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A few weeks ago we had threads here on Vintage Air as well as serpentine belts. I thought I'd post some pics my 63 fuelie with its new Vintage Air combined with their Fronrunner package. Very compact, also has a puller fan and the belt driven one.
The front runner system makes all the difference in the world. It takes away a lot of that add on look.
Nice job. Enjoy the ride now that you can have the choice of top down or A/C on.
Thanks guys. Couldn't get the fuelie air cleaner on without going to the Front Runner, as the alternator was hanging off of the drivers side of the engine. It just looks so much cleaner now, doesn't detract from the look of the fuelie engine. Had to change the crank pulley of the Front Runner to a smaller diameter, to clear the frame.
This is a pic of the whole car, (missing the spinners on the wheels)
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Last edited by Vettrocious; 01-22-2017 at 06:49 PM.
It's different from the one that came with the Vintage Air system, but it was supplied with the Front Runner by the Vintage Air people. I'm sure that if you order them together (I didn't), you'll get the one currently on the car.
They filled in the holes for the "FUEL INJECTION" bars during paint, I'm thinking of maybe putting on the older script. What does everybody think...
(Remember, this car is not remotely stock, Tremek, steeroids rack & pinion, Vintage Air, Front Runner, Detroit Speed headlight motors, Tanks Inc. fuel tanks/ internal pump, disc brakes, Silver interior, and a bunch of other stuff...
They filled in the holes for the "FUEL INJECTION" bars during paint, I'm thinking of maybe putting on the older script. What does everybody think...
(Remember, this car is not remotely stock, Tremek, steeroids rack & pinion, Vintage Air, Front Runner, Detroit Speed headlight motors, Tanks Inc. fuel tanks/ internal pump, disc brakes, Silver interior, and a bunch of other stuff...
Those are great mods you have, but they are all stealth. A modified script would not fit your theme, it make it look like a hybrid. I would go with the stock 63 FI emblems.
Those are great mods you have, but they are all stealth. A modified script would not fit your theme, it make it look like a hybrid. I would go with the stock 63 FI emblems.
although there is nothing that irritates me more than seeing an open hood with a TPI injection unit and traditional FI badges... in your case, the 'traditional' 63 emblems work as that is the correct style of injection for the car...
I remember, once upon a time, locally seeing a 57 chevy driving down the road that had the traditional 57 chevy FI script on the fenders. I hunted for that car for a long time as I have/had never seen a FI'd 57 chevy... when I finally found it, I was disappointed; just some 'run-of-the-mill' TPI unit....
although there is nothing that irritates me more than seeing an open hood with a TPI injection unit and traditional FI badges... in your case, the 'traditional' 63 emblems work as that is the correct style of injection for the car...
I remember, once upon a time, locally seeing a 57 chevy driving down the road that had the traditional 57 chevy FI script on the fenders. I hunted for that car for a long time as I have/had never seen a FI'd 57 chevy... when I finally found it, I was disappointed; just some 'run-of-the-mill' TPI unit....
Bill
Thanks Bill, actually, I'm going to monitor the car for a while to see how the original Rochester FI operates in the temperature environment created by all my mods. If it performs well, I'll leave it alone. Since the fuel lines are now at the rear passenger side of the engine bay, away from the exhaust, I expect the fuel to stay cooler. We'll see..
If fuel heating becomes a problem, I've prepared it to put on my altered Rochester plenum with FAST port EFI. The car has a bung in the exhaust, a electric fuel pump in the tank, a fuel return line and, a pressure regulator, so the EFI should be an "easy" change.
I guess, even then, it'll still a Rochester, in some respects, so I'll put the 63 badges back on...
Mike
Last edited by Vettrocious; 01-24-2017 at 06:25 AM.
The car has a bung in the exhaust, a electric fuel pump in the tank, a fuel return line and, a pressure regulator, so the EFI should be an "easy" change.
I presume you would need to change your pump in the tank to a high flow model?
Thanks Bill, actually, I'm going to monitor the car for a while to see how the original Rochester FI operates in the temperature environment created by all my mods. If it performs well, I'll leave it alone. Since the fuel lines are now at the rear passenger side of the engine bay, away from the exhaust, I expect the fuel to stay cooler. We'll see..
If fuel heating becomes a problem, I've prepared it to put on my altered Rochester plenum with FAST port EFI. The car has a bung in the exhaust, a electric fuel pump in the tank, a fuel return line and, a pressure regulator, so the EFI should be an "easy" change.
I guess, even then, it'll still a Rochester, in some respects, so I'll put the 63 badges back on...
Mike
yep, that's the way I see it (and have done it.....)
I presume you would need to change your pump in the tank to a high flow model?
