1958 290FI new motor won't rev to redline
#1
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1958 290FI new motor won't rev to redline
Last summer I had my motor rebuilt.
During the process I replaced the Keith Black high compression pistons (several cracked skirts) with stock style flat top pistons.
I still have the solid lifters and high performance cam and stock 900R fuel injection set up.
The only thing besides the pistons that is not stock are the 1964 FI single point distributor and MSD ignition.
After breaking in I tried winding it up but it falls short of the 6200 rpm redline getting only to about 5600 or so.
Didn't seem like a big deal until I rode in a friends 61 2x4 Corvette with dual points.
It would easily wind up to 6200 redline.
I need the experts to chime in please.
Is it not possible for single points to rev that high?
I really don't want to go to the expense of changing to a dual point distributor just get the last bit of RPMs out of it.
Would replacing the points with a Pertronics module do the trick?
I would appreciate any suggestions.
Thx
During the process I replaced the Keith Black high compression pistons (several cracked skirts) with stock style flat top pistons.
I still have the solid lifters and high performance cam and stock 900R fuel injection set up.
The only thing besides the pistons that is not stock are the 1964 FI single point distributor and MSD ignition.
After breaking in I tried winding it up but it falls short of the 6200 rpm redline getting only to about 5600 or so.
Didn't seem like a big deal until I rode in a friends 61 2x4 Corvette with dual points.
It would easily wind up to 6200 redline.
I need the experts to chime in please.
Is it not possible for single points to rev that high?
I really don't want to go to the expense of changing to a dual point distributor just get the last bit of RPMs out of it.
Would replacing the points with a Pertronics module do the trick?
I would appreciate any suggestions.
Thx
#2
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C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
A single point distributor with the right set of points will easily rev well beyond 6200 RPM. The key thing is to get a set of points with a strong return spring. You don't need Pertronix.
Jim
Jim
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Delco 112P are the ones...stiff spring. The 106's are the standard duty. Ebay is your friend. This may not be your problem, but a good place to start. If running a uniset, change to a separate condenser...the unisets are problematic.
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cannonsid (01-23-2017)
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St. Jude Donor '12
OP, you don't state whether you changed points when you were doing all the update on your motor, but it reminded me of an incident back in the day, where I had put in a set of 106HP Delco points in my 396-375 hp car. When it hit 5800, it was like you turned the key off. I chased fuel filters, air filter, new valve springs, only to have a guy put the distributor on a Sun machine and bingo! point float at 5800. Course he thought that was plenty. Put a set of 106PS points in it and it would rev all day long to 6500. I think also back in the day we used to double spring em. Probably was hell on the distributor cam, but that was what we did.
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Shortly I will start a thread that will have an article about points attached that was published in the Corvette Restorer.
Duke
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OP, you don't state whether you changed points when you were doing all the update on your motor, but it reminded me of an incident back in the day, where I had put in a set of 106HP Delco points in my 396-375 hp car. When it hit 5800, it was like you turned the key off. I chased fuel filters, air filter, new valve springs, only to have a guy put the distributor on a Sun machine and bingo! point float at 5800. Course he thought that was plenty. Put a set of 106PS points in it and it would rev all day long to 6500. I think also back in the day we used to double spring em. Probably was hell on the distributor cam, but that was what we did.
The points were clean so I checked the gap and called it good.
I'll check the part number and see what is installed.
Maybe I have the wrong points.
I appreciate the suggestions
#12
Racer
Check your rotor. The ones currently available are 1/16" short for emissions purposes. Somebody makes one to the original specs. I have one in my '67 L79 and it'll go to 6000 no trouble at all. It'll run smoothly up until I loose my courage and shift.
#13
Racer
Check out the Corvette Adventure article in the newsletter after the Porsche stuff. My fuelie was doing the same thing on the Dyno until I switched points, condensor and plug wires.
http://www.ncrs-ok.org/uploads/Jan_2017_Sidepipe.pdf
Pat
http://www.ncrs-ok.org/uploads/Jan_2017_Sidepipe.pdf
Pat
#14
Team Owner
This may sound foolish but it actually happened to a forum member a few weeks back...make sure your gas pedal/accelerator linkage is adjusted properly for WOT operation...
#15
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Also verify that the centrifugal advance mechanism moves freely. It should be clean with NO GREASE... just wipe down the parts with WD-40, which will provide corrosion protection.
Verify that total WOT advance is in the range of 36-40 degrees at and above the point of maximum centrifugal, and that dwell does not vary more than two degrees at max revs.
Point bounce will usually cause the engine to misfire, not just flatten out, and there is a big drop off in dwell angle.
Duke
Verify that total WOT advance is in the range of 36-40 degrees at and above the point of maximum centrifugal, and that dwell does not vary more than two degrees at max revs.
Point bounce will usually cause the engine to misfire, not just flatten out, and there is a big drop off in dwell angle.
Duke
Last edited by SWCDuke; 01-24-2017 at 09:18 AM.
#16
Team Owner
I agree, not hearing point bounce and no valve float (Duntov setup); its fuel starvation, advance or linkage. Worth checking fuel pump pressure and volume too...takes 5-6 minutes...