ApexerER

I have had my 03 Z06 for at least 8 years now. Maybe a little longer. I remember the feeling of driving it home from a forum members house saying to myself, I can't believe I own a Z06. I haven't done a lot to the car since I have owned it. It came with a Variram, Texas Speed Headers, and Catless X-pipe into Stock Titanium exhaust. Since I have owned it I have put in a LS7 Clutch with Aluminum Flywheel. Tick Master and slave bleeder, electric exhaust cutouts, upgraded the rearend and installed 4:10 gears and car has been street tuned. I am currently waiting on getting my Bezel and radio package from DD mods to update the interior and get Bluetooth features. I run the car at the local track about 5 times per year. My best run is an 11.46. Usually the car runs 11.60-11.80. I have always wanted to go forced induction but if I run below 11.50 I have to get a full cage in the car and I am not sure I want to go that route. Lately I have been thinking about a cam. But I assume that will get me under 11.50 as well. Every spring I start thinking about doing something and wind up doing nothing because I can't make up my mind. It is kind of neat being at the track and running those times and telling people it is just a bolt on car. Do I ruin that? Really not into wheels and tires...I like the stock ones...Don't care for body kits either....Anyone have any awesome ideas?

ApexerER

Whoops,,,,forgot to say, car also has an RSD Snap shifter so shifter has been replaced...I have also toyed with the idea of making the car an auto so I can me more effective bracket racing. I really enjoy the 6 speed on the street though...

Roddy13

Sounds like you have a great car. Really dialed in with great numbers.

If you have to do something I would suggest to do full suspension and brakes. Otherwise I'd say just drive it how it is!!

ApexerER

That's what I have been doing, just driving it when I can...I don't get to put a lot of miles on it because it obviously isn't a family car but I sure do enjoy it...

MY03C5Z

Your car is very similar to mine in terms of mods, I still have stock gears though. Remember if you want bigger hp out of it with a s/c and you like to drag race your going to probably need a stronger clutch, upgrade the trans and rear to something stronger, plus needing a cage. Starts getting expensive really quick. I wouldn't want a cage in a street car, too dangerous imo. I have hit the high 11's with mine and I'm very happy with that for such basic mods and for running it on my complete street setup including tires. You start trying to run below 11.50, go to an auto, cage, blower etc and it will turn further away from a fun street car to a dedicated 1/4 mile car. Not something I want out of mine but to each their own.


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ApexerER

[QUOTE=MY03C5Z;1594363613]Your car is very similar to mine in terms of mods, I still have stock gears though. Remember if you want bigger hp out of it with a s/c and you like to drag race your going to probably need a stronger clutch, upgrade the trans and rear to something stronger, plus needing a cage. Starts getting expensive really quick. I wouldn't want a cage in a street car, too dangerous imo. I have hit the high 11's with mine and I'm very happy with that for such basic mods and for running it on my complete street setup including tires. You start trying to run below 11.50, go to an auto, cage, blower etc and it will turn further away from a fun street car to a dedicated 1/4 mile car. Not something I want out of mine but to each their own.


Yea, that's why I never do anything. I am not looking for a strictly drag car. I don't have any ideas that sound like a good idea in my head. Very happy with the car. Just was wondering if I am missing out on anything...Guess I will enjoy my new double din and drive it when I can...

MY03C5Z

If you wanted a strictly 1/4 mile car to have fun with and bracket race I would buy something else that's cheaper than a c5z. To me the c5z is great in the 1/4 but it's not what the car was designed for. It was built as a road track car, that's where these cars really shine. They aren't built to take 1/4 mile abuse, at least the stock driveline isn't. If I were going to build a dedicated 1/4 mile car I'd take something like an older S10 truck and tear into and mod it. That's just me though. It would be really hard to sell a c5z that was converted to an auto with a cage etc. Can't imagine there is a big market for them like there is for a close to stock z.

skydiven4fun

WannaC5Z

Here's one for you and the road I went down with my former Mustang Cobra. I had been doing some drag racing at the local track for two years. Then I finally gave in to a club member's suggestion to try road racing. Never looked back! That opens up a whole new game for you. Get a set of 10.5" rims with slicks, steel braided front brake lines, and start getting seat time. Then when you get the hang of it upgrade the brakes and go with coilovers. That's enough to keep you busy for a while.

dork

What I've got to say is tangential and barely on the fringe of perspective, but I'll say it anyway. Your car and mine are very similar in their mods.

