[C1] rear brake drum stuck on axle
#1
Le Mans Master
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rear brake drum stuck on axle
How do I get the brake drum off? The brake is not on since I can rotate the wheel. I can tell it is stuck over the axle. This is on the rear passenger side.
#2
This could be one of two things.
First is the drum has rusted to the hub. A few sharp blows from a hammer should break the rust free and the drum should be able to be wiggled back and forth to remove. Use some spray oil or rust remover (Liquid wrench, PB Blaster, etc.) to help.
if you still can't, you need a very large puller with arms that reach around the drum.
Second is the drum has a ridge in the back from wear. The shoes are loose enough to allow the drum to turn but too tight to let it slide off. Back off the star wheel to loosen the shoes and then it should come off. two ways on most to get tot he star wheel. Some drums have a knock-out hole on the face of the drum and some have this on the backing plate. They don't knock out easy, and you need a rubber plug to fill the hole when done.
First is the drum has rusted to the hub. A few sharp blows from a hammer should break the rust free and the drum should be able to be wiggled back and forth to remove. Use some spray oil or rust remover (Liquid wrench, PB Blaster, etc.) to help.
if you still can't, you need a very large puller with arms that reach around the drum.
Second is the drum has a ridge in the back from wear. The shoes are loose enough to allow the drum to turn but too tight to let it slide off. Back off the star wheel to loosen the shoes and then it should come off. two ways on most to get tot he star wheel. Some drums have a knock-out hole on the face of the drum and some have this on the backing plate. They don't knock out easy, and you need a rubber plug to fill the hole when done.
Last edited by Mark_Milner; 01-23-2017 at 11:11 AM.
#5
Team Owner
#6
Instructor
I have had this problem a time or two on my 1931 Chevrolet....important as mentioned to make sure the brake shoes are completely loosened. A couple methods have worked for me.
1) leaving the wheel/tire attached to the hub, jack the rear end up, loosen the axle nut as far as you can while leaving it on, and then with a heavy hammer hit the tire from the back side and it should pop the hub off the axle. Careful of the rebound ha.
2) last resort was to leave the tire on again, loosen the hub nut again as much as you can without removing, and with the car lowered to the floor, use the weigh of the car - rocking it side to side to help slip the hub off the axle.
3) one seasoned mechanic recommended to me to loosen the axle nut a bit and take the car around the driveway making some turns-never had the guts to try this one though...
Good luck - the seasoned mechanics in the old Chevy club did not mind passing on the hints to a young pup...
John
1) leaving the wheel/tire attached to the hub, jack the rear end up, loosen the axle nut as far as you can while leaving it on, and then with a heavy hammer hit the tire from the back side and it should pop the hub off the axle. Careful of the rebound ha.
2) last resort was to leave the tire on again, loosen the hub nut again as much as you can without removing, and with the car lowered to the floor, use the weigh of the car - rocking it side to side to help slip the hub off the axle.
3) one seasoned mechanic recommended to me to loosen the axle nut a bit and take the car around the driveway making some turns-never had the guts to try this one though...
Good luck - the seasoned mechanics in the old Chevy club did not mind passing on the hints to a young pup...
John
#7
Drifting
RON
#8
Advanced
If you can see it "move on the studs", then it's NOT stuck on the hub. As someone said above, there is probably a "lip" on the inside edge of the drum and the brake shoes are too big to pass the lip. Adjust the shoes "in", and the drum will come off. If the studs move in & out with the drum, then it is rusted to the end of the axle, and penetrating oil and a BFH should do the trick. Let us know how you make out.
RON
A little torch heat and it popped right off
Last edited by cannonsid; 01-23-2017 at 01:42 PM. Reason: Typo
#9
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Just in case the shoes are hung on a lip on the inside of the drum but not stuck on the axle, you can work the drum over the shoes by walking a couple pry tools between the drum and backing plate. Once you get the shoe started over the lip, the shoes will retract a little and you can worke the drum off the shoes. Being careful not to bend the backing plate.
