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07-11-2015, 08:37 PM
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Drifting
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duplicate thread. the original thread is not 'searchable' anymore and can not be found easily, so making this duplicate here. original thread is (was)..
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tallation.html
Stuff i used to install both front and rear cameras...
A- monitor with duel input (to have front & back) , 3.5"
B- camera for front
C- camera for rear (special usage explained later)
D- fuse for 'add a circuit' , 2 or 3 as low amp used
E- zip ties
F- ground connectors , 2 used
G- line connectors , red ones better as wire is smaller generally
H- quick connectors , 2 used to connect to rear backup lights for rear cam
I- 3M tape SJ3560
J- button switch
K- extra length of RCA cord to get from rear to monitor
L- some red and black wire
N- good ole black electrical tape
O- touch-up paint for rear cam (optional)
P- add a circuit
Q- split wire cover
R- black RTV
i shop alot at Amazon, but seriously, searching you can find this everywhere, maybe even paid vendors here!!
A - 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for Car / Automobile (note: to pop the back stand off, twist it upside down, pop off carefully)
B - Esky EC170-06 World Smallest HD Color CCD Waterproof Vehicle Car Rear View Backup Camera, 170 Degree Viewing Angle Rearview Camera(0.86*0.65*0.50 inch)
C - 1/4" CCD Flush Mount Waterproof Truck Car Reverse Backup Rear View Camera , something i didnt try, it looks sorta large, but would function great to swivel down some in the 'fixed' hole!!...... Wild-us 360 Degree High Definition Eyeball CCD Waterproof Vehicle Backup Camera with Ruler Line and Wide Angle....... SEE NOTE ADDED AT BOTTOM ABOUT REAR CAM
G - Huaha Terminal E-FMY250N-50 22/18-Gauge Economy Nylon Fully-Insulated Male-Female Quick Disconnects
H - Bluecell Pack of 50pcs Solderless Wire Quick Splice Connector, 22-18 Wire Range
I - 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener SJ3560 250 Clear, 1 in x 6 Ft
J - Joyluxy® QN16C2 Latching Metal Push Button Switch 3A/250VAC 1NO1NC SPDT ON/OFF Industrial Car Switch with 5 Pins Suitable for 16mm 5/8" Mounting Hole - Black Shell Blue Light (or this switch.. iiMash 16mm 12V Black Plastic Self-locking Annular Blue Led Lighted Push Button Switch)
K - RCA Audio / Video Extension Cable, RCA Male to RCA Female, 12 foot
P - E Support 12v Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder Pack of 5
Q - Install Bay Split Loom 1/4 Inch 100 Foot Coil - SLT14
R - J-B Weld 31319 Black RTV Sealant - 3 oz.
Front view
I used zip-ties to give some slack to the line coming out of the cam , but fasten the line in place before heading into engine compartment
Note that the line enters a small preexisting gap (purple circle) , you can see the gap light if you look in the grill, i used a clothes hanger to poke in the gap and pull the cam line through the slit. Then used RTV to re-close the gap and prevent rain water from entering while driving. Red line shows wire from cam. Red circle a good place for cam ground.
The red circles is where you can pass line inside, and comes out at the purple circle , used clothes hanger again to attach line and pull it through. You can pass the line under the rubber door seal to enter cabin.
Line enters cabin and goes up as noted in red line. Yellow circles are where i cut vent attachments so that i could pass the monitor cable ends through the vent. Monitor plug ends are attached to the cam RCA cable and the positive line from cam (positive & negative from fuse panel through switch will attached later)
Monitor 3.5" turned sideways to fit in the space.
Purple line is + from from cam and monitor along with - from monitor (- from cam was grounded earlier in engine compartment), heading into cabin to be attached to console switch. red line is cam rca cable arriving from the rear (shown later). blue is cam rca cable from front cam.
