C6 Stereo Options
08-17-2006, 01:08 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
C6 Stereo Options
I've been getting various questions about what to do with the stereo in the C6 to upgrade it. There are tons of possibilities, limited by imagination and budget. I figured I'd list some options.
First of all, this discussion is based around a Nav unit, as that is what I have and know. I'm sure the other Bose systems are similar, and the options may be applicable to them as well. Also, these are just my opinions, and I'm a layman / enthusiast. Others may have different opinions; please feel free to contribute / contradict / whatever.
See my thread and others in the C6 FAQ section for details on wiring, mounting, and other technical aspects of the process.
Questions:
1. Can you use an external amp with the Bose door subs. No, you cannot use an external amp with the Bose door subs. Actually, you can, but it requires a lot of rewiring and disconnecting the amp that is built into the subs, not worth it. You're better off buying a new amp and new speakers, imo.
2. What kind of system can I build using the existing head unit? There are several options, from low cost to high cost. Here are the options.
a. Keep door subs, replace mids and maybe add 1" tweeter, add amp for them. You can keep the Bose amp or replace it. Better to replace it, as more power will improve the sound dramatically if you have purchased decent speakers. Make that much better to replace it!
b. Replace door subs with a similar 10" driver (hard to find) or a 6.5" driver (easier). Will definitely need a new amp, but will get much better sound. A single amp can drive the drivers and the mids / tweeters by using a crossover.
c. Replace the 5.25's in the rear. Here too, you'll need a new amp. You can get a 4-way amp to power both the front and rear, though. Or you can amplify them seperately.
d. Get a good amp and subs to round it out. Also, you can just add the amp and subs, and maybe a tweeter only, and improve the sound as well. JL makes a nice Stealthbox to fit into the cubbyhole on the L in the coupe; a stealthbox for the convertible is still yet to be produced. I do believe they're working on one, though.
How do you hook up amps? There are lots of possiblities. I used the PAC AOEM-GM24, which hooks right up to the cable coming out the back of the head unit and gives me 4 RCA's out (LF, RF, LR, RR). This will go right to your amps, although you'll need an extension. The other choice is using the JL Audio Cleensweep. I didn't feel this was necessary, as the PAC unit served the same purpose at much lower cost. However, the Cleensweep does level out the signal so the highs and lows are all at the same level, theoretically better for your sound quality. Don't forget good, heavy gauge power and matching gauge ground wires; right through the fire wall to the battery. Fuse must go near the battery, on the battery side of the firewall.
I recommend you pick a budget, figure out what you think is lacking (ie bass, highs, lows, etc) and either target that or do the whole thing.
Finally, I'll probably add to this tread as ideas pop into my head.
Good luck!
Craig
First of all, this discussion is based around a Nav unit, as that is what I have and know. I'm sure the other Bose systems are similar, and the options may be applicable to them as well. Also, these are just my opinions, and I'm a layman / enthusiast. Others may have different opinions; please feel free to contribute / contradict / whatever.
See my thread and others in the C6 FAQ section for details on wiring, mounting, and other technical aspects of the process.
Questions:
1. Can you use an external amp with the Bose door subs. No, you cannot use an external amp with the Bose door subs. Actually, you can, but it requires a lot of rewiring and disconnecting the amp that is built into the subs, not worth it. You're better off buying a new amp and new speakers, imo.
2. What kind of system can I build using the existing head unit? There are several options, from low cost to high cost. Here are the options.
a. Keep door subs, replace mids and maybe add 1" tweeter, add amp for them. You can keep the Bose amp or replace it. Better to replace it, as more power will improve the sound dramatically if you have purchased decent speakers. Make that much better to replace it!
b. Replace door subs with a similar 10" driver (hard to find) or a 6.5" driver (easier). Will definitely need a new amp, but will get much better sound. A single amp can drive the drivers and the mids / tweeters by using a crossover.
c. Replace the 5.25's in the rear. Here too, you'll need a new amp. You can get a 4-way amp to power both the front and rear, though. Or you can amplify them seperately.
d. Get a good amp and subs to round it out. Also, you can just add the amp and subs, and maybe a tweeter only, and improve the sound as well. JL makes a nice Stealthbox to fit into the cubbyhole on the L in the coupe; a stealthbox for the convertible is still yet to be produced. I do believe they're working on one, though.
How do you hook up amps? There are lots of possiblities. I used the PAC AOEM-GM24, which hooks right up to the cable coming out the back of the head unit and gives me 4 RCA's out (LF, RF, LR, RR). This will go right to your amps, although you'll need an extension. The other choice is using the JL Audio Cleensweep. I didn't feel this was necessary, as the PAC unit served the same purpose at much lower cost. However, the Cleensweep does level out the signal so the highs and lows are all at the same level, theoretically better for your sound quality. Don't forget good, heavy gauge power and matching gauge ground wires; right through the fire wall to the battery. Fuse must go near the battery, on the battery side of the firewall.
