2005 C6 oil pan/sump removal question
#1
2005 C6 oil pan/sump removal question
Looking for some advice please.
Is it possible to remove the oil pan/sump from the bottom of the car without removing the whole motor from the car?
I can see that the motor mounts are connected onto the cross member frame that would need to be removed in order to get the pan off.
Is there some way of supporting the motor and being able to drop the subframe to remove the pan?
Regards
Is it possible to remove the oil pan/sump from the bottom of the car without removing the whole motor from the car?
I can see that the motor mounts are connected onto the cross member frame that would need to be removed in order to get the pan off.
Is there some way of supporting the motor and being able to drop the subframe to remove the pan?
Regards
#2
Race Car Tech
It is possible to remove the oil pan without much problems. See this PDF, posted a few days ago in another similar thread. This is the instructions that include the 2005.
The following users liked this post:
mazzerman (02-22-2017)
#4
#5
Drifting
know of two ways to support the engine. One is to use a cherry picker lift and attach it to the engine using two bolts thru a chain into the holes in the front of the head and or alternator bracket.
The other way is to buy the jig or borrow it from your GM dealer that uses the chassis frame rails to hold it up. My dealer will loan me his if he isn't using it.
Unbolt the two engine mounts from under the cradle, then unbolt the 4 cradle bolts, and the upper a arm bolts. Using a floor jack under the cradle, lower it down. Keep an eye on the steering lines, ABS lines and wires and flexible brake lines out to the calipers. You may have to take the bolts out of the ABS bracket so you can get maximum lowering. Sounds like a lot of bolts but its easy to do. Sway bar may need to be taken loose too. It all depends on how far you have to lower the cradle to get the pan off. I assume not too low. If so, about half of what I mentioned wont have to be done.
Second way is to
The other way is to buy the jig or borrow it from your GM dealer that uses the chassis frame rails to hold it up. My dealer will loan me his if he isn't using it.
Unbolt the two engine mounts from under the cradle, then unbolt the 4 cradle bolts, and the upper a arm bolts. Using a floor jack under the cradle, lower it down. Keep an eye on the steering lines, ABS lines and wires and flexible brake lines out to the calipers. You may have to take the bolts out of the ABS bracket so you can get maximum lowering. Sounds like a lot of bolts but its easy to do. Sway bar may need to be taken loose too. It all depends on how far you have to lower the cradle to get the pan off. I assume not too low. If so, about half of what I mentioned wont have to be done.
Second way is to
Last edited by rabrooks; 02-23-2017 at 12:33 PM.
The following users liked this post:
mazzerman (02-23-2017)
#6
Thanks for the advice, that seems a good option but iv decided to put a new clutch in as well so gonna lift the motor out of the car and can change clutch, pilot bearing and release bearing and have access to the sump while on the engine stand.
Just gotta find out about the torque tube business as i thought i read somewhere that its balanced and you have to put 2 bolts in somewhere and support the tube while its disconnected but i cant find any info or how to's on it as yet.
Just gotta find out about the torque tube business as i thought i read somewhere that its balanced and you have to put 2 bolts in somewhere and support the tube while its disconnected but i cant find any info or how to's on it as yet.
know of two ways to support the engine. One is to use a cherry picker lift and attach it to the engine using two bolts thru a chain into the holes in the front of the head and or alternator bracket.
The other way is to buy the jig or borrow it from your GM dealer that uses the chassis frame rails to hold it up. My dealer will loan me his if he isn't using it.
Unbolt the two engine mounts from under the cradle, then unbolt the 4 cradle bolts, and the upper a arm bolts. Using a floor jack under the cradle, lower it down. Keep an eye on the steering lines, ABS lines and wires and flexible brake lines out to the calipers. You may have to take the bolts out of the ABS bracket so you can get maximum lowering. Sounds like a lot of bolts but its easy to do. Sway bar may need to be taken loose too. It all depends on how far you have to lower the cradle to get the pan off. I assume not too low. If so, about half of what I mentioned wont have to be done.
Second way is to
The other way is to buy the jig or borrow it from your GM dealer that uses the chassis frame rails to hold it up. My dealer will loan me his if he isn't using it.
