Vettesic

Changing old non orig master cylinder. is it necessary to change booster also? Wasnt giving me any problems.

Big2Bird

Nope

'75

If it Ain't broke....

DUB

BUT...if your master cylinder was leaking fluid from the back...and some of the fluid did get into your booster...in time...and no one knows when...the booster may begin to show signs of failing.

DUB

Vettesic

True. I thought of that possibility to. I'll know more when I get master out and check for signs of leakage into booster.

Vettesic

Noticed that the master cylinder or booster push rod seal is a bit tattered. Is it necessary to change this. If I can find replacement. Local parts supply don't stock. Found one on eBay that looks worse than mine. Does this seal vacuum ?

Big2Bird

That is just to keep debris out. You can reuse it, replace with an o-ring, or just leave it out. Id reuse it. Hard to find those anymore.

DUB

I am sure 'Booster Dewey' would have them...because he rebuild my power boosters.

I would put it back in and not look back...it does not look that bad.

DUB

'75

That is the front seal and holds vacuum, no boost without it and a huge vacuum leak.

Look up booster dewy online and call him, I did and got good service.

Vettesic

I'll call them tomorrow, but never had probs with power steering or vacuume leak from booster.

'75

That seal looks fine, but if you decide to replace it, booster dewy is the guy!

Vettesic

Spoke to Booster Dewey today. Ordered a new front booster seal so it's on way. While I'm waiting want to familiarize with removal if I ever have to. I removed seat and took a look under dash for booster bolts. Extremely tight situation. Am I correct in saying that the top left bolt is behind the clutch neutral safety switch? If so I can't even see it.

forman

its pretty sure i had to drop the panel and put three long extensions together then used a swivel end and taped it into place with a 9/16 socket ,, its real tight and the top left one is tough

DUB

I recently serviced a power brake booster on a 1969 with a manual transmission....and....all I did to get to the TOP LEFT nut was to disconnect the clutch push rod that goes through the firewall and it gave me access so when I used my 9/16'' swivel socket..I could get in there and get it out.

Putting that one back on does take a little bit of patience...but I am no Superman...so I know it can be done.

Actually the part I HATE the most is attaching the special clip that goes on the clevis pin that holds the booster clevis to the brake pedal. There is 'trick' in doing that also.

I know I would NOT drop out the speedo/tach cluster to do this booster...but you can do as you wish.

DUB

Vettesic

I think if I remove clutch safety switch it should give enough room to at least see that hidden bolt. I will keep the clutch push rod removal in mind. Maybe even lowering steering column would help a bit. When I get the new front booster seal in and system bleed down I can test booster with car running. As stated before never had a prob with the booster. Thanks!

DUB

Do as you wish...but you might find you will wish you took off the clutch push rod and pulled it towards the front of the car much easier and NO adjustments needed when you are done.....but do as you wish.

DUB