The pump will stay the same, I'll just have to change the spring in the bypass regulator to the high pressure spring that came with it. The spring that is in it now allows up to about twenty PSI, today it's set to about 9 PSI for the mechanical Rochester. The other spring will kick the pressure up to the EFI level.
Mike
Last edited by Vettrocious; 01-24-2017 at 09:57 AM.
Are you using the Aeromotive Universal Bypass Regulator No. 13301? Tanks, Inc., Rock Valley or Aeromotive Stealth Fuel System for the tank? Does having the return line and in tank pump keep your fuel cool enough to run pump gas?
Are you using the Aeromotive Universal Bypass Regulator No. 13301? Tanks, Inc., Rock Valley or Aeromotive Stealth Fuel System for the tank? Does having the return line and in tank pump keep your fuel cool enough to run pump gas?
The regulator is Aeromotive 13301, the tank is Tanks, Inc. TM33A-T, with a GPA series in-tank pump (GPA is an Aeromotive pump, I believe). Here's the tank, with sending unit attached and the pump just sitting in it...
The car has not been driven yet, just run. I don't think fuel temperature will be an issue. The jury is still out on fuel temperature inside the Rochester unit, but the unit should run fine if the underhood temp doesn't get too high due to the A/C. I don't think the return line will help the Rochester stay cool, but maybe the new line routing (away from the exhaust manifold) will. I never run E10 pump gas in my fuelies, so fuel problems don't occur too often. Usually I run 90 octane non-ethanol gas, with a gallon (or more) of 110 racing gas per tank to raise the octane a bit.
If and when I switch to EFI I'm going to monitor the fuel temp in the tank...I have no idea what it will be, but I can add a fuel cooler if necessary...
Mike
Last edited by Vettrocious; 01-24-2017 at 11:05 PM.
The car has not been driven yet, just run. I don't think fuel temperature will be an issue. The jury is still out on fuel temperature inside the Rochester unit, but the unit should run fine if the underhood temp doesn't get too high due to the A/C. I don't think the return line will help the Rochester stay cool, but maybe the new line routing (away from the exhaust manifold) will. I never run E10 pump gas in my fuelies, so fuel problems don't occur too often. Usually I run 90 octane non-ethanol gas, with a gallon (or more) of 110 racing gas per tank to raise the octane a bit.
If and when I switch to EFI I'm going to monitor the fuel temp in the tank...I have no idea what it will be, but I can add a fuel cooler if necessary...
Mike[/QUOTE]
the problem with the Rochester perc has less (if in fact, nada...) to do with temps in the tank than the radiated heat affecting the spider from the engine itself. In fact, the C2 units are less susceptible to perc than the C1 units because the C2 spider has a constant flow return from the spider hub to the Rochester fuel pump whereas the C1 unit is deadheaded to the nozzles.
the problem with the Rochester perc has less (if in fact, nada...) to do with temps in the tank than the radiated heat affecting the spider from the engine itself. In fact, the C2 units are less susceptible to perc than the C1 units because the C2 spider has a constant flow return from the spider hub to the Rochester fuel pump whereas the C1 unit is deadheaded to the nozzles.
Bill
I agree, Bill. Radiant heat to the spider is a big issue, but not the sole one. This car, before I re-did it, is the one whose fuel lines I insulated from under the battery to the fuel inlet. After insulation, the fuel inlet temp was 30 degrees cooler and that made a big difference. It also helped on starts to put insulation between the spider and the base plate, reducing the radiant heat on the spider. It actually ran great, even on trips, when I had no choice but to use E10. Now I've gone a step further and moved the fuel line away from the exhaust manifold, gotten rid of the engine-mounted fuel pump, and taken the fuel filter off of the manifold.
I don't think that feeding warm fuel back to the tank from the regulator hurts much, but it doesn't do anything for the fuel injection. As I'm sure you know, any vapor created in the hot fuel lines is dissipated when the fuel pours into the fuel bowl. The gear pump inlets only fuel, so if there is any vaporized fuel, in the spider, it was vaporized somewhere after the gear pump. As the spider lines are so fine, and made of the best heat transfer metal, with only low pressure fuel inside, they easily form bubbles of fuel vapor. So, keeping the fuel as cool as possible when it enters those lines is important, while trying to keep the lines themselves from absorbing to much radiant heat is essential.
My feeling is, keeping the engine compartment temp down is part of the whole issue, I don't how big a part, I guess I'll find out when I turn on the A/C for the first time and go for a ride on an 85 degree day. I'm hoping it's not a big deal, as I'd like to keep the Rochester stock.
01-21-2017, 10:31 PM
63 Fuelie with Vintage Air
although there is nothing that irritates me more than seeing an open hood with a TPI injection unit and traditional FI badges... in your case, the 'traditional' 63 emblems work as that is the correct style of injection for the car...