Unbolt the two engine mounts from under the cradle, then unbolt the 4 cradle bolts, and the upper a arm bolts. Using a floor jack under the cradle, lower it down. Keep an eye on the steering lines, ABS lines and wires and flexible brake lines out to the calipers. You may have to take the bolts out of the ABS bracket so you can get maximum lowering. Sounds like a lot of bolts but its easy to do. Sway bar may need to be taken loose too. It all depends on how far you have to lower the cradle to get the pan off. I assume not too low. If so, about half of what I mentioned wont have to be done.
Second way is to
#7
Melting Slicks
You can't "lift" the engine out, it comes out the bottom still mounted to the front cradle. Replace the slave at the same time as the clutch and don't forget to refill the trans if your car has a trans cooler.
#8
Why cant it be taken out the top, if it released from the cradle and moved forward to clear the torque tube splines? (rad will be removed 1st and possibly ABS unit)
#10
Drifting
The reason for dropping the cradle is so the steering rack is low enough to allow the engine and balancer to clear it as its slid forward to release from the spline and drive shaft
Last edited by rabrooks; 02-23-2017 at 01:26 PM.
The following users liked this post:
mazzerman (02-23-2017)
#12
Drifting
Plus he may be like me. He may not have a lift. If no lift, it aint coming out the bottom
Last edited by rabrooks; 02-23-2017 at 01:30 PM.
#14
originally i was going to just get oil pan off and clutch later, but makes more sense to do all at the same time with engine out.
Heads are already off and overhauled, so only block etc to lift.
So is there enough room to move forward with radiator in place? it doesnt seem to be enough room to me.
Also the ABS block on front left looks like it should be removed as well, is that the case?
Heads are already off and overhauled, so only block etc to lift.
So is there enough room to move forward with radiator in place? it doesnt seem to be enough room to me.
Also the ABS block on front left looks like it should be removed as well, is that the case?
#15
Drifting
originally i was going to just get oil pan off and clutch later, but makes more sense to do all at the same time with engine out.
Heads are already off and overhauled, so only block etc to lift.
So is there enough room to move forward with radiator in place? it doesnt seem to be enough room to me.
Also the ABS block on front left looks like it should be removed as well, is that the case?
Heads are already off and overhauled, so only block etc to lift.
So is there enough room to move forward with radiator in place? it doesnt seem to be enough room to me.
Also the ABS block on front left looks like it should be removed as well, is that the case?
#16
Drifting
should have mentioned, if you need more room (although you shouldn't) pull the power steering reservoir from its bracket, remove that bracket. I support the bell housing with a jack so I can wiggle the engine forward then up.
If you wan to leave the ac system in tack so you don't have to recharge, drop the engine with the cradle to gain access to the ac compressor bolts and studs. The engine has to be dropped enough to allow the top compressor bolts to come out through the fender well. Pull the stud and the bolts out. Now you can raise the engine back up. Lift the compressor off the engine and tie it to the inside of the engine bay.
If you wan to leave the ac system in tack so you don't have to recharge, drop the engine with the cradle to gain access to the ac compressor bolts and studs. The engine has to be dropped enough to allow the top compressor bolts to come out through the fender well. Pull the stud and the bolts out. Now you can raise the engine back up. Lift the compressor off the engine and tie it to the inside of the engine bay.
#17
should have mentioned, if you need more room (although you shouldn't) pull the power steering reservoir from its bracket, remove that bracket. I support the bell housing with a jack so I can wiggle the engine forward then up.
If you wan to leave the ac system in tack so you don't have to recharge, drop the engine with the cradle to gain access to the ac compressor bolts and studs. The engine has to be dropped enough to allow the top compressor bolts to come out through the fender well. Pull the stud and the bolts out. Now you can raise the engine back up. Lift the compressor off the engine and tie it to the inside of the engine bay.
If you wan to leave the ac system in tack so you don't have to recharge, drop the engine with the cradle to gain access to the ac compressor bolts and studs. The engine has to be dropped enough to allow the top compressor bolts to come out through the fender well. Pull the stud and the bolts out. Now you can raise the engine back up. Lift the compressor off the engine and tie it to the inside of the engine bay.
I will give it a shot
#18
Drifting
Couple more thoughts. Lower the engine and cradle to get the ac fasteners off before you loosen the bell housing. That way the bell housing is keeping everything in shape so you don't bend anything. The engine will only droop so far because the torque tube will rest on the tunnel plate. But it will be far enough to get the fasteners from the ac comp.
The following users liked this post:
mazzerman (02-24-2017)