classof05

Hello all, I am new to this forum but I decided to sign-up because of an incident that occurred last week.

I was backing out of a tight parking spot at my local Subway restaurant. (Between a curb on the left; a car on the right of me)
Long story short, I had to repeatedly inch my way in & out of the park in order to remove my vehicle out of the space (Reverse, drive, reverse, drive, etc.)
As soon as I began to take off out of the driveway, my check engine light popped on my dash cluster.
I was thinking to myself maybe its because I just filled the car up at the gas station earlier that morning; maybe its a loose gas cap.

I proceeded home, drove my car into the garage, & plugged my OBD scanner up to the vehicle.
When I did, these are the codes that I received:

P0894:
Transmission Component Slipping

P0700:
Transmission Control System Malfunciton

This past Thursday I dropped the car off to the dealership; I wanted to get this looked into more closely. I was informed on Saturday with the negative news that my car will need its transmission replaced or serviced/rebuild.

My question is: What option should I go with?
Rebuild the current transmission, buy a completely new unit from my local dealership, or purchased a aftermarket transmission via the web?

jim2092

Two questions first.

Do you want more performance from your transmission when rebuilt or replaced?

Which costs less from the dealer? new or rebuilt.

classof05

I would prefer to acquire a more powerful transmission.
More stability; less prone to "break again"
Better performance; shift kit, etc.

The dealer quoted me this over the phone:
New Trans. from the dealer/ installed -- $4000
Rebuild the existing Trans. by dealer --- $3200-$3600

daveholl

Had my '05 transmission rebuilt by a local shop. Transmission work is his specialty and he's good at it. Cost was $2600.
History was, I had it flushed by a dealer 3 years ago at 56K miles. Several months down the road it went into limp mode and a stuttered acceleration. The shop, mentioned above, drained fluid, inspected, and found bits and pieces of debris throughout.
So far, so good after a rebuild.

classof05

I have yet to feel any symptoms of damage while I'm driving the car. It runs strong & seem to be shifting smoothly.
The only signs that point to there being problems within the unit is the Scanner Codes & the Check Engine Light that's illuminated.

unstressed

I think I'd drive that car in its current condition until I felt some actual slippage or something. Not like it's gonna explode.

If you delete the CEL with a scanner, does it come right back?

How many miles are on the car?

classof05

I thought about that but here's the thing...I currently moved back to Atlanta. In the state of Georgia your car must pass the Emissions test in order to get Tags, Plates, etc.

My scanner is able to tell me whether or not the vehicle will "pass" an emissions test. I ran the mock-emissions test and kept red lighting those codes pertaining to the transmission. Long story short...they vehicle probably won't pass the test.

I have not tried to "clear" the code because I wanted it to be present when I took it to the dealer. Actually the car is still at the dealership until I decide what my next move will be.

The car has 151k on the cluster window.

jim2092

Contact forum member Subfloor@centurytrans , he has a great tranny rebuilding supplier and he has advanced knowledge of what will cause you to fail emissions testing.

RicK T

I suggest getting a second opinion from an independent shop. It could be a spurious fault code that doesn't actually exist, maybe just something to do with the way you were operating it right before the light came on. The dealer has seen it now. Clear the code and see what happens. Those 4L65E transmissions are pretty stout.

Ahrmike

Right before you go in to get it swapped/fixed, do one thing: Replace ALL the fluid with brand new TF. Add a little friction modifier bit by bit. At worst, you will waste 50-60 dollars on TF. At best, you may fix the issue.

Don't do it before youre ready to swap it though, i have heard sometimes the gritty crap floating in the trans keeps your belts grabbing...and going to all new fluid causes more slippage.

classof05

This is a snap pic of what came across my scanner when I ran the emissions app:

classof05

Thanks guys for all of the insightful suggestions.
That's exactly what I was thinking; Get a second opinion from a reputable transmission shop.

The car is currently out-of-state but I plan to go pick it up from the dealer within a week or two. I will then move forward with a more in-depth diagnose.

HOXXOH

Plug the part number 12491926 into google and find the closest supplier to order a new one. A quick search by me found one under $1900 with a rebuildable core. A halfway competent shop could do the swap for less than $400 including fluid. If you're looking for future performance increases, swapping the converter for a higher stall would add nothing to the labor cost and would ensure that you have all new fluid for the new trans. Depending on the stall speed, you may want an aftermarket cooler too.
Make some lemonade out of this lemon.

classof05

I would like to add a shift kit to the transmission since a swap/repair would have to be performed either way.
Got this same exact B&M Shift Kit; brand new in the box (purchased it for a '94 Z28 I had some time ago)



Yes, I understand that 4th gen Camaros = 4l60e & the C6 Vette = 4l65e...Would this kit work with this unit or not?

HOXXOH

Ask B&M. I'd guess there is contact info on the package.

jim2092

Find a performance transmission shop you trust and let them decide what to put in it. Why try and use something for a different year and vehicle?

classof05

I just got off of the phone w/ them...It won't work.
Figured it wouldn't be compatible but I decided to make sure since I had the kit already in hand.

B-Vette

Have you considered a RPM Transmission Level 2 Differential from Lingenfelter?

Part Number: RPML2C6

$1,795.00

classof05

No I haven't...I was basically questioning the fitment of the B&M Shift Kit because I already have it in hand.

At the moment I'm actually concerned about this "Check Engine" light (alleged Transmission issue) more than anything.

pjazz

I'd change the fluid and wait to see if it breaks.