raymondtormey

Good morning,
I am a novice mechanic at best, so I hope this question isn't too dumb.
I've got a 1969 Small Block Stingray that I'm trying to get it started after sitting for 3 months. The engine was turning, but nothing was catching, after a few tries I let it sit, tried again and in mid crank it just stopped. Now I get nothing when I turn the key, no click. I checked the battery and it's fine, so I assume it's the starter, is there any way to check the starter without removing it from the car?
For some reason, I feel like it might be something electrical.
I also have the center gauge cluster dismantled because I am working on replacing some of the gauges, most the wires are disconnected, would this have something to do with it?
Just looking for some direction.

Thanks

MelWff

how did you test the battery, what voltage reading did you get?
you can try jumping the solenoid from the main battery connection to the terminal with the purple wire.

raymondtormey

I just used a Volt Meter to test it, and it still had good voltage. I'm going to get it tested at a parts store this afternoon. When I had the volt meter on the battery and turned on the lights, the voltage dropped, but when I turned the key to start it, it didn't drop at all. That's why I am wondering if it's something electrical that I screwed up. Even with a bad starter, I would think that it would still draw some current... but I don't really know.

MelWff

what voltage reading did the battery show with the lights on?

raymondtormey

Nothing on = 12.55 Volts
Lights on = 12.24 Volts
Turning key = 12.55 Volts

Mr D.

I doubt you have a battery problem, sounds like wiring. As Mel pointed out jump the starter solenoid to see if it turns over.

Best to buy a remote starter switch at your local FLAPS to troubleshoot. Once we know the battery and starter are not the issue we can move on to wiring.

Billem

It's possible a fuseable link has blown. There are a couple that I know about and very well may be others. One is on the left inner fender. Just aft of the alternator. The other is near the right rear of the engine, amongst the wiring going to the starter. I can't help much with the "no start" problem, but just remember that a carb engine starts a whole lot different than a fuel injected one (i.e. don't be afraid to pump the carb full of gas - altho if you smell gas, you've probably pumped too much). BTW, if you are going to "jump" the starter and you have a manual transmission, please be sure it's in neutral. I've never tried it in gear but it seems to me that something bad might happen. Have a great weekend, Bill

TimAT

Easy to check the fuse links- use your voltmeter- ground the black lead and touch the red to the alternator output stud, and the BAT terminal on the horn relay. OR just pull the headlight switch. Lights on, fuse links are OK.

Rescue Rogers

You can take a small hammer and tap the starter solenoid a few times and try the key again. They stick when thay start to fail. GM problem across the board. Once it starts to crank again, you can do 2 things, spray starter fluid in the carb then crank it again or the more dangerous thing would be a tiny squirt of gasoline, then crank. Some carbs will drain and you wont have any gas until the mech pump pulls gas then pressurizes your system. Happened all the time in my 68 gto when I got back from long deployments.

If you go the gas route, use only a small amount of fuel and put the air cleaner on before starting in case of back fire. Do this at your own risk. Starter fluid is safer, same procedure

raymondtormey

Okay, after some family issues, I am back at it.
I have tested the Fuse Link, and they seem fine. I purchased a remote starter and jumped the solenoid and the engine turned great.
This last time I turned the key, the lights and gauges woke up, but nothing from the starter. I just did it again, and got nothing from the lights and gauges. I am thinking that there is an issue with the ignition switch. Any other ideas, or am I going down the correct path?

Rescue Rogers

sounds lilke your onto something, maybe you should unplug it and clean the contacts and try again. Look at willcox site to see if he has any testing protocols. Good chance you are correct that it is bad.

Bikespace

With the remote starter, and the ignition key in the "ON" position, can you crank enough to get fuel into the carb and actually start and run the car?

If so, your ignition switch may be the culprit. See if you can chase down where the break is. In addition to a standard multi-meter, I have a needle-sharp voltage tester. Connect the lead to a good ground, and poke the needle into the insulation to the wire. If you have 12V, a light lights up. I used it to track down the Bubba in my engine compartment, and discovered that my engine bay light worked just fine with a new bulb.