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Hi bd,
I'd have no problem buying a nice 68.
I WOULD however want to make sure it had the vast majority of parts and configurations that MAKE IT A 68…. still in place.
One of my favorite cars is a 68.
Regards,
Alan
Having just sold my 68 and still have my 70 they are both a little hard to find good original parts although there wasn't anything I couldn't find .Yes some 68 parts are a little more spendy but 68s seem to bring more money
Wes
Having just sold my 68 and still have my 70 they are both a little hard to find good original parts although there wasn't anything I couldn't find .Yes some 68 parts are a little more spendy but 68s seem to bring more money
Wes
Really appreciate all the feedback. One more question on the 68, mileage and small detail. Car I am looking at has over 100K miles but had a rebuild a few years ago. Also, the previous owner put the stingray logo over the finds, which are not correct for the 68. Any thoughts?
Really appreciate all the feedback. One more question on the 68, mileage and small detail. Car I am looking at has over 100K miles but had a rebuild a few years ago. Also, the previous owner put the stingray logo over the finds, which are not correct for the 68. Any thoughts?
I own a 68 and i would NEVER put the Stingray emblem on a 68...Thats one of the things that make the 68 so unique.
Really appreciate all the feedback. One more question on the 68, mileage and small detail. Car I am looking at has over 100K miles but had a rebuild a few years ago. Also, the previous owner put the stingray logo over the finds, which are not correct for the 68. Any thoughts?
I'd be much more concerned with the car's condition than the stated miles. Lot's of sellers advertise low original miles and lots of them lie.
If the car is in good condition and you don't plan on painting it then I'd consider the cost of correcting the emblem issue in any offer.
Make sure you have the car thoroughly inspected, especially for rust issues, before making any deal.
I have a 68 BB that I frame off restored, I have to say its one of my favorite years. I really like
the no stingray badge and the backup lights in the valance, and no clutch safety switch,
among others things
Unless you know Corvettes well, or more importantly, know 68's well, have someone familiar with Corvettes inspect it for you.
As has been stated, 68's have a lot of one year only parts, and many of them can easily be replaced with parts from other years. Often the differences are subtle, and not easy to catch, if you don't know what to look for.
Miles on a car, don't mean much anymore. What has been rebuilt, restored and replaced is what counts. You say it had a "rebuild a few years ago", but not what was rebuilt. Was it the suspension, engine, trans, rear and trailing arms, or was it just the brakes? These are the things to find out and consider before buying the car.
I'm not a purist, in the strictest sense. I like modified cars, but I also like correct stock original cars, and when it comes to stock cars, I prefer them to be completely stock. So to me, the Stingray emblems would be an issue. Unless the car is due for a repaint, to remove them, fill the mounting holes, and repaint the nose, could become expensive, and may create issues with matching the existing paint.
The "issues" are pretty much a thing of the past. However, there are a lot of one year only parts on 68 Corvettes. Expensive one year only parts.
Some people complained about a few issues when the 68's were new because of the major body changes but they were the same frame and running gears so no more issues than later C3's just mainly small body issues that have been worked out on all of those cars over the years by future owners. But as mentioned many one year only parts so they can be more expensive. In my opinion the 68's are a great corvette . I always like the first and last of a style like the chrome bumper cars 68 and 72.
I have been looking for a 69-72 and came across a 68. The car looks great, but curious as to peoples' view on buying a 68 given the issues.
You do realize that those "issues" were almost 50 years ago, don't you? Do you think they remained all of those years?
This is why you need to actually go out and see cars, be around cars, and ask about cars (like you are doing now) rather than simply read some review.
The other big question is, what are your intentions for the car? Showing, judging, restoration, hot rodding, resto mod, cruise nights, racing, what? All of those have an impact as to what is a good car and what isn't.
The '68 had a 7 inch wide rim with narrow F70-15 bias ply tires. They will scare you on any kind of twisty road if you push it. It is amazing what difference there is with an 8 inch rim and wider tires.
If it is all there, and you have to replace nothing, then it isn't any different than any other year. If you have to replace a lot of parts that are worn out or missing, then you can have issues either in finding the correct parts or in price if you are staying with original type parts. If you are hot rodding, then the restoration type part isn't a necessity and many one-year-only parts are not an issue.
Originally Posted by jv04
The "issues" are pretty much a thing of the past. However, there are a lot of one year only parts on 68 Corvettes. Expensive one year only parts.
You do realize that those "issues" were almost 50 years ago, don't you? Do you think they remained all of those years?
This is why you need to actually go out and see cars, be around cars, and ask about cars (like you are doing now) rather than simply read some review.
The other big question is, what are your intentions for the car? Showing, judging, restoration, hot rodding, resto mod, cruise nights, racing, what? All of those have an impact as to what is a good car and what isn't.
The '68 had a 7 inch wide rim with narrow F70-15 bias ply tires. They will scare you on any kind of twisty road if you push it. It is amazing what difference there is with an 8 inch rim and wider tires.
If it is all there, and you have to replace nothing, then it isn't any different than any other year. If you have to replace a lot of parts that are worn out or missing, then you can have issues either in finding the correct parts or in price if you are staying with original type parts. If you are hot rodding, then the restoration type part isn't a necessity and many one-year-only parts are not an issue.
Just looking for a car to enjoy, not hot rodding. Just a weekend car fulfilling a childhood dream of wanting a c3 and getting the most long term value!
Just looking for a car to enjoy, not hot rodding. Just a weekend car fulfilling a childhood dream of wanting a c3 and getting the most long term value!
This is where it gets complicated.
If you were a purist on originality, the path is simple. It must be original in every way.
If you were a racer, find one with go-fast parts or one cheap so you can add go-fast parts.
If you were a restorer, find one that is as complete as possible but needs work to keep the price down. Or as good as possible with a cheap price.
If you were a hot rodder, find one that is your canvas, solid and ready for you to modify how you want.
But just one to fill the dream of owning a Corvette opens almost infinite paths. Getting the most value also complicates it as values are all over, based on what you have and which way you go.
If you don't like doing a lot of work, maybe just a little fooling with it as needed, then almost any car that is together, running, and looking good works. It won't matter if the engine is original or not, the right seats, correct color paint, and so on. however, value can be all over. someone's mismatch of parts may run great, but value-wise, you may not get much if you sell in a few years.
Likewise, a resto mod with an LS3 and 6 speed on an aftermarket chassis with a C5 suspension won't be close to stock, yet let you have a great time and may be higher priced when you sell than a stocker.
This is where you need to look at a lot, and decide what turns you on. You need to visit a club or two, and see what they deal with, what they do, and then decide what kind of car would fit in with them if you want to be part of it.
A restored car will probably hold its value, but they have been known to drop in price. but it can take the fun out of it if you worry about endangering your "investment" when you drive, and having to get only the right and expensive parts if anything breaks.
Except for a few 'unique' parts and the fact that the engine went from a 327 in '68 to the 350 in '69, those two years are very similar. If a similar '68 and '69 were available for the same money and in same condition, it would be a coin-flip for me.
03-22-2017, 10:37 AM
