Looking For My C6
02-26-2017, 12:41 PM
#1
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Location: Lake City Minnesota
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Looking For My C6
Hello all. This is my first time posting on here, but I have been combing this forum for months. After much persuasive effort, I have finally convinced my wife to let me buy a C6! I will be selling my '12 WRX and buying a low mileage impala for a daily driver. I am also simultaneously searching for that perfect C6
I am the type of guy who likes bone stock garage queens. I don't like any sign of modification. I'm my mind modification most likely means someone like me owned it, which means it has probably been driven hard.
I have found an interesting C6 about 2 hours from me. Here is the link:
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/ctd/6005975032.html
My questions for the experts:
1. Does anything look out of the ordinary? Were Brembo's stock with the Z51 package?
2. How does the price look in relation to the mileage? 50k is higher than I would like.
3. Is it worth looking for an LS3 '08+ ? Is it a noticeable performance increase? And yes I know I should go drive one to know for sure.
4. What should I look for, request, etc. When I go look at it?
Thanks everyone!
I am the type of guy who likes bone stock garage queens. I don't like any sign of modification. I'm my mind modification most likely means someone like me owned it, which means it has probably been driven hard.
I have found an interesting C6 about 2 hours from me. Here is the link:
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/ctd/6005975032.html
My questions for the experts:
1. Does anything look out of the ordinary? Were Brembo's stock with the Z51 package?
2. How does the price look in relation to the mileage? 50k is higher than I would like.
3. Is it worth looking for an LS3 '08+ ? Is it a noticeable performance increase? And yes I know I should go drive one to know for sure.
4. What should I look for, request, etc. When I go look at it?
Thanks everyone!
Last edited by NathanM; 02-26-2017 at 12:56 PM.
02-26-2017, 12:58 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
I do not believe it has the F55 magnetic Ride control mentioned in the ad...no controller on the center console.
The only thing I can see so far is the Radio "Pioneer" is not stock. The only possible problem with that is if they did not use the special harness required to retain the beeps and sounds and some On-star capability. I was unaware of that until I bought mine recently and it has a Kenwood unit which is awesome but none of the bells and dings normally associated with certain notifications, etc...
The only thing I can see so far is the Radio "Pioneer" is not stock. The only possible problem with that is if they did not use the special harness required to retain the beeps and sounds and some On-star capability. I was unaware of that until I bought mine recently and it has a Kenwood unit which is awesome but none of the bells and dings normally associated with certain notifications, etc...
Last edited by jdvann; 02-26-2017 at 01:01 PM.
02-26-2017, 01:03 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
In further view the add doesn't match the car...
It mentions Magnetic Ride and HUD...I don't see either one.
Or heated seats...no buttons visible for that.
It mentions Magnetic Ride and HUD...I don't see either one.
Or heated seats...no buttons visible for that.
Last edited by jdvann; 02-26-2017 at 01:05 PM.
02-26-2017, 01:15 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
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I think it's a little overpriced for a 2007 and also for the mileage. I also didn't see the switch for magnetic ride. If I were you and if I wanted a true "garage queen", I would look to buy a car from a private seller. It will cost you a few thousand less to purchase from a private seller and it could be a true garage queen, sitting in someone's garage until the day you take it home. You should be able to get a low mileage 2008 for $25k.
02-26-2017, 01:31 PM
#5
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Thanks everyone. It's tough when most vetts are a minimum 150 miles away. It's always a gamble what I should and shouldn't go look at. From what I am seeing, low mileage (under 10,000), minimally equipped vetts are listed between 29 and 33k. These are all dealers though. Some are these are certified which is nice. I want to spend about 27k OTD.
02-26-2017, 01:45 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
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Thanks everyone. It's tough when most vetts are a minimum 150 miles away. It's always a gamble what I should and shouldn't go look at. From what I am seeing, low mileage (under 10,000), minimally equipped vetts are listed between 29 and 33k. These are all dealers though. Some are these are certified which is nice. I want to spend about 27k OTD.
