Electronic ignition in a 1967
#1
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Electronic ignition in a 1967
I have a 1967 Convertible with 48,000 miles with a 327/300 HP which is a numbers matching survivor that I have owned for 24 years that is going to have the engine rebuilt and it has been suggested to convert to electronic ignition. It has been unreliable for years and I hate to make the change but am leaning toward going with the electronic ignition for reliability. I'd love input on this. Thanks!
#2
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there are thousand of threads on this. bottom line do you like to do points maintenance or not. there really is no advantage beside lack of maintenance.
#3
I have a 1967 Convertible with 48,000 miles with a 327/300 HP which is a numbers matching survivor that I have owned for 24 years that is going to have the engine rebuilt and it has been suggested to convert to electronic ignition. It has been unreliable for years and I hate to make the change but am leaning toward going with the electronic ignition for reliability. I'd love input on this. Thanks!
#4
If you do decide to go electronic keep it simple. Recently I changed over to the standard Pertronics unit which is all in your stock distributor and looks like nothing has been changed. It uses your stock ignition coil and I get super quick starts and excellent performance.
I did buy and extra Pertronics kit to keep in the car as a spare in case it ever fails out on the road I can replace and go. Word has it that the standard Pertronics 1 set up is the most reliable with a lower failure rate than Pertronics 2 or 3 set ups. The advantage with points is you can clean and reset them on the road, but condensers and coils can fail too.
I did buy and extra Pertronics kit to keep in the car as a spare in case it ever fails out on the road I can replace and go. Word has it that the standard Pertronics 1 set up is the most reliable with a lower failure rate than Pertronics 2 or 3 set ups. The advantage with points is you can clean and reset them on the road, but condensers and coils can fail too.
#5
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I have to assume there is a mechanical problem as it was "worked" on replacing valve guide seals and was returned and I was told to give it time and the rings would seat. 150 miles, tremendous smoking and 6 quarts of oil and I feel my only alternative is rebuild.
#6
Team Owner
You have enough variables going on without piling on more. Stay with points; then after the engine is straightened out if you're determined to go electronic then go Breakerless SE from Lectric Limited. It'll work with all your stock components so you aren't chasing more gremlins.
I don't know where the rumor that Pertronix I is more reliable than II or III; its simply not true. You could burn up a I by just leaving your key on without running the motor for a few minutes....it had none of the protections of the later versions...
Unless you do some tricks with the wiring a Pertronix is detectable externally; a Breakerless SE is not. Mine passed regional NCRS judging without a hitch...both ops checks and mechanicals..
I don't know where the rumor that Pertronix I is more reliable than II or III; its simply not true. You could burn up a I by just leaving your key on without running the motor for a few minutes....it had none of the protections of the later versions...
Unless you do some tricks with the wiring a Pertronix is detectable externally; a Breakerless SE is not. Mine passed regional NCRS judging without a hitch...both ops checks and mechanicals..
#7
Race Director
Screw the nay sayers on electronic ignition systems. If you like removing the ignition shielding every year or two to change points, go for it. My Lectric Limited system has worked for 10 years while putting 3000 plus miles on per year. I make sure my top ignition shield stays nice by wiping it down with a spray waxed microfiber everytime I check the oil dipstick.
#8
I agree with everyone about the breakerless SE ignition. IMO, I would find the source or the oil consumption, six quarts should not be to hard to trouble shoot, try to find out if the problem is in the heads or piston rings. Get more info before you start spending $$$.
#9
On Pertronics, I was told by a speed shop owner who has been around a long time to stick with the standard version because in his experience it was the most reliable of the 3. That's were I heard this.
Last edited by ILBMF; 03-24-2017 at 06:54 AM.
#10
Drifting
Looks like you put at most 2000 miles a year on the car. I don't know how many miles between point adjustments or replacement are necessary. It would seem that with stock points, you wouldn't have to maintain them for years, and they have peen proven to be reliable if everything is set up correctly.
Gerry
Gerry
#11
Team Owner
With the later versions installations got confusing vis a vis ballast resistor/no-ballast resistor, high-voltage coil or not, spiral vs solid-core plug wires, etc.. Many failures related to those issues which garnered the later versions a bad name...
I now recommend the Breakerless SE for those very reasons - its hard to dick up the install and create self-induced problems
#12
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I have a 1967 Convertible with 48,000 miles with a 327/300 HP which is a numbers matching survivor that I have owned for 24 years that is going to have the engine rebuilt and it has been suggested to convert to electronic ignition. It has been unreliable for years and I hate to make the change but am leaning toward going with the electronic ignition for reliability. I'd love input on this. Thanks!
In this post you speak in the "past tense" with the word "worked" on! In this post it sounds like the engine had some kind of serious work done, such as new rings based on your statement "I was told to give it time and the rings would seat". What is the REAL story on this? We here on the CF are more than willing to provide good advise/suggestion, but the story need some foundation. Dennis