Purple line is again, the + & - wires heading to console on/off switch. (should have used split cable cover, will later)
+/- from wiper 'add a circuit' heading for the on/off button switch
Button switch. You will have to raise the console about 6", do not have to totally remove it. Be careful to drill the hole about 1/8" below the white thread. Inside you will have to put on the button switch nut and you need a little space above it, plus you cut into the white trim thread and it will fray and not be neat. Hole must not be bigger than the switch part you insert, the button lip on the outside is small, you wouldnt want the switch to fall in the first time you press it!! Recommend you drill test hole in some scrap, test fit!! You can have led never on, on only when pressed, or on all the time you have power from fuse panel. (i did all the time when power present, your choice). Also you can have momentary or clickon/clickoff. (momentary seems bad to press and drive) Here is a nice UTube to understand how to raise the console enough to reach under, which is all you need to do. The part about removing the gearshift **** can be bypassed. You need only watch until 8min10sec, at which point you can reach under. Hint: solder your three 8-12" leads on the switch , insulate solder points VERY good, then insert leads and switch into hole from outside, thread three switch leads into nut, run nut to switch and screw on tight, then attach your three leads to + in from fuse panel, +out to front cam&monitor, -wire to monitor&fuse panel ground.
Power on distance test. (actually after i got rear & front completed)
Installed rear camera, top two are before touchup painted. (painted the tag screw/bolts while doing cam touchup!)
The rear cam kit had a drill "D" , outside of hole ring "A" that will be unscrewed from actual cam "B". "C" is a metal prong ring that will be inside of the drilled hole so cam wont fall out of the car, the ring "A" screws on outside car so cam doesn't fall inside (you'll figure this out when you get the kit and try it in the hole you drill). Remove both right hand tail lights , reach in, make sure where you drill, you wont drill into some existing wire bundles. I unscrewed "A" held it against car where i wanted to drill, drew a circle around it on the car for drill location. Pulled "A" away, put drill in middle of the circle i drew, drilled hole. Its final, do it right, you have a hole!!! Put cam from inside into hole, screw "A" back onto cam. Cam +/- wire will go to wire bundle to... backup light + is light green wire (NOT dark green!) and backup light - is black wire, bundle is inside right taillight and down a little, you can disconnect and pull it out. Use clam style quick connectors to get your + to light green and your - to black wire. The cam RCA cable will have to go through the plastic into the car, open cover inside see where it's safe to drill, drill through plastic as shown in the right hand picture (i found from another person's posting) , run rca cam cable from inside taillight area into inside of car. Use black RTV to plug hole where rca cable went through.
Red line shows where RCA rear cam cable runs. You can easily tuck it under trim & rubber seals. I had mine in split cable cover, you probably don't have to use it. The bottom right just shows where to tuck all your extra rca cable and zip tie it.
Red line is the rear cam RCA cable still heading for the monitor. Purple is the +/- heading from monitor (and + from front cam) heading for on/off switch. Blue was the front cam RCA cable
All attached
This shows you the 3M SJ3560 used to attach the monitor to dash area. Neat stuff, NO HOLES drilled!!!
Back up cam view. Engine running, on/off button pressed and car in reverse. The monitor has duel cam inputs, it shows cam 1 (yellow monitor plug) and automaticly switches to cam 2 if a signal is activated on it (white monitor plug).
Note... the rear cam can NOT be tilted as it's firm in the drilled hole. If you want to point down and see closer to the rear of the car, the 'cam in hole' is not a good idea. You can just attach the cam using same bracket like front cam, so you can tilt it wherever you want. Oh, do NOT bend the cam brackets more than 3 times, the metal doesn't bend well and just snaps.
Also you will need someone to help you line up the cams, just turn them to get a right-side-up and level view.
If you want to sit at your workspace (or kitchen counter) and hook up frontcam/rearcam/monitor/switch as a temporary test (before spending hours installing wires and stuff) , get one of these and use it for your testing battery source (or solder wires to 9v)...
The cams and monitor take so little power, a 9volt works just fine!!!!!!!!!!
If you give up trying to figure out the pins on the switch, then look at this (i went crazy before i found this diagram!!!! lol) Hooked up with 'on all the time power present' as noted in bottom right in BLUE
I ordered this for the rear cam , to see if it was better than the one i had installed... Wild-us 360 Degree High Definition Eyeball CCD Waterproof Vehicle Backup Camera with Ruler Line and Wide Angle
I wanted to see if it was small enough to sorta hide, if you could paint it up to help make it hide, see if it would really tilt and sorta look down in order to actually see distance from rear to where you were backing into. The answers are all YES. I would have used this instead if i had bought it in the first place. Now that i have it, i will most likely go ahead and switch it out with what i had installed. Here are 3 pictures, what came in the box, how the cam tilts in its frame and locks down with allen screw, and the outer ring unscrewed. Oh, it also came with about 19' of RCA cable, so you would NOT have to purchase a RCA cable seperate, you will have more than necessary.
original link of topic...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tallation.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tallation.html
Stuff i used to install both front and rear cameras...