#10
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I have used a short 3 pound sledge for the past 35 years with good results. A couple of sharp smacks on the drum between the wheel studs will break it loose easily without damaging the drum or axle. Great tool for separating tie rod ends and center links, too!
#13
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Really, the only reason I want to take it off is because it rubs and I can hear it down the road. I know its the brakes since I can feel it rubbing on one area of the drum as I rotate it.
Also, I have three more drums sitting in the corner of the garage. I want to see if these do the same and check the brake pads after I did the work about five years ago. Only about 1500 miles when I first did the work.
Also, I have three more drums sitting in the corner of the garage. I want to see if these do the same and check the brake pads after I did the work about five years ago. Only about 1500 miles when I first did the work.
#14
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Update... I was able to get the drum off. PB Blaster, leverage and some brute strength. It was just stuck on the axle. Anyways, I put another one on and it rubs worst.
I adjusted the adjusters and put the old drum back on.
Really, I just wanted to take the drum off to inspect the brake pads and drum.
I adjusted the adjusters and put the old drum back on.
Really, I just wanted to take the drum off to inspect the brake pads and drum.
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St. Jude Donor '07
Update... I was able to get the drum off. PB Blaster, leverage and some brute strength. It was just stuck on the axle. Anyways, I put another one on and it rubs worst.
I adjusted the adjusters and put the old drum back on.
Really, I just wanted to take the drum off to inspect the brake pads and drum.
I adjusted the adjusters and put the old drum back on.
Really, I just wanted to take the drum off to inspect the brake pads and drum.
Bill
#16
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Update... I was able to get the drum off. PB Blaster, leverage and some brute strength. It was just stuck on the axle. Anyways, I put another one on and it rubs worst.
I adjusted the adjusters and put the old drum back on.
Really, I just wanted to take the drum off to inspect the brake pads and drum.
I adjusted the adjusters and put the old drum back on.
Really, I just wanted to take the drum off to inspect the brake pads and drum.
Even with a brand new drum, putting it on a rusty flange will result in the same issue.
And I always mark the drum and a lug stud when removing a drum, and then replace it in the same position, since I want to keep the same alignment (of drum running free of rub that I made previously).
Also note that drum rub can be a sign of a bent axle, or a flange that is no longer "true". I have seen a few of these.......If the flange is not running true (within .002" TIR lateral runout), I have used thin shims (thin large washers) over the studs, between the flange and drum to achieve a true running drum.
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 01-26-2017 at 09:32 AM.
#17
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Assuming that the axle flange area is rusty, then that rust will "cant" the drum, and any drum you put on will probably rub. Both the flange and the drum should be free of any material (rust, etc.) that causes the drum to not sit true to the flange.
Even with a brand new drum, putting it on a rusty flange will result in the same issue.
And I always mark the drum and a lug stud when removing a drum, and then replace it in the same position, since I want to keep the same alignment (of drum running free of rub that I made previously).
Also note that drum rub can be a sign of a bent axle, or a flange that is no longer "true". I have seen a few of these.......If the flange is not running true (within .002" TIR lateral runout), I have used thin shims (thin large washers) over the studs, between the flange and drum to achieve a true running drum.
Plasticman
Even with a brand new drum, putting it on a rusty flange will result in the same issue.
And I always mark the drum and a lug stud when removing a drum, and then replace it in the same position, since I want to keep the same alignment (of drum running free of rub that I made previously).
Also note that drum rub can be a sign of a bent axle, or a flange that is no longer "true". I have seen a few of these.......If the flange is not running true (within .002" TIR lateral runout), I have used thin shims (thin large washers) over the studs, between the flange and drum to achieve a true running drum.
Plasticman
Its not rubbing now. I think the adjusters just needed some tweaking. I never went back and adjusted the rear brakes after finishing the chassis rebuild.
#19
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Never seize would not help. It was more the edge has been beaten up but abuse. I could grind down the flange ever so slightly to make it come off easier. Then again I could just leave it alone and take the car out for a spin. I more for the later... Things are fine for now, its not like I am going to replace the brakes anytime soon.
Thanks for the help!