radar502

I cleaned out my master with new fluid sat over night and the next day was very black ,I did not drive the 04 just sat . I tried to vac the fluid out of the slave I could not get anything out of it ?? I am thinking the black is seals going bad ,does anybody know what turns the fluid black . The clutch seems to work Ok if normal driving .. 80,000 miles might be stock slave ??

radar502

Got to be seals going bad ,got to be something going on to turn the fluid black . one vote for the seal going bad ??? What do you think?

jmohn

Search for "ranger method" it will at least give you some information and theories.

Jmohn

feeder82

its common, I just sucked it out with a turkey baster, and refilled it with clean fluid a couple of times until it was clean again,

Rabbitman

The black is clutch dust, it gets into all of them even if the seal is good. I'm discovering this myself and doing the Ranger method till I get a bleeder hose ect.

Whatsa347

Ranger method is a bandaid, if it's your only means of changing your fluid then by all means it's worth it, but a remote bleeder line is the way to go during your next clutch swap, they're worth their weight in gold.

radar502

Clutch dust , I never ,well back to the drawing board .. Well the fluid I use cost $80.00 Qt. and just putting the old fluid in drain pan is not cheap ,it gets black after every hard run. I guess you got to do what you got to do .. Thanks for the info I would never through it was clutch dust .. Why Gm had to have salve right up next to the clutch ?????could have moved the slave away from the clutch ,don't have to be inside the bell housing .. Thanks ..

Whatsa347

Never buy expensive fluid, it's impossible for it to not get contaminated, a bleeder line and cheap dot 4 is all you need. If you get up underneath your bellhousing you can see if a bunch of dust is caked on, that'll indicate a lot about your setup, organic clutches spew it everywhere. This is why I preach bleeder lines, if you actually drive your car down a track or daily it the ranger method won't cut it, it also wears out your master faster as well and it doesn't take much to start getting leaks internally, for $50 you alleviate so many problems.

v6turbo87

Not sure what you are buying for $80 a quart but factory spec is
DOT 3 Brake fluid,

Capt Mike

DOT 3 is the GM recommended fluid, Spoke to GM Tech Rep personally

DOT 3 is Hygroscopic, attracts moisture

Dark colored DOT 3 fluid is caused by Contaminates, moisture, steel, aluminum,,,,

I Bleed or Siphon out the clutch and brake fluids yearly and have had excellent results, on all eight vehicles.

Some Auto Manufactures recommend yearly brake & clutch fluid bleeding.

Anyone who has owned a C3 Corvette with the Four Pistons rotors know this well.

I use Dot 5 in my brake systems.

radar502

Well its not a track car but I do have set of track tires and wheels and on some weekends I run with my buds for the club at tracks in S. TX . and OK. and other places . We run hard and the dot what ever is good for going to the 7-11 and back not for 155 MPH slamming on brakes 6500 shift and do it over and over 15 -20 laps things tend to get hot ,using the $80.00 Qt fluid to help try to keep the fluid from boiling ,with headers 525 HP things getting hot . The fluid I am trying has a wet boiling point 439 F ,the Dot 3 is like 229 F I think I am boiling the fluid and is breaking down and by doing so is causing lots of problems that I relay have a fix for.