Jeremy91

Hey guys hoping someone can help me out with this. I've been looking to buy a c6 Z for a couple years now and finally my finances are in order. Anyways I've found a 2006 with only 12000kms but it's been parked (heated garage) for 4 years now. I've been told every spring it gets fired up and it's oil changed and two years ago fuel stabilizer was put in. I'm no mechanic so I'm not too sure what to look for or worry about but I know it's not a good thing to park a vehicle for that long. It's super low kms and owned by an older lady so it's almost definitely been babied. Any input on what to look for would be very appreciated. Thanks!

CorsoZ06

Has it been on a battery tender? Hopefully so. There's really not a huge deal letting a modern car sit for an extended (years) period. Putting it away with fresh oil is a biggie and it look like they were cognizant of that. Fuel stabilizer is the other, and that too seems to have been addressed. Climate controlled garage is the icing on the cake.

I would go look at the car, inspect for rodent damage as best you can. Check oil and coolant, just to make sure they are at adequate levels more than anything. Start up the car and let it idle until full operating temperature. Chances are there will be no drama.

If the car has a full tank of gas,you may want to consider getting at least 2/3 of the tank out, and refill with fresh gas. If it is already at 1/2 tank or less, just go ahead and top off with fresh fuel. Tires will be shot, so plan on changing those immediately. You may want to plan on a new battery too even if it was on a tender. Change oil/filter, coolant and all other fluids and you will be good to go. Keep us posted.

Unreal

I wouldn't touch a super low mileage car unless you are a collector who plans on keeping it that way stored in a sealed garage. I rather get one with normal mileage than low miles if price was the same.

CorsoZ06

I wouldn't consider 7500mi "super low" miles. Sub-10K mile C6 Corvettes are everywhere. If this car can be well-bought in terms of price there is absolutely no reason he shouldn't consider it.

OP, if you like the car, it checks out, and you can get it for a fair price, buy it.

Landru

Burning present tank out in first few hours of ownership's a breeze.
Add a bottle of Techtron w/ fill-up & done.
Literally a Z driven by a little old lady, a genuine garage queen.

Hopefully OP's aware of the urgent need to have valves/guides thoroughly checked for integrity. A must-do for any pre-owned Z.

Jeremy91

Thank you for the advice! I'm not too sure about the battery tender but I will ask. The fuel is roughly a 1/4 tank so shouldn't have to worry there. I'm checking it out Saturday so I'll keep you up to date.

Side note.. why wouldnt a guy want a low mile Z? And yes very aware of the valve dropping issue which would be addressed right away. That being said I haven't been able to find a common consensus on the fix for that. I've read guys go with the stainless valves but I've read a few times that they're heavier and cause the engine to be thrown off balance. Other guys are going with titanium and some are sticking with OEM. The only constant seems to be the brass valve guides. Opinions?

Unreal

Pick valves/guides based on your application and needs.

I've never had good luck with a very low mile older car. 10+ years old and <1k miles a year to me isn't something I would want to own. Seems like super low mileage cars just have more issues. Thats my personal experience. I much rather have a car that has at least 3k miles a year, regular oil changes, a chance for any factory issues to be worked out and fixed under warranty. Seals that get lubed from running. There is too much rubber/etc that just dries out on cars that sit.

Fast Cars & Horses

I bought my 2006 Z06 a year ago from the original owner who kept it covered in his garage, but regularly maintained it. Mileage was in the mid 20's. I drove it this year a lot plus went on several trips and it now has 43K problem free miles on it.

I didn't know about the head problem when I bought it, but learned on this forum. I'm no mechanic but I'm a great researcher and I read all the Katech LS7 material as well as the CAC 25 page (long) article on the LS7 with an extensive section on the valve guide problem. After reading these and much more, I decided on the AHP stage 4 head swap because of the stock titanium intake valves and Ferrea competition plus exhaust valves as well as the hardened aftermarket powder metal valve guides whcih are harder than brass. I felt like my research led me to believe this was the best combination for what I do (I will be autoXing the C6Z this year instead of my C5). They are actually being installed as we speak.

I always look for 1 owner low mileage cars and it hasn't failed me yet.

outhouse

Price more then anything.



Once purchased AHP heads and your good to go

meanjoe

Mine was 6 YO when I got it. Had 2400 miles on it. I've seen no evidence of anything wrong with it that may have been caused from sitting for so long. Checked the warranty history on it with the local dealer. Three batteries, go figure.

Unreal

I'm not saying 100% avoid super low mileage cars, but given the choice of a 06 with 3k miles or an 06 with 18k miles for same price in same condition, I would take the higher mileage one. I especially wouldn't pay extra for super low miles. If you could save 3-5k and use that for tires/heads/brakes/fluids/etc that all need to be done and will be new with zero miles, I much rather do that.

Jeremy91

Much appreciate the advice! This is also the option I've been leaning towards as well. Have to do a little more research on the guides but from what I've been gathering the powder metal is the better option. Hopefully I can find a shop around here that can do the work! Hahah let me know how the new set up runs/feels! Cheers 🍻

Fast Cars & Horses

Picked up the Z this afternoon, everything done except getting the RE71R tires on it in March and re-aligned. Stage 4 head swap from AHP, Strano front sway bar, Viking dual adj shocks, Hawk HP brake pads, lowered, dyno tuned for 93 octane...wow. I can't do any more, I have to stay A Street class legal. This car feels awesome! I thought it felt good before, but with it all ready to autoX, now I see a huge difference. It's glued to the ground and the power is instant, the lower gears are insane. I know it's more than the heads, but that was part of the puzzle. I can't wait to run it this spring. It dyno'd 476 RWHP and 470 torque, not bad for no other mods, I'll take it, perfect for what I do. Way worth the $$$$$

Jeremy91

Wow sounds like a wicked set up!! Little jealous hahah

Little update on the car I checked out... absolutely mint car! About 8k miles. Actually has original tires on the car and even wear from front to back so it's obvious it hasn't even been played with. Buuuut I noticed a small oil leak coming from the bottom and back of the engine.. pretty much impossible to tell where it's coming from being it's so low to the ground. Plan is to come check it out with a mechanic when the snow melts and I can get it to a shop. Any ideas on what it could be?? Big job?

CorsoZ06

Hard to say... Back of engine could be rear main seal. Had to do rear main seal on my LS2 at like 800 miles. Of my six other LSx motors I've owned through the years, that was the only rear main seal leak I've ever had.

*Edit* Yes, it's a big job.

Jeremy91

The car is pretty well priced and like I said stunning condition, so even if I had to put a couple grand it would still be worth it. Just don't want to have to end up dropping a **** ton of money into it..

Jeremy91

Is that quite a big job? Excuse my lack of mechanical knowledge.. I was told that involves dropping the tranny?

CorsoZ06

It is. if the leak is small, which it likely is, my advice would be to just live with it until you need to do a clutch, then fix it at that time.

American Heritage

You have to drop the entire drive line (rear cradle, differential, transmission, torque tube). Then you pull the clutch pack to get at the rear main seal. You then remove the seal and install with A Kent Moore Specialty tool to ensue its installed 100% correctly.

If you end up doing the rear main you mind as well install a new clutch pack.

Also check the rear cove gasket for leaking/spraying while your in there

http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/home.html

eshuber

Oil leak on my Z appeared at 13k miles from new - it was the oil pan gasket which seems to be fairly common. Mechanic had to drop the engine cradle - not trivial. He did say a rear main seal leak was rare - at least to him. FYI