Mine has Callaway Honker CAI, XSPower LT headers, MacLeod RST clutch with 14lb flywheel, Tick master and bleeder, RPM 4.10s and a Chuck CoW tune. It's got PFADT JOC Stage 1 shocks and sways.

I've also got a 2014 c7 z51 with the FE4 suspension (mag ride). The z06 is quicker, but maybe not faster. (There's nowhere around here straight enough that'll tolerate faster than ~120 mph safely for me to try 6th [and maybe 7th gear].) That Lwt flywheel and aftermarket tune really allow the z06 to optimize (and reveal) its' OEM built-in strengths, damn the EPA.

The magnetic ride control in the z51 is a true nanny, allowing for better handling with (less skill) than the z06, but man, it's close. "Close" in the sense that a 14-year old car with a two-generation handicap can make the newest technologies (at an MSRP in the ~$70s) work hard to stay ahead in the turns. All for the price of a set of PFDATs ($1200 list) and some driveline mods. It's no match; I'm sure the z51 can outrun an old modded '03 z06 in a course easily, but I bet it'd take some good driver concentration.

I thought I'd make the comparison only because others have posed the idea of suspension mods. I'd agree; go that way first. This car wasn't made for straight-line speed although that could be its' focus--but you don't say that the driveline mods you've done were done with HP in mind. If you go over 450rwhp, you're gonna need a thick wallet aside from the rollbar costs. I don't think you can transform your current Corvette into something unrecognizable from its' present state for $1200 better than you could by changing the suspension.

The change from OEM to a lightweight flywheel was a real epiphany wasn't it? It's amazed me just how much the effect of lighter rotational mass has changed the RPM 'curve'. Some folks say that change alone was worth a couple tenths. You said you're "not into wheels and tires" but you might consider wheels anyway. True OEM wheels are surprisingly light; 19lb in front, 21 rear as I recall. There are true lightweight wheels that'll run $4-5,000 but weigh in at 25-33% less. They would add even more performance and better ETs without the ramifications of modding that older engine for even more money. Don't forget--adding more HP will make 1st gear almost useless on the street; the tires won't bite with the combination of lower gearing and a beefy cam.

I'll end my free-flow thought post now.

ApexerER

Thanks for the input. Do you feel like suspension mods would make a huge difference in street driving? I don't drive around like a maniac. I already feel the car can handle better than I am willing to drive it. I don't have an autocross course anywhere near me although I would love to try it sometime. Sway bars and shocks worth the expense for cruising around on the street?

dork

They made a very noticeable impact in my opinion. Hairpin turns, circular off/on ramps; I've not had to test them for accident avoidance panic maneuvers, but I'd include that feature in my assessment that the usual "spirited" driving classification would benefit.

If you mean by "cruising" the literal meaning--like, boulevard-cruising speeds and turning casually (as if in a commute), then, no, there's no reason for an upgrade. The ride is definitely much firmer; almost truck-like. A suspension mod like this will change the car from a strong coupe cruiser to a much more agile and predictable ride in the curves that is much more ready for performance handling.

acroy

Power:
Moderate, well-designed heads/cam. You already have the other bolt-ons. Heads/cam can still be very driveable.

Handling:
A good aftermarket suspension will feel worlds better than stock. It does not have to be crazy expensive. The DRM Bilstein setup is proven and well liked.

Driver touchpoints:
SEATS! I like Corbeau evoX. Looks great, fits awesome.
Steering wheel!

0Chuck CoW

Interesting.... Sounds like a fun car.

I'd be interested to see the same configuration with a heavy steel flywheel...

Every time I've installed (except for an 800hp C6 ZO6 we did) I was always very disappointed.

I get much of my experience with such things with my old 68' Vette back in about 1990.

Everyone suggested the aluminum flywheel and the smaller clutch and smaller ballancer too.

