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My brand new rear drum brakes (drums, liners, springs, cylinders, ...complete overhaul) make a 'tak tak tak' noise when braking at slower speed (my guess: at the rate of the spinning wheel). When putting them on the test rollers they perform fine and balanced left/right. Any idea?
First check that there isn't a pebble stuck in the tire tread. Next I would jack the rear up with parking brake off and front tires chocked and slowly spin each rear wheel by hand in neutral. Then if convinced it's the brakes pull a drum.
First check that there isn't a pebble stuck in the tire tread. Next I would jack the rear up with parking brake off and front tires chocked and slowly spin each rear wheel by hand in neutral. Then if convinced it's the brakes pull a drum.
it's only when braking, sounds kind of like something is pulling off and on the studs
it's only when braking, sounds kind of like something is pulling off and on the studs
Go through the self adjustment procedure and if no help pull the rear drums and let's have a look-see. I don't fool around with brakes. You need to figure it out.
Check for proper spring placement and leading/trailing shoe position and that the self adjuster torpedos are on the correct side. They are NOT interchangeable
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 02-19-2017 at 11:08 AM.
Does the orientation of the self adjusting spring (green spring above star adjuster) matter? See how in the pics you posted, the spring attaches from the rear of the shoe? So the hook potion of the spring comes from the back of the shoe.
I did my right rear drum last night and my self adjusting spring attaches on the front of the shoe. It shows this orientation in the shop manual too.
Does the orientation of the self adjusting spring (green spring above star adjuster) matter? See how in the pics you posted, the spring attaches from the rear of the shoe? So the hook potion of the spring comes from the back of the shoe.
I did my right rear drum last night and my self adjusting spring attaches on the front of the shoe. It shows this orientation in the shop manual too.
If you put it on wrong, the spring will bind on the adjuster wheel.
If you put it on wrong, the spring will bind on the adjuster wheel.
Yeah, that's why I was asking. In his pics above, the spring hook comes from the back of the shoe, but I have it hooking from the front. The shop manual shows it from the front (I think, pics aren't crystal clear) too. I'm just wondering if I have it backwards. My start adjuster seems to click fine when I turn it.
Okay. You're talking about which way the hook faces. I thought you meant the whole spring.
Here's another picture.
Nice pic! So in this pic, the hook on the short end of the spring (left side looking at the diagram) goes through the front of the shoe. So it looks like I have it correct.
Now his is coming from the back. Could that be an issue and causing his clicking sound?
Nice pic! So in this pic, the hook on the short end of the spring (left side looking at the diagram) goes through the front of the shoe. So it looks like I have it correct.
Now his is coming from the back. Could that be an issue and causing his clicking sound?
Here's another correct picture of 64 brakes Alexandervdr. Like bluestreak63 already mentioned, the only thing I can see installed incorrectly is the adjuster spring.
I don't think it matters which way the hook orients, the relevant point being the spring is not taking a bend and is well aligned with the star wheel cylinder (and it is).
The sound I am hearing is as if a shoe lifts from the top stud and then bounces back. The inside of the new drums is nicely and evenly worn in already, no signs of partial grip...
I would get the car up on jack stands in the rear, chock the front wheels....and parking brake off.
Remove the rear tires and spin the drums by hand while somebody applies the brakes....engine off. If that doesn't do it you can support the rear suspension so its not dangling fully extended (e.g. ratchet straps on the trailing arms and other techniques I've seen here). Have somebody start the car, put it in first, get it going a bit with some gas and apply the brakes. You should at least be able to determine which side is the issue.
well, it's both sides. I took the rear drums of (again...) and compared part to part with the old parts I took off. I noticed the spring holding the forward oriented shoe was way longer than the spring I had taken off, so increasing holding force against the dust shield. Although I would expect the problem to be too little rather than much pressure, I replaced the long springs with the shorter one. It took only a short drive to notice the problem was still there...I then went for a drive with a very experience car mechanic, who guessed (as I do) that it's the shoes sliding sideways and then springing back to the dust shield.
Very interesting observation: when braking in reverse it's very smooth and silent without any clunking noise. Does this ring a bell?
Last edited by alexandervdr; 02-27-2017 at 11:40 AM.
well, it's both sides. I took the rear drums of (again...) and compared part to part with the old parts I took off. I noticed the spring holding the forward oriented shoe was way longer than the spring I had taken off, so increasing holding force against the dust shield. Although I would expect the problem to be too little rather than much pressure, I replaced the long springs with the shorter one. It took only a short drive to notice the problem was still there...I then went for a drive with a very experience car mechanic, who guessed (as I do) that it's the shoes sliding sideways and then springing back to the dust shield.
Very interesting observation: when braking in reverse it's very smooth and silent without any clunking noise. Does this ring a bell?
The short shoe retainer spring is shorter to accommodate the flat self adjuster arm that operates the pawl The longer spring goes on the OTHER shoe. I'd compare things to a front assembly that does not make the noise. You've assembled something wrong or have a wrong part.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 02-27-2017 at 12:47 PM.
If I understand correctly there is the shorter STRAIGHT spring WITHOUT taper at one site that goes into a bottom cup that slots into the self adjusting arm.
The LONGER one has TAPER and goes to the other shoe. The TAPER is oriented against the shoe and holds with a washer against the shoe. Right?
pictures shows a new an an old spring,on car all springs are new
02-19-2017, 10:19 AM
rear drum brake noise 64 coupe