Between $29k and $33k you should be in 2010 Grand Sport or 2012 base model territory. Some dealerships put some crazy prices on their cars and they just sit on the lot waiting on the right victim. I purchased my car in October 2016, and some of the cars I saw on the market then are still on the market today. I ended up buying my car from someone on Craigslist in the next state over and couldn't be happier. And what is low mileage is different for everyone, I should of clarified that when I said low mileage I was thinking 20K or less. After 30k miles I feel like prices start to drop off quite a bit, so I would try at worst case to stay under that. The for sale section on this forum also has some nice gems from time to time.
Last edited by TorchRedFred; 02-26-2017 at 01:49 PM.
02-26-2017, 02:09 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
Wheels are aftermarket, those are Z06 wheels, not for base car. I don't see steering wheels controls for radio. No heated seat controls. No magnetic ride control. Stereo is not stock. Cant tell about Z51, cant see rotors. I think based on that, I would pass. I think thats called deceptive advertising.
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ArmchairArchitect (02-27-2017)
02-26-2017, 02:26 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
I would pass on that car, it doesn't have the HUD, Mag ride buttons, or audio controls on the steering wheel, aftermarket radio. The car ad doesn't match the description at all. Even the tires seem ( to me ) to be the wrong size, they look stretched and small to fit the Z06 wheels. It looks like a 1LT option car.
02-26-2017, 02:58 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
Besides the afore mentioned missing equipment as outlined in the ad, the car is over priced. My '09 bone stock A6 base car with 26K miles cost me $28,500 two years ago and that was from a Chevy dealer.
02-26-2017, 03:13 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
Here's my standard check list of would be/could be issues for the C6 and shopping advice.
Check Harmonic crankshaft balancer for out of roundness and belt chirping noise.
Check for oil pan seeping issues, some seep but never leave a mark on the ground.
Pull the dip stick and note the color of the oil, as it should be light brown to a darker brown, but not gray, this could indicate metallic particles in the oil.
Check the radiator lower supports in the front as they can get damaged from close encounters with a curb and can break the welds loose.
Check for strong fuel odors around the left rear tire, as some have developed a fuel leaks at the left side fuel tank and/or the fuel pump assembly.
While idling the car, there should not be unusual rattling noises coming from underneath the car, as torque tube bearings and couplers can be bad with higher mileage cars.
While driving and releasing the clutch, be sure that transition is smooth with no chattering.
Stock clutches can last over a 100k miles, provided the operators have not abused it up until then.
Car should road test without squeaks and rattles, as I find mine as very quiet, only issue is the that targa tops can creak and is usually a easy fix.
Also the end links have been known to clunk over bumps, but another easy fix
Rear diff have been know to make chattering noises when turning sharply, but usually a gear oil change with the correct oil can solve this issue.
Axle nuts sometimes will become loose and can create creaking noises in the rear end, another easy fix.
Make sure that the ac and heat work and come out the correct vent when going through the operations of the controls. The bellows in the dash can go bad, and this is a rough job to do and expensive if done at the dealership.
Obviously the trans should shift smoothly, but while cold, they can be notchy but should shift better within 10 to 15 miles or so. Check the operation in going into reverse, as there is a synchronize that have given issues recently reported.
Auto trans have a issue with breaking shift cable parts at times.
The first year 2005's do have a weaker rear end diff, and was updated with the next year models.
If you don't plan to mod the car, this is not really a issue though.
Good Luck in your quest.
__________________
Check Harmonic crankshaft balancer for out of roundness and belt chirping noise.
Check for oil pan seeping issues, some seep but never leave a mark on the ground.
Pull the dip stick and note the color of the oil, as it should be light brown to a darker brown, but not gray, this could indicate metallic particles in the oil.
Check the radiator lower supports in the front as they can get damaged from close encounters with a curb and can break the welds loose.