A- monitor with duel input (to have front & back) , 3.5"
B- camera for front
C- camera for rear (special usage explained later)
D- fuse for 'add a circuit' , 2 or 3 as low amp used
E- zip ties
F- ground connectors , 2 used
G- line connectors , red ones better as wire is smaller generally
H- quick connectors , 2 used to connect to rear backup lights for rear cam
I- 3M tape SJ3560
J- button switch
K- extra length of RCA cord to get from rear to monitor
L- some red and black wire
N- good ole black electrical tape
O- touch-up paint for rear cam (optional)
P- add a circuit
Q- split wire cover
R- black RTV
i shop alot at Amazon, but seriously, searching you can find this everywhere, maybe even paid vendors here!!
A - 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for Car / Automobile (note: to pop the back stand off, twist it upside down, pop off carefully)
B - Esky EC170-06 World Smallest HD Color CCD Waterproof Vehicle Car Rear View Backup Camera, 170 Degree Viewing Angle Rearview Camera(0.86*0.65*0.50 inch)
C - 1/4" CCD Flush Mount Waterproof Truck Car Reverse Backup Rear View Camera , something i didnt try, it looks sorta large, but would function great to swivel down some in the 'fixed' hole!!...... Wild-us 360 Degree High Definition Eyeball CCD Waterproof Vehicle Backup Camera with Ruler Line and Wide Angle....... SEE NOTE ADDED AT BOTTOM ABOUT REAR CAM
G - Huaha Terminal E-FMY250N-50 22/18-Gauge Economy Nylon Fully-Insulated Male-Female Quick Disconnects
H - Bluecell Pack of 50pcs Solderless Wire Quick Splice Connector, 22-18 Wire Range
I - 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener SJ3560 250 Clear, 1 in x 6 Ft
J - Joyluxy® QN16C2 Latching Metal Push Button Switch 3A/250VAC 1NO1NC SPDT ON/OFF Industrial Car Switch with 5 Pins Suitable for 16mm 5/8" Mounting Hole - Black Shell Blue Light (or this switch.. iiMash 16mm 12V Black Plastic Self-locking Annular Blue Led Lighted Push Button Switch)
K - RCA Audio / Video Extension Cable, RCA Male to RCA Female, 12 foot
P - E Support 12v Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder Pack of 5
Q - Install Bay Split Loom 1/4 Inch 100 Foot Coil - SLT14
R - J-B Weld 31319 Black RTV Sealant - 3 oz.
Front view
I used zip-ties to give some slack to the line coming out of the cam , but fasten the line in place before heading into engine compartment
Note that the line enters a small preexisting gap (purple circle) , you can see the gap light if you look in the grill, i used a clothes hanger to poke in the gap and pull the cam line through the slit. Then used RTV to re-close the gap and prevent rain water from entering while driving. Red line shows wire from cam. Red circle a good place for cam ground.
The red circles is where you can pass line inside, and comes out at the purple circle , used clothes hanger again to attach line and pull it through. You can pass the line under the rubber door seal to enter cabin.
Line enters cabin and goes up as noted in red line. Yellow circles are where i cut vent attachments so that i could pass the monitor cable ends through the vent. Monitor plug ends are attached to the cam RCA cable and the positive line from cam (positive & negative from fuse panel through switch will attached later)
Monitor 3.5" turned sideways to fit in the space.
Purple line is + from from cam and monitor along with - from monitor (- from cam was grounded earlier in engine compartment), heading into cabin to be attached to console switch. red line is cam rca cable arriving from the rear (shown later). blue is cam rca cable from front cam.
Purple line is again, the + & - wires heading to console on/off switch. (should have used split cable cover, will later)
+/- from wiper 'add a circuit' heading for the on/off button switch
Button switch. You will have to raise the console about 6", do not have to totally remove it. Be careful to drill the hole about 1/8" below the white thread. Inside you will have to put on the button switch nut and you need a little space above it, plus you cut into the white trim thread and it will fray and not be neat. Hole must not be bigger than the switch part you insert, the button lip on the outside is small, you wouldnt want the switch to fall in the first time you press it!! Recommend you drill test hole in some scrap, test fit!! You can have led never on, on only when pressed, or on all the time you have power from fuse panel. (i did all the time when power present, your choice). Also you can have momentary or clickon/clickoff. (momentary seems bad to press and drive) Here is a nice UTube to understand how to raise the console enough to reach under, which is all you need to do. The part about removing the gearshift **** can be bypassed. You need only watch until 8min10sec, at which point you can reach under. Hint: solder your three 8-12" leads on the switch , insulate solder points VERY good, then insert leads and switch into hole from outside, thread three switch leads into nut, run nut to switch and screw on tight, then attach your three leads to + in from fuse panel, +out to front cam&monitor, -wire to monitor&fuse panel ground.
