Gangle

All ,

I have installed a Lakewood Scatter Shield bell housing with a block plate onto a 383 SBC. The block plate keeps the starter to far away to engage the flywheel. I am going to notch out the block plate to get the starter to sit flush with the block, right now it sits the width of the block plate away which is about 3/16 inch. The unfortunate part is everything is already installed. Has anyone run into this and any help or easier solutions would be helpful. I have already tried a power master starter and returned that for a Mini High Torque starter.

Thanks in advance for any help

R66

The block plate is flush with the back of the block. The flywheel bolts on the crankshaft. I see no way the block plate is the problem. The starter engages the flywheel ring gear. I don't think you can install the ring gear improperly, but maybe.

Does your starter bolt to the block or to the scatter shield??
Are you running a stock flywheel or aftermarket. I assume the flywheel is properly mounted on the back of the crank with no spacers??

ohiovet

No problem with the Lakewood bell housing with block plate on my 327 using a standard GM starter.

larrywalk

You will need to clearance the hole for the starter in the block plate. I had to do this many years ago to use the plate with a 153 tooth flywheel and its starter.

jim lockwood

I don't see how this problem can happen.

Both of our track cars have Lakewood scattershields, and 153 tooth flywheels. One car runs a stock Delco starter and one runs a PowerMaster mini starter. Everything fits and works like it should.

Before you (the OP) start cutting on the block plate, in my opinion, you ought to find out what the real problem is.

Jim

R66

Wait a minute, are you saying your starter will not come close enough to the center of the flywheel to engage the ring gear?? Are you using the 153 tooth flywheel or 168 tooth flywheel?

OK, are you using the straight or staggered bolt pattern starter nose?

I am guessing the OP has a 153 tooth flywheel with starters for the 168 tooth flywheel. Sorry it took 12 hours for it to sink in.

66jack

Wrong Block Plate?...

AZDoug

That would be my thought.

The front/back distance between the starter and FW is not affected by the block plate.


Doug

Gangle

It mounts to the block and is a staggered bolt pattern. The starter will work sometimes and either seems to shift or move away. The block plate seems to hold the bell housing further away from the staggered bolt holes on the block.

Gangle

I am guessing you did the notch out on the block plate and the head was clear to slip in ? Did you have to grind the nose at all ? I am also running headers that will not work with a stock starter.

Gangle

I hope not , it came with the the bell housing and everything seemed to line up with the bolt patterns.

Gangle

Doug,

Block sits away from the bell housing about 3/16 of and inch from the block. When I screw into the staggered bolt pattern holes you can actually see that much of a gap between the starter and the plate.Am i missing something or the starter should sit flush ?

Gangle

Jim,

Dont mean to sound like a stupid question just trying to be 110 % sure both applications have the block plate in between the scatter shield and block ?

Gangle

Starter can do both . I bought a mini high torque starter with a staggered bolt pattern

vettsplit 63

I can remember the block plate on one of my Lakewood equipped cars had another slightly overlapping lightly cutout piece of plate at the starter hole that i guess they made so you could remove it easily if using a different starter and flywheel combination i guess. I also used an L88 HD starter on another project with a 621 bellhousing and 168 tooth flywheel, and I remember having to grind some clearance inside the starter hole of the bellhousing for the big nose on the starter before it would .clear

jim lockwood

Not a stupid question at all. Yes, both cars have the block plate.

Gangle

Jim,

Are the starters staggered bolt patterns ? Dont know if it makes any difference the holes in the block are the holes in the block they are not moving. There was a power master in there with an alum bell housing and had no issues. What type of exhaust are you running with the Delco to get it to fit ? I have Dougs Headers and having clearance issues with the stock ones. I am going to call Lakewood tomorrow and see what they suggest. I agree with you I find it hard to believe that this set up would be this difficult to line up a starter. I hopefully can come back with a better answer , If not I will attach some pics to get a better idea

Thanks for responding

Gangle

Yes you have to cut out a section of the plate and sometimes a little nose grinding to get a stock one in. I am hoping for an easier solution since everything is together. I was able to get a few cranks out of it before it started acting up.

Thanks for the input

Gangle

On a side note like the pic of your car. I hope to be joining you soon in repaving the highways with rubber made by MT

66jack

Just got this of Jegs/Lakwoods website..

http://www.jegs.com/p/Lakewood/Lakew...46185/10002/-1

NOTES
1. Not compatible with 1965-Earlier Bendix-type starters
2. Due to very close tolerances, bellhousings must be dialed-in to ensure proper flywheel clearance.
3. On 1981-Later Mustang, we suggest upgrading the linkage to Hays #490-76-228 (heavy-duty clutch cable & billet aluminum clutch quadrant).

:::EDIT:::

Even though it shows mustang, thats the way the search showed