90 Convertible

After hearing you talk about them I have decided to use them in my coupe install. I plan on going with 5.25's because of the ease of install and I don't feel like having to customize kik panels like I did in the vert. My choices are the 130KF and 130KP. Are the KP's really worth the extra money or will the KF's be sufficiant. They both can take the same wattage so I am guessing its in the sound. Let me know, thanks.

fej

Really depends on a couple of things IMO. One being are you going to make the effort to sufficiently sound deaden your doors, which will help a lot and allow you to lower the crossover point a fair amount (say an octave or so). Also what are you going to have in the system with them? IE 8's for bass or a 10" sub or ... ?

If you are just going to run say the 5.25's and tweet with say a 10" sub you can run the KF's and have them play down to around 90hz with some sound deadening and AT LEAST 18db crossover slopes. However if you just plan on running ONLY the 5.25/tweet set (no sub, or say 8's in the rear) I would definitely advise that you pick up the kp's, superior midbass and midrange response, and more accurate IMO.

Hope this helps, would help if you include the type of music that you listen to, what kind of volume you like to push, how many watts your amp will be, if you plan on running a sub or not etc

Fej

90 Convertible

I havent made up my mine on subs (2 8's or 1 10). Car will be sufficiantly sound deadoned(100 sqft of B-quiet Ultimate and Cowboy Kit). Only thing I have so far is an Alpine 9857, still putting together the rest of the system. For amps I am thinking about a JL 300/2 and a 250/1 so I should have plenty of power. I am willing to take other suggestions on amps. I have a 300/4 in the vert and love it. I listen to rock, old and new. The 5.25's will go in the factory kiks so door resonance shouldn't be a problem.

thanks

fej

Make sure you spend a little extra time doing the deadening around the 5.25" drivers in the door and do some system tuning (well more testing for rattles than tuning) without the door panels installed. Then some more testing with the doors panels on to make sure you are not getting a bunch of rattles. Look for brackets and other metal to metal spots that might vibrate. I pulled a couple of items off of the doors and deadened in behind them as well.

I think the KF's will work for you. The sub choice sounds solid although with a 10" I might opt for the 500/1 from JL myself as power in reserve is 100x better than not enough power. 250 watts is not a lot for bass, and is what I am pushing atm to my IDQ and I wish I had a bit more to be honest, but had to sacrafice watts for the single amp install in my daily driver.

G'luck
Fej