Block Issue: Cracked where Starter Bolts In
#1
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Block Issue: Cracked where Starter Bolts In
I just found out my 327 block is cracked where the starter bolts and will not bolt in properly. Not the original engine for my '66. Mechanic said there is a machine shop that would cut the starter mounting off and weld another in its place. The machine shop apparently performs this for marine applications.
Is this worth the risk? Any other options other than replacing block/engine?
Is this worth the risk? Any other options other than replacing block/engine?
#2
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In '86, the machine shop that did my machining found a crack on a main web at a main cap bolt hole. Oh __it! I said. They had it, as I understand it, furnaced welded. That was about 125K miles back. You should not have a problem in my estimation. Dennis
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ike286107 (03-24-2017)
#3
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That is encouraging! It runs so great that I really don't want to or need to replace it. Had the suspension totally redone about 18 months ago and was really driving her!
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Phrase that comes to mind: Can of worms.
First, why is it cracked? I would not spend money to fix it without knowing as well as having the block magna fluxed to check for any other cracks.
Also, what is it about the crack that prevents the starter from bolting up? Pictures?
Welding cast iron is a very specialized process that not many do,and unless somebody has come up with a new and better way to do it, involves heating up the block red hot. That means a complete engine removal/teardown.
Since you're into a serious weld repair, plus a complete teardown and magnaflux, and since it's not the original engine, I would be looking into other alternatives at or close to the same cost.
First, why is it cracked? I would not spend money to fix it without knowing as well as having the block magna fluxed to check for any other cracks.
Also, what is it about the crack that prevents the starter from bolting up? Pictures?
Welding cast iron is a very specialized process that not many do,and unless somebody has come up with a new and better way to do it, involves heating up the block red hot. That means a complete engine removal/teardown.
Since you're into a serious weld repair, plus a complete teardown and magnaflux, and since it's not the original engine, I would be looking into other alternatives at or close to the same cost.
Last edited by Easy Rhino; 03-24-2017 at 04:30 PM.
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Not a good feeling, think Easy Rhino is right
If someone really knows what they are doing and you dont mind a little risk then...not too many that do it these days at least correctly.
Keep us posted
If someone really knows what they are doing and you dont mind a little risk then...not too many that do it these days at least correctly.
Keep us posted
Last edited by cv67; 03-24-2017 at 04:40 PM.
#6
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I think someone is blowing smoke up yer butt, but post a pic here and let us look at it. If it is just the outer starter bolt, I myself would weld it in the car and helicoil it. It does NOT need to heated cherry red to TIG weld. And this is not rocket science. Don't scrap it yet.
#7
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I think someone is blowing smoke up yer butt, but post a pic here and let us look at it. If it is just the outer starter bolt, I myself would weld it in the car and helicoil it. It does NOT need to heated cherry red to TIG weld. And this is not rocket science. Don't scrap it yet.
I've never heard of having to weld up a V-8 block for this problem but I understand it is quite common to do on four cylinder Chevy marine engines for some reasons. I don't know why.
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#9
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At this point I am going to get the car back from the shop and weigh the options. When I do, I will see if I can get some pictures.....seems like that would help with advice.
#10
Safety Car
I welded one in a suburban last year. Pretty hard to do in the vehicle. A car would be easier because the engine is lower and more accessible. Out of the car most competent machine shops should be able to do it. For something like that a nickel stick rod is more than adequate. I built a 396 for a friend last August and it was cracked there, welded it up. Post pics, if it's not as bad as the suburban I might have a different suggestion. On the suburban they had busted the entire side of the bolt hole away. Many years ago in a production shop it was quite common to get core engines that were dropped with the starter on and it would crack this boss. I fixed them regularly then. If you find some one that knows what they're doing its no issue at all.
Last edited by Robert61; 03-24-2017 at 06:53 PM.
#11
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Unfortunately I am not sure where you are directing me MikeM.
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#13
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There are people in your neck of the woods that do these sorts of fixes. Doing a quick search, I found:
http://www.jeimportperformance.com/JE/welding-services/
http://automachineshop.net/cylinder.php
http://georgemillermachine.com/page-2
Not that I have used any of the above, but there are people near you that do this sort of work.
I'd call around and see what you can find.
-- Joe
http://www.jeimportperformance.com/JE/welding-services/
http://automachineshop.net/cylinder.php
http://georgemillermachine.com/page-2
Not that I have used any of the above, but there are people near you that do this sort of work.
I'd call around and see what you can find.
-- Joe
#14
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DON'T LET ANYONE CUT THE EAR OFF OF THAT BLOCK.
Find a competent weld shop and they will PT the crack to find the end of it and drill a hole to stop the cracking. Then, they will preheat the cast iron to prep it for welding with nickel rod (I prefer TIG, but MIG or SMAW is OK too) and then slowly cool the weld area after welding to prevent the weld from cracking.
You need a welder, not a mechanic.
They or you may need to retap the hole for the bolt, but not a big deal even if you need to add a 3/8"-16 TPI Helicoil.
Find a competent weld shop and they will PT the crack to find the end of it and drill a hole to stop the cracking. Then, they will preheat the cast iron to prep it for welding with nickel rod (I prefer TIG, but MIG or SMAW is OK too) and then slowly cool the weld area after welding to prevent the weld from cracking.
You need a welder, not a mechanic.
They or you may need to retap the hole for the bolt, but not a big deal even if you need to add a 3/8"-16 TPI Helicoil.
#17
Was the engine used without the front starter brace?
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I think someone is blowing smoke up yer butt, but post a pic here and let us look at it. If it is just the outer starter bolt, I myself would weld it in the car and helicoil it. It does NOT need to heated cherry red to TIG weld. And this is not rocket science. Don't scrap it yet.
#20
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I just found out my 327 block is cracked where the starter bolts and will not bolt in properly. Not the original engine for my '66. Mechanic said there is a machine shop that would cut the starter mounting off and weld another in its place. The machine shop apparently performs this for marine applications.
Is this worth the risk? Any other options other than replacing block/engine?
Is this worth the risk? Any other options other than replacing block/engine?