1961 RPO 684 eccentric anchor pin & leading shoe ID
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
1961 RPO 684 eccentric anchor pin & leading shoe ID
My RPO 684 car has eccentric anchor pins( the pin in the center of the top of the backing plate that the shoe ends sit in) . Is there a procedure for adjusting these. When I rotate them I can increase or decrease drag. This isn't covered in ST-12.
second question, I'm not sure I understand how to tell lead shoe from lagging shoe. They are the fronts and have the same length.
second question, I'm not sure I understand how to tell lead shoe from lagging shoe. They are the fronts and have the same length.
#2
Safety Car
Jerry,
The one with less braking surface is the front (primary) shoe. On my RPO687 car, I just loosened the big nut on the back of the eccentric, and just slowly rotated the drum and adjusted the star wheel. I then turned the eccentric pin from the back until it created the most drag. There was a fair amount of trial and error, as I recall. Have fun!
Mike
The one with less braking surface is the front (primary) shoe. On my RPO687 car, I just loosened the big nut on the back of the eccentric, and just slowly rotated the drum and adjusted the star wheel. I then turned the eccentric pin from the back until it created the most drag. There was a fair amount of trial and error, as I recall. Have fun!
Mike
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Jerry,
The one with less braking surface is the front (primary) shoe. On my RPO687 car, I just loosened the big nut on the back of the eccentric, and just slowly rotated the drum and adjusted the star wheel. I then turned the eccentric pin from the back until it created the most drag. There was a fair amount of trial and error, as I recall. Have fun!
Mike
The one with less braking surface is the front (primary) shoe. On my RPO687 car, I just loosened the big nut on the back of the eccentric, and just slowly rotated the drum and adjusted the star wheel. I then turned the eccentric pin from the back until it created the most drag. There was a fair amount of trial and error, as I recall. Have fun!
Mike
I thought the purpose of the eccentric was to better balance the shoe contact between leading and trailing shoe.ie Center them in the drum. Not sure how adjusting to drag does that? I'm not saying it doesn't I just am having difficulty understanding physically whats happening. Theres a lot I don't know about drum brakes.
#4
Melting Slicks
Not sure I understand. Do you first center the eccentric and then adjust drag using the star wheel? Do you do a "normal" star wheel adjustment? ie expand until you get drag and then back-off a preset amount?
I thought the purpose of the eccentric was to better balance the shoe contact between leading and trailing shoe.ie Center them in the drum. Not sure how adjusting to drag does that? I'm not saying it doesn't I just am having difficulty understanding physically whats happening. Theres a lot I don't know about drum brakes.
I thought the purpose of the eccentric was to better balance the shoe contact between leading and trailing shoe.ie Center them in the drum. Not sure how adjusting to drag does that? I'm not saying it doesn't I just am having difficulty understanding physically whats happening. Theres a lot I don't know about drum brakes.
you are correct that the eccentric anchor is for the purpose of centralizing the shoes in the drum. The proper procedure for adjusting is to expand the shoes first with the star wheel till you feel a two handed drag, then loosen the nut on the anchor stud 3/4 turn, and rotate it till shoes are centralized. You should feel less drag as the shoes are centralized. If all drag disappears then snug up the anchor nut and repeat the process. The shoes are centralized when you feel the least drag. Then tighten anchor stud nut and adjust star wheel for final shoe adjustment. Hope that helps you.
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jerry gollnick (12-07-2016)
#5
Le Mans Master
Jerry;
you are correct that the eccentric anchor is for the purpose of centralizing the shoes in the drum. The proper procedure for adjusting is to expand the shoes first with the star wheel till you feel a two handed drag, then loosen the nut on the anchor stud 3/4 turn, and rotate it till shoes are centralized. You should feel less drag as the shoes are centralized. If all drag disappears then snug up the anchor nut and repeat the process. The shoes are centralized when you feel the least drag. Then tighten anchor stud nut and adjust star wheel for final shoe adjustment. Hope that helps you.
you are correct that the eccentric anchor is for the purpose of centralizing the shoes in the drum. The proper procedure for adjusting is to expand the shoes first with the star wheel till you feel a two handed drag, then loosen the nut on the anchor stud 3/4 turn, and rotate it till shoes are centralized. You should feel less drag as the shoes are centralized. If all drag disappears then snug up the anchor nut and repeat the process. The shoes are centralized when you feel the least drag. Then tighten anchor stud nut and adjust star wheel for final shoe adjustment. Hope that helps you.
I would also suggest that you hand fit or radius the new shoes to your drums.
Klaus, you might want to exchange phone numbers with Jerry for the purpose of info exchange on this brake issue. I race with Jerry
#7
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MANY years agio, shops that turned drums also had a machine to arch the shoes to fit the newly turned drums. Today VERY few places have the machine to arch shoes (WISH I HAD ONE!!!!!). I have my own brake lathe (bought it 6mo before a friend passed away) which I got for a song.
It has been at least 30yrs since I've seen a shop with the machine for arching shoes. All I know to do now is just let them "wear in" with time and use. The home made HD brakes that are on the 56 still are not fully seated into the drums, but they work great (for drum brakes).