viktors94

Hey guys.

I need some opinions on what type of rotors and pattern I should get.

Ive decided to change the rotors due to some vibrations at higher speeds, 80mph+ when applying really light braking. The pedal are not vibrating, but the whole car shakes.

I recently put on z06 dampers all the way around since one of the rear shocks was shot(left rear of the car was bouncing on bumps etc). I got some new pirellis coming in to be mounted in the front(corsas in the rear at the moment and oem E F1 runflats in the front). I just replaced the rear cause they were worn out and had to prioritize since waterpump, endlinks and shocks had to replaced aswell and Im a student.

Is it possible that the eagle f1's are causing the vibration? They were mounted when I bought it and dont know how old they are(thinking of flatspots etc from bad storage-methods?), and I havent got them balanced.

I've ordered some new brake-pads to all 4 corners, and thinking of getting rotors aswell.

I have OEM z51 drilled rotors, with a slight edge(can feel it with my nail but not alot). There are also no cracks as far as I can see.

Here's my options:
OEM rotors(drilled), 159$ each front, 130$ each rear

EBC blanks with whatever pattern I want, 135$ each front, 110$ each rear)

another supplier offers another brand, cant remember but they are slotted and dimpled(not drilled) 130$ each front, 100$ each rear.

Power Stop drill and slotted, 140$ each front, 120$ each rear.

If I go with the EBC blanks, I can choose the pattern(i.e. how many slots, dimpled or not, orientation of slots etc).

What should I go with or should I wait for the new front tires and alignment before replacing the rotors since the pedal is not pulsating?

Whats the best pattern to go with if I go with the EBC blanks? Straight or curved slots? etc.

Thanks in advance,
Viktor

919cw313

I can't see how tires would cause a vibration only when braking.

You up can get ac Delco rotors for about half the price of your oem quote.

Seadawg

I've seen tires cause vibration, especially since you said you had a shock related issue, that can cause the tires to "cup".

Odds are, you will not need new rotors, they rarely warp, just get too thin. If you only have a very small groove on the edge, they should be fine for street use.

I would replace the tires first, and get an alignment on the car. It will pay for itself it tire life. Get a "street alignment" done, search out here, and you will find the specs to show the alignment shop for your particular year and model vette.

Then, check the end links. If shocks are bad, end links could be too. If you are mechanically inclined, you can easily install them yourself. Search out here, there are DIY instructions.

If your brake pads are worn to the point of squealing (hitting the wear indicators, and you will know it, it will also sound like grinding), I would start with ceramic pads first. Again, do a search, and you will find many brands are recommended.

I would also read the sticky at the top of this forum for C6 info, it will really help you learn about the vette.

viktors94

I can't unfortunately get the OEM rotors cheaper since I need to pay for shipping to Sweden aswell as taxes (30% of total value + shipping). So 150$ is the cheapest I can get OEM rotors for the front here.

Hi and thanks for the answer.

I forgot to add that to OP, all of the endlinks has been changed out to PFADT HD endlinks. I replaced them 30 miles ago including all swaybar bushings and new ride-height bolts.

The alignment Im going for is the PFADT street-alignment.

The pads are not worn, but its such a small cost so people here in Sweden usually change them after each winter(thats why I cant take the car out and see if the vibration are still there after the shocks has been replaced now). I went with HP+'s, but Ill wait with them until I got the new tires mounted and aligned then, incase I need new rotors.

But what if I need new rotors, what should I go with? Would be nice to know since I dont want the car to be standing when the season has started.

Thanks viktor

Seadawg

For the street, I personally feel all will do the job, it is just a matter of preference and "look".

I see folks at the Daytona Speedway at HDPE events using everything from the stock drilled rotors, to the 2 piece styles, all brands.

It depends on how hard you push it on the track, on whether to go with the more expensive rotors.

I've always used the AC Delco OEM rotors (even for track days), but recently bought a set of PowerStop drilled/slotted for my next rotor change. I only bought them because I got them on sale, and figured I'd give them a try.

So, you really should be fine in Sweden for whichever you decide to use

mikeCsix

How many miles/kilometers are on the car?

I would replace tires and get a wheel alignment before anything else, If you have worn suspension components, the wheel alignment will indicate what is worn out before spending money on brakes.

I'm partial to DBA rotors, I use them on my GS but I also track my car which being a student, you probably are not doing as it gets expensive very fast.

Looks like EBC will give you the best prices and should be fine for a street car. Ceramic pads will give you less brake pad dust. Hawk makes them so they may be readily available to you. Since it sounds like EBC is also easily acquired, I might look at their pads too, especially for pricing.

mikeCsix

Lastly, personally I do not like drilled rotors. They look good and "high tech" but the reality is, the plain rotors give you the most swept area for the brake pads to work with. My preference is for curved/slotted rotors.

acesx4

AC delco slotted & drilled rotor"s!!

buckmeister2

[QUOTE=viktors94;1593899098]I can't unfortunately get the OEM rotors cheaper since I need to pay for shipping to Sweden aswell as taxes (30% of total value + shipping). So 150$ is the cheapest I can get OEM rotors for the front here.


Viktor, have you had the rotors checked to see if you can just get them turned to specs? Would be a lot cheaper than having new rotors shipped and installed.

viktors94

[QUOTE=buckmeister2;1593906381]I havent checked the rotors for runout, however, its hard to find somebody here who is turning rotors, the ones ive found want around 60$ per rotor, which means that I Can get new ones if i double the price.

but i will do as everyone here has said. Install the new tires and get it aligned and see if the vibrations are still there.

thanks for the Help guys