NSITH: Or Not Sure If This Helps : Shifter and Turn Signal Hard, and light gears
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
NSITH: Or Not Sure If This Helps : Shifter and Turn Signal Hard, and light gears
So - as some of you know I recently acquired a 1995 Arctic white Base C4 with zf6...
Now, With the "Giddiness" blinders on for the first week, after I took them off, and after a few weeks, the Annoying things became vissible that I decided to attempt to fix/address them...
Very Hard To Shift: Resolved but need more research
I was noticing on a few drives that it was hard to shift into first and reverse but even some of the other gears I would have to put a bit of force to get it into the gear.
So I used Google to Search the Issue... Many links back to this here forum and a lot of "Doom and Gloom" about rebuilding a ZF tranny started to make me nervous...
But someone recommended here to check the fluid for the clutch... Yup, it was dry..... I filled it with Fluid... And man it shifts like a dream! But I will be scheduling probably a replacement of the Master Cylinder and possibly the Slave Because there may be a leak... Time will tell still shifting well after a week+....
Really Hard to use the turn signal and bright lights.. Resolved
I had noticed it on the test drive. but it seemed like it was getting worse. There were times I felt as if the whole blinker lever was going to snap off with the amount of force necessary to engage the blinker and my hand would sometimes slip and engage the wipers.
So I used Google to Search the Issue... Many links back to this here forum and a lot of "Doom and Gloom" about rebuilding the steering column started to make me nervous...
I decided to take a chance... I went into my tool shed and grabbed my trusty can of Dielectric Silicon spray... At least I think that's what it is...It was a spray cleaner I got for rheostats (Volume *****) for my vintage home stereo. I used the spray tube and got inside it.
I have to say, I was disappointed with the initial results. It was better but inconsistently so... The weather got bad and thus I did not drive the car for a few days. Last night I took her out and when I engaged the blinker I was very pleasantly surprised how it felt like a new blinker assembly! Both left and right and then I pulled to engage brights and it was amazing...
Lights make the dreaded thump noises... Pending
Yeah, I swear they worked perfectly during the test drive but as soon as I got home. rights side goes: "Thump, thump, thump, thump" after they go up or down... Bushings probably.... I ordered replacement Bushings and gears off of Amazon.
Here is a question, though: What kind of grease should I use when I rebuild the assemblies? Silicon based? Lithium? All the video and such say "high Temp" grease? Well, that doesn't really narrow it down... I mean Bearing grease can get pretty hot but??? My Gut says Silicon for plastics right?
Other issues that will be addressed in no particular order:
All in all, I'm still happy... She pulls in second gear like there is no tomorrow... I still have a grin on my face when I look at her
Now, With the "Giddiness" blinders on for the first week, after I took them off, and after a few weeks, the Annoying things became vissible that I decided to attempt to fix/address them...
Very Hard To Shift: Resolved but need more research
I was noticing on a few drives that it was hard to shift into first and reverse but even some of the other gears I would have to put a bit of force to get it into the gear.
So I used Google to Search the Issue... Many links back to this here forum and a lot of "Doom and Gloom" about rebuilding a ZF tranny started to make me nervous...
But someone recommended here to check the fluid for the clutch... Yup, it was dry..... I filled it with Fluid... And man it shifts like a dream! But I will be scheduling probably a replacement of the Master Cylinder and possibly the Slave Because there may be a leak... Time will tell still shifting well after a week+....
Really Hard to use the turn signal and bright lights.. Resolved
I had noticed it on the test drive. but it seemed like it was getting worse. There were times I felt as if the whole blinker lever was going to snap off with the amount of force necessary to engage the blinker and my hand would sometimes slip and engage the wipers.
So I used Google to Search the Issue... Many links back to this here forum and a lot of "Doom and Gloom" about rebuilding the steering column started to make me nervous...
I decided to take a chance... I went into my tool shed and grabbed my trusty can of Dielectric Silicon spray... At least I think that's what it is...It was a spray cleaner I got for rheostats (Volume *****) for my vintage home stereo. I used the spray tube and got inside it.
I have to say, I was disappointed with the initial results. It was better but inconsistently so... The weather got bad and thus I did not drive the car for a few days. Last night I took her out and when I engaged the blinker I was very pleasantly surprised how it felt like a new blinker assembly! Both left and right and then I pulled to engage brights and it was amazing...
Lights make the dreaded thump noises... Pending
Yeah, I swear they worked perfectly during the test drive but as soon as I got home. rights side goes: "Thump, thump, thump, thump" after they go up or down... Bushings probably.... I ordered replacement Bushings and gears off of Amazon.
Here is a question, though: What kind of grease should I use when I rebuild the assemblies? Silicon based? Lithium? All the video and such say "high Temp" grease? Well, that doesn't really narrow it down... I mean Bearing grease can get pretty hot but??? My Gut says Silicon for plastics right?
Other issues that will be addressed in no particular order:
- Stereo... Sounded OK at first... I mean it worked... But kick panel speakers are dead... Meh...
- Aftermarket Alarm System.... Sucks!
- Door Keys that I got...Open nothing....Not even the doors...
All in all, I'm still happy... She pulls in second gear like there is no tomorrow... I still have a grin on my face when I look at her
#2
To solve this you might visit a GM dealer and ask the parts dept to do a "Key Call" for you, be sure to have ID and registration for the car.
They can request key codes that are on file to the build but there's no confirmation other than to just check. They will get both the Ignition (mechanical cut - no resistance) and the Door mechanical codes. They should be able to look at your keys and confirm they're a match or NOT. The Parts Dept may or may NOT charge for the service and some might not actually do it for you if the car isn't in their shop, it wasn't purchased from them or you have a relationship with the dealer.
There's nothing that says they "MUST" -
They can request key codes that are on file to the build but there's no confirmation other than to just check. They will get both the Ignition (mechanical cut - no resistance) and the Door mechanical codes. They should be able to look at your keys and confirm they're a match or NOT. The Parts Dept may or may NOT charge for the service and some might not actually do it for you if the car isn't in their shop, it wasn't purchased from them or you have a relationship with the dealer.
There's nothing that says they "MUST" -
#3
Instructor
So - as some of you know I recently acquired a 1995 Arctic white Base C4 with zf6...
All in all, I'm still happy... She pulls in second gear like there is no tomorrow... I still have a grin on my face when I look at her
- Door Keys that I got...Open nothing....Not even the doors...
All in all, I'm still happy... She pulls in second gear like there is no tomorrow... I still have a grin on my face when I look at her
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hmmm... Theoretically? Would it not be easier to pull the cylinder for the storage box and cut from that?
#5
The storage compartment doesn't use a "full pinning" combination for operation.
*Does the key actually fit the cylinder but doesn't turn OR doesn't even fit the cylinder?
Last edited by WVZR-1; 03-30-2017 at 04:20 PM.