I recommend you pick a budget, figure out what you think is lacking (ie bass, highs, lows, etc) and either target that or do the whole thing.
Finally, I'll probably add to this tread as ideas pop into my head.
Good luck!
Craig
Last edited by cmb13; 08-17-2006 at 05:06 PM.
08-17-2006, 02:15 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by LS WON
It seems to be all of these stereos are equipped with navagation. Even the firmware to correct radio reception problems is a navagation only disk.
Good summary cmb13!
The one thing I would add is that using the Bose amp with different speakers really isn't worth it. With all the equalization in the amp and the goofy OHM ratings of the Bose speakers you are far better off using a different amp. Will it work? Sure. Will you be getting the best result from the speakers you bought? Not a chance.
The pin outs are exactly the same on the non-NAV heads so the PAC module can be used with those as well. Actually when you check the PAC web site they specific non-NAV only, it just also happens to work with the NAV.
08-17-2006, 03:11 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by cmb13
I agree with you; I'm just listing that as an option b/c people have asked for all options at all budgets. Suboptimal to use Bose amp? 
08-17-2006, 05:15 PM
#6
okay here is a how to question. I have a convertable with the non nav head unit. i plan to do the PAC AOEM-GM24, new amp and replace the mid and rear speakers( will rewire to stereo). I will leave the 10 inch door subs alone for now
Two questions. Since the door thumpers have their own amps where do they tie into the system? ie how do you keep them working when the bose amp gets bypassed? Do I need something to adjust the front to rear balance someone mentioned that the balance was shifted to the rear speakers when he changed them to stereo and changed out the amplifier.
Two questions. Since the door thumpers have their own amps where do they tie into the system? ie how do you keep them working when the bose amp gets bypassed? Do I need something to adjust the front to rear balance someone mentioned that the balance was shifted to the rear speakers when he changed them to stereo and changed out the amplifier.
08-17-2006, 05:32 PM
#7
Team Owner
Originally Posted by TheKomoman
Good summary cmb13!
The one thing I would add is that using the Bose amp with different speakers really isn't worth it. With all the equalization in the amp and the goofy OHM ratings of the Bose speakers you are far better off using a different amp. Will it work? Sure. Will you be getting the best result from the speakers you bought? Not a chance.
The pin outs are exactly the same on the non-NAV heads so the PAC module can be used with those as well. Actually when you check the PAC web site they specific non-NAV only, it just also happens to work with the NAV.
The one thing I would add is that using the Bose amp with different speakers really isn't worth it. With all the equalization in the amp and the goofy OHM ratings of the Bose speakers you are far better off using a different amp. Will it work? Sure. Will you be getting the best result from the speakers you bought? Not a chance.
The pin outs are exactly the same on the non-NAV heads so the PAC module can be used with those as well. Actually when you check the PAC web site they specific non-NAV only, it just also happens to work with the NAV.
08-17-2006, 06:50 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by dashotgun
okay here is a how to question. I have a convertable with the non nav head unit. i plan to do the PAC AOEM-GM24, new amp and replace the mid and rear speakers( will rewire to stereo). I will leave the 10 inch door subs alone for now
Two questions. Since the door thumpers have their own amps where do they tie into the system? ie how do you keep them working when the bose amp gets bypassed? Do I need something to adjust the front to rear balance someone mentioned that the balance was shifted to the rear speakers when he changed them to stereo and changed out the amplifier.
Two questions. Since the door thumpers have their own amps where do they tie into the system? ie how do you keep them working when the bose amp gets bypassed? Do I need something to adjust the front to rear balance someone mentioned that the balance was shifted to the rear speakers when he changed them to stereo and changed out the amplifier.
You can just use the balance control in the head or depending up on the amp you get it may have it's own gain control where you can set & forget it on the amp. The one thing you will not be able to control separately with that setup is relative bass volume, except for increasing or decreasing the bass tone control.
Originally Posted by LS WON
08-17-2006, 09:22 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TheKomoman
That PAC module acts as a pass-through, so the stock signals are still getting through. That means the 10" in the doors will still function even with the PAC.
You can just use the balance control in the head or depending up on the amp you get it may have it's own gain control where you can set & forget it on the amp. The one thing you will not be able to control separately with that setup is relative bass volume, except for increasing or decreasing the bass tone control.
You can just use the balance control in the head or depending up on the amp you get it may have it's own gain control where you can set & forget it on the amp. The one thing you will not be able to control separately with that setup is relative bass volume, except for increasing or decreasing the bass tone control.
The levels will be set by turning the gain on the amp up or down. Make sure you get an amp with a gain setting; most will have it.
Just make it sound good.