Check for strong fuel odors around the left rear tire, as some have developed a fuel leaks at the left side fuel tank and/or the fuel pump assembly.
While idling the car, there should not be unusual rattling noises coming from underneath the car, as torque tube bearings and couplers can be bad with higher mileage cars.
While driving and releasing the clutch, be sure that transition is smooth with no chattering.
Stock clutches can last over a 100k miles, provided the operators have not abused it up until then.
Car should road test without squeaks and rattles, as I find mine as very quiet, only issue is the that targa tops can creak and is usually a easy fix.
Also the end links have been known to clunk over bumps, but another easy fix
Rear diff have been know to make chattering noises when turning sharply, but usually a gear oil change with the correct oil can solve this issue.
Axle nuts sometimes will become loose and can create creaking noises in the rear end, another easy fix.
Make sure that the ac and heat work and come out the correct vent when going through the operations of the controls. The bellows in the dash can go bad, and this is a rough job to do and expensive if done at the dealership.
Obviously the trans should shift smoothly, but while cold, they can be notchy but should shift better within 10 to 15 miles or so. Check the operation in going into reverse, as there is a synchronize that have given issues recently reported.
Auto trans have a issue with breaking shift cable parts at times.
The first year 2005's do have a weaker rear end diff, and was updated with the next year models.
If you don't plan to mod the car, this is not really a issue though.
Good Luck in your quest.
__________________
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ArmchairArchitect (02-27-2017)
02-26-2017, 04:23 PM
#13
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Location: Lake City Minnesota
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Here's my standard check list of would be/could be issues for the C6 and shopping advice.
Check Harmonic crankshaft balancer for out of roundness and belt chirping noise.
Check for oil pan seeping issues, some seep but never leave a mark on the ground.
Pull the dip stick and note the color of the oil, as it should be light brown to a darker brown, but not gray, this could indicate metallic particles in the oil.
Check the radiator lower supports in the front as they can get damaged from close encounters with a curb and can break the welds loose.
Check for strong fuel odors around the left rear tire, as some have developed a fuel leaks at the left side fuel tank and/or the fuel pump assembly.
While idling the car, there should not be unusual rattling noises coming from underneath the car, as torque tube bearings and couplers can be bad with higher mileage cars.
While driving and releasing the clutch, be sure that transition is smooth with no chattering.
Stock clutches can last over a 100k miles, provided the operators have not abused it up until then.
Car should road test without squeaks and rattles, as I find mine as very quiet, only issue is the that targa tops can creak and is usually a easy fix.
Also the end links have been known to clunk over bumps, but another easy fix
Rear diff have been know to make chattering noises when turning sharply, but usually a gear oil change with the correct oil can solve this issue.
Axle nuts sometimes will become loose and can create creaking noises in the rear end, another easy fix.
Make sure that the ac and heat work and come out the correct vent when going through the operations of the controls. The bellows in the dash can go bad, and this is a rough job to do and expensive if done at the dealership.
Obviously the trans should shift smoothly, but while cold, they can be notchy but should shift better within 10 to 15 miles or so. Check the operation in going into reverse, as there is a synchronize that have given issues recently reported.
Auto trans have a issue with breaking shift cable parts at times.
The first year 2005's do have a weaker rear end diff, and was updated with the next year models.
If you don't plan to mod the car, this is not really a issue though.
Good Luck in your quest.
__________________
Check Harmonic crankshaft balancer for out of roundness and belt chirping noise.
Check for oil pan seeping issues, some seep but never leave a mark on the ground.
Pull the dip stick and note the color of the oil, as it should be light brown to a darker brown, but not gray, this could indicate metallic particles in the oil.
Check the radiator lower supports in the front as they can get damaged from close encounters with a curb and can break the welds loose.
Check for strong fuel odors around the left rear tire, as some have developed a fuel leaks at the left side fuel tank and/or the fuel pump assembly.
While idling the car, there should not be unusual rattling noises coming from underneath the car, as torque tube bearings and couplers can be bad with higher mileage cars.
