started with the back. Push the front of the rear pipes through the crossmember and hang the mufflers. Then place the front pipes into the rear pipes and exhaust manifolds. Snug the clamps but leave them loose enough to be able to move everything around to get it all lined up. Once you are satisfied with alignment, tighten all clamps. While my car was still on the jack stands I started it and let it run and get up to temperature. After it cooled I retightened the clamps.

I think you could plug the holes in the heat riser with bolts and nuts and some high temp sealer for a quick fix. Even better would be to drill and tap the holes for plugs. Hope this helps, good luck.

R66

The drill and tap for set screws would look cleaner, or buy the aftermarket spacer without the holes.

Thinking about one bolt all of the way thru, It would restrict the flow no more than the original shaft for the flapper. Cheap and quick.

Of course, none of the above would work if you are going for the gold.

Either way on the pipes, just leave everything somewhat loose (just in contact) and shim the pipes to center them in the cross member before tightening them up at that joint and the manifolds. You don't want to damage the donuts.

vark_wso

Daren

My personal preference is to work from the rear of the car with the filler panel off, the muffler hangars in place on the frame - snug but not tight, & the spare tire carrier in place. With the welded tail pipe/muffler as an assembly, you'll lose a degree of freedom (roll, or rotation) over an exhaust set that has header pipe, tail pipe and muffler (two joints). Try out the slip fit joint on your pipes before starting. If it's real tight it will cause you grief trying to mate up at the cross member. Have the tail pipe end expanded by a muffler shop if required.

Instead of a re-Bubba fix for the heat riser, suggest purchasing a 2" spacer on RH side with appropriate gaskets.

The AIM has a pretty good section showing clearance from strut rods, crossmember, spare tire tub, filler panel bezels, and the like. Once assembled loosely, I've used a floor jack fitted with a wood "bridge" to keep things level at both sides. You'll have to insert, then remove, the rear valance/filler panel several times -- same with the stainless exhaust extensions as you work for good centers and good concentric looks as the extensions protrude.

Working forward, try to keep the LH and RH pipes with their flat bottoms even. Get the male/female joint together (loose) at the crossmember. With the header pipes loosely connected at the manifolds/spacer, you'll have some ability to seat the donuts without severe pinch.

This is one of those tasks that's similar to fitting window glass to both hardtop & soft top -- just when you get one part fitted nicely, a gap opens at an unexpected place. Take your time & have patience; nicely hung parallel & plumb pipe and clean, crisp extension exits with nice even mufflers readily visible.