1986TPIred

Hello everyone. I'm new to the site so I hope this is going to the right place. I have a 1986 Corvette that I rescued from going to salvage yard. The car has been sitting since 2002. I have rebuilt the factory TPI engine. My problem is the car will not start (nothing happens when I turn the key). I believe it has something to do with the VATS. I have spliced a resistor in place of the key like all the web sites I visited said to do. The car still will not do anything. The SECURITY and ABS light comes on when I turn the key to the start position.
Please Help.

hcbph

First off, did you splice in the correct resistor when you modified the wiring and where did you splice it into? There are 2 wires that come out of the bottom of the steering column (one is orange IIRC) that has a connector about 12"-18" from the column. You need the correct resistor value based on the key resistor connected to the wire going away from the column, and have disconnected that connector (or cut it but prefer disconnecting). If it's wrong, it sets something in the electronics for 3-5 minutes IIRC so if it fails due to the resistor, you just can't keep trying, you have to wait.
There's also a switch on the clutch (assuming it's a manual) or a switch on the shifter for automatics that also have to be engaged to start.
Worst case, get a remote starter, turn the key to on and try starting the car that way. It would help narrow things down.

ABS and security lights are not interconnected AFAIK so start with one and get it resolved then go onto the next.

If you're serious about working on your car, get the FSM as it will help a lot.

Good luck.

86project

Hello 1986TPIred, I also bought an 86 recently, about 6 months ago as a project. Haven't had a problem with the security system, it started up after replacing the fuel pump & sending unit. 86 is the first year of the Corvette ABS system which has been a pain not only for me but others as well, new ones don't exist and no one rebuilds them, I couldn't bleed the brakes so ended up bypassing the ABS & did a power bleed.

I know its a simple thing but does your battery have a full charge? When I first got mine there was enough power to light up the dash but not enough to turn the engine over, gave it a full charge and it turned over.

I'm in the process of replacing U-joints in the rear drive train now, so its one thing after the other with these cars! Sorry I couldn't offer more, let me know how yours turns out.

1986TPIred

Thanks to everyone for the reply. I do have the correct resistor spliced into the 2 wires coming from under the steering colum. I also have the clutch safety switch jumped out due the fact the switch is bad. I have replaced the starter interrupt relay along with the starter but still nothing. The battery is brand new and has a good charge. I will try all the suggestions before using the car for target practice.
Once again thanks for all the info.

flanders

I have read that the VATS will not work for 4 to 5 mins after a incorrect resistance even if the correct resistance is in place.
Still takes 4 to 5 mins to reset.

Make sure that the resistors you have are run in series and not run parallel.

Use your OHm meter and check the key resistance then check you resistor resistance and make sure they are darn near close.

I'll bet the VATS is still not reading the correct resistance.

joeld

The starter enable relay is part of the vats system. This relay will not energize the starter if the vats module does not read the correct ohm from key.
First, hook a test light light to the starter solenoid and turn the key to "start". Does the test light come on, if so, then the vats is not the problem.
If light does not come, starter enable relay is "possibly" being locked out due to vats.


Joel

1986TPIred

I have checked the key with an ohm meter and have the correct resistors in series.. The starter interrupt relay clicks when I turn the key to the start position. Also the fuel pump does come on when key is in the on position. I have researched this problem on the web for a month and have tried everything everyone sais to try. I will try a remote start switch next and hope for the best. The man I got the car from said he had no problems with the car cranking when he parked it on 2002. I had to go to 20K ohm on my meter to get a reading (9.56K)on the key. The resistors I have spliced in are (9.60K ohms) Should this work?
Thanks again for all the info.

Sid.123

9530 ohms is a number 14 key chip I believe...
i would start by checking out the starter as has been said before...you could be getting to involved when it could just be a bad connection on the starter motor... check you have a good 12v feed to the energiser wire and volt test and volt drop the main terminal to make sure you have a strong feed there... then you can work backwards

nice to see a few more 86's getting back on the road... mine won't feel so lonely....

1986TPIred

Sounds like good advise K.I.S.S.
Thanks