While driving and releasing the clutch, be sure that transition is smooth with no chattering.
Stock clutches can last over a 100k miles, provided the operators have not abused it up until then.
Car should road test without squeaks and rattles, as I find mine as very quiet, only issue is the that targa tops can creak and is usually a easy fix.
Also the end links have been known to clunk over bumps, but another easy fix
Rear diff have been know to make chattering noises when turning sharply, but usually a gear oil change with the correct oil can solve this issue.
Axle nuts sometimes will become loose and can create creaking noises in the rear end, another easy fix.
Make sure that the ac and heat work and come out the correct vent when going through the operations of the controls. The bellows in the dash can go bad, and this is a rough job to do and expensive if done at the dealership.
Obviously the trans should shift smoothly, but while cold, they can be notchy but should shift better within 10 to 15 miles or so. Check the operation in going into reverse, as there is a synchronize that have given issues recently reported.
Auto trans have a issue with breaking shift cable parts at times.
The first year 2005's do have a weaker rear end diff, and was updated with the next year models.
If you don't plan to mod the car, this is not really a issue though.
Good Luck in your quest.
__________________
02-26-2017, 07:51 PM
#15
Safety Car
Hello all. This is my first time posting on here, but I have been combing this forum for months. After much persuasive effort, I have finally convinced my wife to let me buy a C6! I will be selling my '12 WRX and buying a low mileage impala for a daily driver. I am also simultaneously searching for that perfect C6
I am the type of guy who likes bone stock garage queens. I don't like any sign of modification. I'm my mind modification most likely means someone like me owned it, which means it has probably been driven hard.
I have found an interesting C6 about 2 hours from me. Here is the link:
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/ctd/6005975032.html
My questions for the experts:
1. Does anything look out of the ordinary? Were Brembo's stock with the Z51 package?
2. How does the price look in relation to the mileage? 50k is higher than I would like.
3. Is it worth looking for an LS3 '08+ ? Is it a noticeable performance increase? And yes I know I should go drive one to know for sure.
4. What should I look for, request, etc. When I go look at it?
Thanks everyone!
I am the type of guy who likes bone stock garage queens. I don't like any sign of modification. I'm my mind modification most likely means someone like me owned it, which means it has probably been driven hard.
I have found an interesting C6 about 2 hours from me. Here is the link:
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/ctd/6005975032.html
My questions for the experts:
1. Does anything look out of the ordinary? Were Brembo's stock with the Z51 package?
2. How does the price look in relation to the mileage? 50k is higher than I would like.
3. Is it worth looking for an LS3 '08+ ? Is it a noticeable performance increase? And yes I know I should go drive one to know for sure.
4. What should I look for, request, etc. When I go look at it?
Thanks everyone!
02-26-2017, 08:42 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
That is a 1LT car, no options at all you can tell by no buttons on the left of the steering wheel. No HUD etc.
It has a Z06 Spoiler, Z06 rims in base sizes, and a new headunit aftermarket. The drivers seat is in horrible shape.
That is a 21-22k car to me MAX.
It has a Z06 Spoiler, Z06 rims in base sizes, and a new headunit aftermarket. The drivers seat is in horrible shape.
That is a 21-22k car to me MAX.
02-26-2017, 09:34 PM
#18
Pro
This is not a bad car but. I think you'll find it's about 3000.00 too much according to Kelly Blue Book. Don't let anyone base their prices on the NADA book - very unrealistically high. Also, you can set up free accounts on cargurus, autotrader and cars.com and enter the car, price range, and distance you need and they will email or text you every time a car comes for sale. I would try to hold out for an 08 or newer, but if you find a great deal on an 05-07 go for it. Best regards
02-26-2017, 09:40 PM
#19
Race Director
02-26-2017, 10:12 PM
#20
Intermediate
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Thanks everyone! I'm going to steer clear of this one! I will definetly update this thread when I find my c6...and possibly will post again with my next prospect.