Even the machine shop suggested both.....

I'm a rear gear / trans ratio fan and I declined everyone's advice and went with the heaviest combo of parts I could find.

The end result was a motor that (high compression) snapped to attention with throttle and a combination

that easily beat out most other cars around at the time....

I always believed that the heavy mass..... forced into the upper RPMs given the diff ratio and Doug Nash 5 speed trans...

Was unstoppable once the rpms came up and the car was a monster.

Since then I've always steered away from aluminum flywheels.

I assume that a motor will real power would benefit from the heavier parts and a weaker motor would lose out

given the loss of mass and momentum.

Later in my career some customers brought be aluminum flywheels to install... some imports and a 2006 Viper come to mind...

Trying to get the car going from a start and also wacking it at rpm the cars had to GO.... Which I attribute to the lighter flywheel...

I've always stuck with that rule.... I'd be very interested to see what you guys have done or if you have any comparison

before / after stories to tell with the same vehicle???


Either way, if the car feels like you want to invest more in it.... I might suggest a 6060 trans conversion.

We just finished an 02 ZO6 with 4.10s and some custom 6060 trans ratios....

I expect the car to be a lot of fun with the gear changes the customer wanted....

I'd like to hear some of your input.

Chuck CoW

ApexerER

Thank you for the response. You know, when I first put the clutch in the car, I had a terrible time launching it. My 60 ft times still are not as good as they were with the stock clutch/flywheel. I kept telling my buddy that I hate the aluminum flywheel. It isn't keeping the momentum up when I release the clutch and it is much harder to slip. He has been telling me for two years it is all in my head. I don't feel like the car revs any faster. I assume that is because the LS7 clutch and aluminum flywheel weigh about the same as the LS6 clutch. I was afraid of keeping the steel flywheel and the extra weight. I have the steel flywheel for the LS7 clutch on the shelf and if I ever tear everything out, I may throw it in to see if I like it better. Sounds like I would from your experience.

JLZ06TR

how about trying some autox or trackdays with the z. Might change your whole outlook on what to do next with it.

0Chuck CoW

Sometimes RACE parts are not always best....

The aluminum flywheel thing comes to mind. The few times I tried them on my own or at customers request,

I was always VERY disappointed.... Starting off was always trouble and you could rev it up and dump the clutch....

And the car would fall flat on it's face....

I had a 4 cyl car once and we did the aluminum flywheel for a customer and you could barely drive it as

the engine had no torque and no rotating mass and when you let up on the clutch the engine would buck and stall....

Regardless of what people think about "saving rotating weight" I think it's foolish.

A big block engine is not much more displacement than a small block in most cases.....and the big blocks have

LOTS of grunt.... One of the reasons is that once you get that MASS of parts moving....The inertia KEEPS IT MOVING.

I don't do aluminum flywheels ever.....
Chuck CoW

Zeeb

Maybe I missed it but I don't think anyone recommend a mild shot of nitrous for the strip. I would do it and run delay/ramp electronics. I would bring it easy and a bit late to help against the wind. You need to approach such things smartly to avoid detonation and over-stressing, but a 100 shot on a LS6 should be fine, if done right. And it will most certainly lower your ET, by quite a bit.

racebum

aluminum flywheels are fine with an organic disc where you can slip and rpm match. you basically keep into the gas gradually as you let out the clutch

that said i HATE them with aggressive friction materials. you get what's said in the above posts. you can't feather metallic clutches and kevlar gets fried if you do it so you either burn off the tires and get a knee jerk or a bog and go launch

ideally you go twin disc if it's a high hp car. high friction single discs have too many drawbacks. hard to road race. hard to drive in traffic. acceptable for drag racing

a twin can do all 3 and do it well.

0Chuck CoW

Very good perspective......Good info, but my only problem is that no matter what friction you slip.....

It is only going to make for more problems as the steel "insert" or friction face of the aluminum flywheel

over heats and becomes garbage because there is no contiguous "mass" of steel to absorb the heat

so no matter what friction you use it get's incinerated in a short time.

Certainly you can do that with track cars, but you can't set a customer up like that if they want it to last

in a street driven car IMHO...

Chuck CoW