TJefferson2020

Two questions:

1. Is the linkage supposed to be loose?

2. When I fire it up, it blows the 10amp inline fuse - thoughts?

I've adjusted the bucket stops so they are close. One bucket seeks to have come up normally and the other looks like it didn't move. Blows the fuse each time.

I'm thinking it is getting hung up or hitting the stops and keeps going until it blows the fuse. Is that possible? That the motor over draws power when at the stops or when jammed (buckets move easily by hand)

Frankie the Fink

The linkage should not be loose -- you have something boogered up..
You should remove the motors from the buckets and confirm the buckets move freely on their own and hit the Y-stops correctly. The buckets should flip up or down with a flick of two fingers...

TJefferson2020

Hmmm. wtf. I didn't touch the linkages. I checked the instructions and it says nothing about tightening them.

I had the motors in and out today and the buckets turn freely. I think I'll remove them again tomorrow and let them cycle unattached to the buckets to confirm thier operation.

My theory now is that somebody didn't torque the linkage properly and it is causing my buckets to jam. The dang thing goes so fast I can't see what is happening.

Frankie the Fink

i guess I misunderstood what linkage you were reffering to.

TJefferson2020

The linkage is where the support rod meets the motor mount. It's a bolt with spacers and washers and is a pivot point. I'll get some pics or video of it tomorrow. It does see, loosey goosey in terms of the buckets moving side to side.

I really was excited to install this kit. So far it's been a PITA to install. But part of it my custom wiring. Although, that shouldn't be a problem. Wiring is bullet proof. Amd I know it like the back of my hand.

I need to find a good place to tap power. I have a wire with a spade that I shove into the fuse box. I picked a fuse that was 10 amps. Still blows.

Frankie the Fink

Unless they've changed the instructions, I believe they state to power the system off the headlight bucket circuit breaker at the top of the driver's side kick panel. That circuit breaker is 30 amps IIRC. You will blow that 10 amp glass fuse all day long.

Your custom wiring may require installing a high amperage protection device in the main power lead

TJefferson2020

Ok. I thought that was a bit odd. That's why it is blowing the fuse. Perhaps I can just use a higher rated fuse?

I was hoping to call them but keep foregetting during the day.

Why would one need an additional fuse if it is hooked up to a circuit breaker to begin with?

Frankie the Fink

I'm not near my documents or my car. If the 10 amp fuse that is blowing is in the main power lead from the conversion harness as part of their design that is your limiting factor... If your headlight buckets move up and down smoothly without the motors connected they are not the problem. That leaves three things...

1) A bad DS motor
2) Bad wiring
3) A defect in the electronic "brain"

I would get 5 extra fuses, if the buckets themselves check out, then:

1) cycle the headlight system WITH BOTH headlight motor connectors disconnected, if that works the wiring might be fine and you have motor problems. So then,
2) cycle the headlight system WITH ONE headlight motor connected, if that works, that motor is probably good, so then,
3) cycle the headlight system with JUST THE OTHER headlight motor connected, if that works the motor is probably good...

If all that works then you need to call Detroit Speed.
As you have strange wiring issues, the "brain" is faulty, or, with both motors connected the system overloads.....though individual motors may work.

TJefferson2020

Thank you!

Wiring is solid and run for 11 years without a problem. It's a Painless Wiring system. So nothing funky there. It uses modern GM color scheme and fuse box.

With regard to item 1 - when you say "cycle the system with motors disconnected" you mean work the switch and basically nothing should happen (I.e., no motor actuation (obviously) and no fuse blowing.

Super appreciated. I've read a lot about this system and very few people seem to have issues. I guess I'm lucky that way.

I'll check this later today (have a killer case of flu). I suspect that the loose linkage is causing the buckets to bind from the torque of the motors. However, my understanding is that when the motors sense physical resistance the brain shuts them off - so that should not cause a blown fuse.

100% suspect the 10 amp fuse connected to 30 amp circuit is a design flaw that could be the entire issue or there are two issues (binding plus design flaw).

I'll update this thread with my findings.

Frankie the Fink

Yes on number 1) there should be next to no current draw with both motors out of the circuit - a fuse blowing in this test means your wiring is shorted somehow...

HOWEVER, I don't know how smart the "brain" is; if it detects there is not enough "load" for both motors running it might shut down of its own accord and do nothing. So, if your "one motor at a time" test doesn't operate a motor separately don't be surprised... Still shouldn't blow a fuse though.

A forum member, 1COOLC2, invented the system and sold it to DS. The earliest versions had clutches in the motors so that if something would bind they were more forgiving; the later versions will move without current applied but its not clutches - I wouldn't do it unless its an emergency. The "brain" may have some overcurrent protection but it's no substitute for a fuse... I suspect the current-sensing in the "brain" is to provide the stopping point in the motors for full up and full down positions and not much more...

I don't know of any of the motor portion that should have anything loose; it all mounts snugly on rubber bushings....

I don't think the 10 amps is a design flaw...the 30 amp factory circuit breaker is just a convenient underdash spot to pick up a high current power source...consider it just extra protection.

I've put three of the systems in others' cars and had my own in and out for judging (original motors were required) and then back in with no issues..

TJefferson2020

OK, I think one side worked right and the other side busted my Y stop.



Tested with motors unplugged - no problem
Tested each motor independent of bucket - one kept spinning, the other just turned one cycle (?)
Buckets move smoothly
Tightened linkages so they are firm

Now the motor that spun won't line up with the shaft. I'll have to re-index with new parts and start over.

Sigh. I suppose I can install rear fenders, cluster and column....

Not sure my new LED taillights are working either. Good thing I bought a new multimeter.

Ordering new Y stops.

Frankie the Fink

Never heard of that before. Strange.

TJefferson2020

Part of me wants to swap it out for a new set to start over. They were clearly not assembled correctly. On one side the linkage nylon nut was engaged about one turn. Very loose.

But I'm going to replace the stops and try one more time. Stops are original - could be simple metal fatigue.

Why can't anything be easy?

Frankie the Fink

I'd be on the horn with Detroit Speed tomorrow morning and get their take on it....without eyeballing the setup in person it'd be hard to diagnosis something that could do that. A runaway motor, faulty linkage, the electronic brain became sentient (like SkyNet) and took revenge on a human.

Can't say..