719c6

I have the dreaded wobble on my 05 with 50,XXX miles. Changed to a Gatorback belt and the chirp stopped but it's gonna be time for the a swap soon.

I have been looking for a good video to assist in doing it myself. Anyone have some good ones bookmarked?

Thanks!

Joey D

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...procedure.html

HK770

You'll find a couple of damper install Vids on youtube.


Would not use GM damper use aftermarket and ARP bolt and follow their torque specs.
Replace front seal while your there.
I used ATI super damper. Your millage may very

a few tools you will need , you can find some rent free at your local auto parts store.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Proform-6651...QAAOSw32lYn4Re


http://www.saccitycorvette.com/AlignItTools.html

719c6

Any good links for videos for the procedure? Mainly getting the steering rack out?

HK770

flyned

The problem with all the youtubes I found was none had a helper to hold the cam so the critical moves were not recorded. Great effort but I never did see the actual extraction. We spent hours and the rack would not come out. We got the job done by lowering the k member and removing the fan shroud to give some room in front of the pulley. Only move rack to right side but did not remove. Use old belt as strap wrench around pulley to lock crank. Took us 5 minutes to wrap the belt and remove the crank bolt with never even seeing the starter or finding the locking tool. The k member will come down more it you loosen the shocks. It is possible to lower it enough to do the job with never touching the rack.
Good Luck

lovinmyls1

The k member will come down more it you loosen the shocks. It is possible to lower it enough to do the job with never touching the rack.
Good Luck[/QUOTE]

Has any forum member done that? If it could be done that way it would be a great time saver. And make a difficult job somewhat easier.

Not So Fast

I know the day is coming and I wish I had the knowledge and talent to do it myself but not happening

NSF

torquetube

That's how I did it.

I braced the engine in position and lowered the subframe with steering rack attached. I disconnected the motor mounts, outer tie rod ball joints, and lower control arm ball joints. I also removed the anti-roll bar bushing caps so the bar hung down, detached the power steering cooler from the subframe, and disconnected the steering gear at the slip joint.

Afterward I had the car aligned but it didn't need it. The locator pins in the subframe do a good job of positioning it repeatably.

Crazy forces are required to remove and install the balancer. The factory flywheel locker is very much worth having.

lovinmyls1

Kind of sounds just as involved as the other way.

torquetube

The total number of steps is about the same, but this way you don't have to disconnect power steering hydraulics or fuss with the rack mounts. Save your energy for fighting the harmonic balancer.

719c6

No kiddin'! All I could do to brake it free and then torquing it back down was a real booger too. But the re-assembly was alot easier than the take-down.

Thanks for all the help!

AzMotorhead

Drive it down to Phoenix and I'll take care of it for you

lovinmyls1

If or when I have to do this, the heavy work will be done by my son, a real gym rat....benched 350lbs....so I have that covered.