Power on distance test. (actually after i got rear & front completed)
Installed rear camera, top two are before touchup painted. (painted the tag screw/bolts while doing cam touchup!)
The rear cam kit had a drill "D" , outside of hole ring "A" that will be unscrewed from actual cam "B". "C" is a metal prong ring that will be inside of the drilled hole so cam wont fall out of the car, the ring "A" screws on outside car so cam doesn't fall inside (you'll figure this out when you get the kit and try it in the hole you drill). Remove both right hand tail lights , reach in, make sure where you drill, you wont drill into some existing wire bundles. I unscrewed "A" held it against car where i wanted to drill, drew a circle around it on the car for drill location. Pulled "A" away, put drill in middle of the circle i drew, drilled hole. Its final, do it right, you have a hole!!! Put cam from inside into hole, screw "A" back onto cam. Cam +/- wire will go to wire bundle to... backup light + is light green wire (NOT dark green!) and backup light - is black wire, bundle is inside right taillight and down a little, you can disconnect and pull it out. Use clam style quick connectors to get your + to light green and your - to black wire. The cam RCA cable will have to go through the plastic into the car, open cover inside see where it's safe to drill, drill through plastic as shown in the right hand picture (i found from another person's posting) , run rca cam cable from inside taillight area into inside of car. Use black RTV to plug hole where rca cable went through.
Red line shows where RCA rear cam cable runs. You can easily tuck it under trim & rubber seals. I had mine in split cable cover, you probably don't have to use it. The bottom right just shows where to tuck all your extra rca cable and zip tie it.
Red line is the rear cam RCA cable still heading for the monitor. Purple is the +/- heading from monitor (and + from front cam) heading for on/off switch. Blue was the front cam RCA cable
All attached
This shows you the 3M SJ3560 used to attach the monitor to dash area. Neat stuff, NO HOLES drilled!!!
Back up cam view. Engine running, on/off button pressed and car in reverse. The monitor has duel cam inputs, it shows cam 1 (yellow monitor plug) and automaticly switches to cam 2 if a signal is activated on it (white monitor plug).
Note... the rear cam can NOT be tilted as it's firm in the drilled hole. If you want to point down and see closer to the rear of the car, the 'cam in hole' is not a good idea. You can just attach the cam using same bracket like front cam, so you can tilt it wherever you want. Oh, do NOT bend the cam brackets more than 3 times, the metal doesn't bend well and just snaps.
Also you will need someone to help you line up the cams, just turn them to get a right-side-up and level view.
If you want to sit at your workspace (or kitchen counter) and hook up frontcam/rearcam/monitor/switch as a temporary test (before spending hours installing wires and stuff) , get one of these and use it for your testing battery source (or solder wires to 9v)...
The cams and monitor take so little power, a 9volt works just fine!!!!!!!!!!
If you give up trying to figure out the pins on the switch, then look at this (i went crazy before i found this diagram!!!! lol) Hooked up with 'on all the time power present' as noted in bottom right in BLUE
I ordered this for the rear cam , to see if it was better than the one i had installed... Wild-us 360 Degree High Definition Eyeball CCD Waterproof Vehicle Backup Camera with Ruler Line and Wide Angle
I wanted to see if it was small enough to sorta hide, if you could paint it up to help make it hide, see if it would really tilt and sorta look down in order to actually see distance from rear to where you were backing into. The answers are all YES. I would have used this instead if i had bought it in the first place. Now that i have it, i will most likely go ahead and switch it out with what i had installed. Here are 3 pictures, what came in the box, how the cam tilts in its frame and locks down with allen screw, and the outer ring unscrewed. Oh, it also came with about 19' of RCA cable, so you would NOT have to purchase a RCA cable seperate, you will have more than necessary.
original link of topic...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tallation.html
Last edited by ChevyDave; 07-12-2015 at 12:47 AM.
