diitto

Hi, I have a 2012 C6 Grand Sport, purchased new in that time, now with a little over 16,000 miles. I'm noticing what I think might be an initial slow first crank sometimes when I start it in the garage (northern ca, never very cold but does get down in the 40's).

Is a 4 1/2 year old, factory battery likely about due to be replaced???

thanks...

EVRose

I would say yes.

919cw313

Me too. I think most people agree that 4-5 years is a normal lifespan. Some people get 10, others 2 years though so there are always exceptions.
The lack of driving in your case doesn't help things either.

TerryL

If you think it does, it does. It's amazing what quirks and sounds occur with a failing battery.

enventr

I agree. I use a battery tender on mine because I do not use the vette that often. That will prolong the life of the battery. Living in Florida, I change my battery in approximately 4 years whether it needs it or not for peace of mind.

Don-Vette

When in doubt, throw the battery out.

EuroRod

FWIW....

After the GM original battery failed in 2006 in my 2005 C6, I replaced it with a Yellow Top. It failed within a year.

Thinking that the car was going to eat batteries, I purchased a relatively inexpensive Bosch from Pep Boys.

Still got it !!!!!

FortMorganAl

If you are extremely sensitive to how fast it turns over, then you might get a few more months out of that battery. If you have normal hearing then you need a new battery. Many don't recognize the slower starting that is one of the first signs of a slowly failing battery.

I'm one of those that gets 7 years or more out of a battery but it takes keeping it on a tender all the time not just when you expect to not be driving for a few days. I'll put the tender on in the evening even if I know I'll be driving in the morning. You don't mention tender usage so 4.5 years is easily time to change.

BTW, 40's is VERY cold! I had to put a jacket on to water the flowers because it was down in the 50's on my porch.

cclive

And you should make sure that your metal key works and that you can get into the car if the battery is dead...good prep.

diitto

Wow, So I posted my OP last night and hadn't even yet looked for responses yet today when I went out a bit ago to start the Corvette... Dead. Tried to sort of crank once but didn't get far. On a second try, I heard the click, click, click sound of the starter where the solenoid can't connect (or whatever).

I did all kinds of weird fob messages when it failed to start, like "check anti-lock brakes" and other strange stuff that I think is all bogus just related to low battery, right???

And yes, I am claustrophobic and mine is a vert so one of the first things I ever had anyone show me was the mechanical door releases on the bottom of each door. And yes, I have tried the mechanical key before but I will go do that again before I do more...

Out to go attempt to start it with jumper cables and another car we own.

So yes, I think I just learned that it truly is battery time... 4 years, 8 months.

Any suggestions on what to replace with??? I will likely take it to my local chevy dealership that specializes in Corvettes and likely will just put in whatever expensive battery they suggest. Other ideas??? thanks... bob

diitto

And is it really true that I need to try to get my negative Corvette connection on a small bolt they show that is on the front right side of the LS3 engine??? My, the plastic cowling gets in the way and makes it next to impossible to get one of these large jumper cable clamps on it. And all that is sort of near the fan as well. They say don't put the clamp where turning parts are going to hit it but how I can know that since the car is DEAD??? If I could see the parts moving I likely wouldn't be needing to jump start the car???

I've always hooked the negative right on to the negative battery and yes that does cause some sparks sometimes. What's the fear??? A hydrogen explosion??? Is there any other good ground someone can suggest on or around the engine block without having to try to connect to one that appears to be almost impossible to connect to??? (Taking that info from the manual and from the little drawing on top of the fuse container near the battery).

Any help would be way appreciated... thanks... bob

bassman50

Bob,

I like the Optima "Red Top" or "Yellow Top" batteries. Optimas are, I believe, made in Mexico (like many products these days) and they had some quality control issues a number of years back, but nowadays, they seem pretty decent. We have a red top in our other car, a 2011 Subaru, and have never had an issue with it. There are others who like the OEM Delco battery or the top tier batteries from AutoZone or O'Reilly's (or Pep Boys).

The Optima and some of the other more expensive batteries are the AGM (absorbed glass mat) type and are more durable to better withsatnd vibration and the like. I'd suggest an AGM battery, whatever the brand.

Steve

RocketDawg

I bought an AGM battery at AutoZone a couple of years ago and it's still going strong. It's their Platinum (most expensive) line. And they'll install it free while you wait. It's a lot less hassle than going to the dealer. As I recall, mine cost around $180 including tax. I think it has a 3-year replacement warranty, then prorated after that for maybe 5 years.

Not So Fast

My GS has the Auto Zone Gold battery, DLG85 I believe, been in there for over 2 years and doing just fine. Car sits for weeks at a time so I put a 2 amp charger on it from time to time and make sure its up to capacity, seems to be in great shape so far
NSF

HBsurfer

I just went with another AC Delco.

diitto

thanks for the input on buying a new battery... Yes, I will be buying one in the next couple days. Long story short I've been to hell and back in the past couple hours with more weird flashing dash lights, more strange DIC messages, more strange sounds coming from under the hood as some relays were clicking in some strange ways, apparently due to low voltage. Got locked in the car but knew of course about the manual handles. Then got locked OUT of the car but had already revisited how to use the mechanical key to open the trunk and then the pull handle to open the door. However, I would pull the handle, pop the door, but then walk around to it and each time it had not clear the lock or something. I would hard close the door, pop it again from the trunk, walk around to the door and same story, popped slightly open but not "openable"... Panic started to set in but I got my wife to come to the door. I hard closed it again and again popped it from the trunk but this time with her tugging on the door and it came right open. Whew... Tried three different times to jump start it. First time showed some promise but it just wouldn't fully pull in the solenoid and start. Second try seemed even better until suddenly all ceased to work, only to find that the negative connection on the engine bolt (gosh, what a tough place to have you hook up ground) had popped off. So three times is a charm, right??? Well, yes, it was... After the solenoid popping a number of times, it finally engaged and started right up. Must be a really bad cell or something... Took it out and drove it at good speed for 20 minutes or so. Brought it back, shut it off, and least one time (all I've tried) it started again. But at least now I know I can jump start it...

I parked it with the windows down. Also thought about lowering the covertible top but decided to leave that up. Gotta do something else tomorrow but Tuesday I will be either going to Napa Auto Parts, the only place we have here in our small town, or going to the nearby chevy dealer for a new battery there... I will have to read about some of these newer battery technologies, at least new to me.

Just went out after an hour and started it again. It cranked slow once and then started. Likely won't make it through the night without another jump.

Anyway, thanks for your input... bob

919cw313

I'd go with an Interstate from Costco.

Not So Fast

If it were me I would be at the battery store when it opens TOMORROW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
NSF

RocketDawg

I don't think I'd make a major deal out of the purchase ... nothing all that special about a Vette battery. NAPA should be able to fix you up quite well. Pretty sure the one I have is an 85 series, which is slightly different than the OEM but works fine and clamps down with no issue.

If you install it yourself, be careful and only loosen (instead of removing) the nuts on the battery cables. They are a special nut with a cone and if you drop one and lose it it's almost impossible to find a replacement. And you don't need to remove it to get the cable loose and off.

cclive

I tried there and they didn't have one for my '07...do they have one now? Group 90.