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C6 - Kenwood DNX7100 Complete Write-Up

 
Old 10-30-2007, 01:16 AM
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30MilesOffshore
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Default C6 - Kenwood DNX7100 Complete Write-Up

Let me start off by saying 3 words: “This unit rocks!” I recently installed it myself and only have great things to say about it. I wouldn’t have been able to do the install without all of the posts and advice I received from this forum. I decided to return the favor and do a write-up on my install. There are tons of great posts on the C6 FAQ page, but maybe you might just find a tip or two to use from this one. I have referenced the ones that helped me out. Thanks to everyone!

Keep in mind that there are several ways to install your system, so your set-up might not be done exactly as mine. There are also numerous brands that you can use besides the ones listed below. This write-up is for informational purposes only and take all safety precautions when working on any vehicle. I even included ballpark prices to give you a reference point.

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The set-up:

The car: 2005 C6 (with Bose & OnStar)

The game plan: Install the following pieces below, remove the Bose system, & retain OnStar
  • Head Unit: Kenwood DNX7100 DVD GPS ($900-$1400)
  • Front Speakers: Polk db6500 6.5” Component Speakers ($100-$150)
  • Rear Speakers: Polk db525 5.25” Speakers ($50-$75)
  • Satellite Radio: XM Direct Setup (Terk XMD1000 + XMDKEN100) ($90-$100)
  • Sound Dampening: B-Quiet Extreme (50 sq. ft.) ($100-$110)
  • Heat Insulation & Sound Pad: generic brand (80 sq. ft.) ($100-$250)
  • Data Bus Interface: Peripheral GMAH24 ($100-$150)
  • Chime Module: Peripheral GMAHCM ($25-$50)
  • Antenna Adapter: Metra 40GM10 ($8-$15)
  • Double Din Dash Kit: Metra 95-3304 ($9-$20)
  • Front Door Speaker Plates: Pair of Lexan sheets (12.5”x13”x1/4”) ($15-$60)
  • Amp Power Kit: Sound Quest 4-Ga. SQ1200X ($35-$45)
  • Amp Power Kit: Scosche 4/8-Ga. Dual Kit AKP4 ($30-$45)
  • Freshly burnt disc of your favorite songs to rock to after you finish the install: (PRICELESS)
To Be Installed (soon):
  • Reverse Camera: W171 ($35-$200)
  • Front & Rear Speaker Amp: Profile AP740 4-ch Amp ($85-$150)
  • Subwoofer Amp: Profile AP600 2-ch Amp ($75-$150)
  • JL Audio Subwoofer Stealthbox: ($550-$700)

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REMOVAL SECTION

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How to Remove Center Console & Radio:

1) See (Red-C6) write-up: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1145523

2) Or (Audio Dave) write-up: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1490531

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How to Remove Door Panels:

1) See (fenderowner) write-up: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1728800

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How to Remove Center Speaker Grill:

1) The grill is held in place by 5 clips (as seen in pic below)

2) These clips pry straight up and pop out. It is tight but they do come out.

3) You can use a screwdriver to help pry them up.

4) It’s easier if you start on the round section in the middle by the speaker (green circle below).

5) Be sure to pry on the solid plastic (green circle below), b/c it’s sturdier and NOT the slotted grill.

6) Once you get the front 2 clips free, you can work towards the outer clips.

7) Lastly, you can unplug the sun sensor (red circle below) and remove the grill (be sure to reconnect it when you reinstall it).



8) You can also see (TheKomoman) write-up: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1496569

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How to Remove Rear Speakers

1) Prop up the rear hatch and secure it. You want to make sure there isn’t any tension on the lifts.

2) You can use a stick to prop up the rear hatch. But be careful to not bump it, b/c your hatch could fall and possibly break the glass.

3) Tip - * Here's an easy way to hold the rear lid up while you remove the shocks; use a ratchet tie strap. It works great, b/c you can hoist it up and down in increments. This comes in handy when you are trying to put the gas shocks back on. Plus, with the ties, you don't have to worry about knocking the wood prop over.



4) Look at the lift shocks down by the speaker panel you will see a rubber boot which you can slide up.

5) You will now see a C-clip which you can pry off with a screwdriver. This clip is what releases the shock from the ball.

6) Tip - * Do not fully pop off these C-clips b/c they can be tricky to put back on. The best thing is to slide the clips halfway, which will give enough clearance to release them off the ball.*

7) Not sure who wrote this up but here are some pics near the bottom of the page:
8) Next step is to pull the panel straight off. There are four white plastic pins that will pop out.

9) Unscrew the speakers & save the speaker bolts for your new speakers.


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INSTALLATION SECTION

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Installing the Sound Dampening Material

1) Why install dampening?
  • Cuts down on resonance, vibrations, & rattles
  • Reduces exterior road noise
  • Cleans up the acoustics of the car

2) I chose to install the material on:
  • Floor pans
  • Center console
  • Inside the door
  • Rear cargo area

3) Use a roller to help with your installation process and trim the material wherever it is needed to give a proper fit.

4) Tip - * Warm the back of the sound dampening material with a heat gun or hair dryer to increase the tackiness. Just be careful to not melt it. You only want to warm it up.*








-------------------------------------------------

Installing the Insulation Kit

1) Why install insulation?
  • Cuts down on vibrations & rattles
  • Reduces exterior road noise
  • Cleans up the acoustics of the car
  • Reduces interior cabin temperatures
2) I chose to install the insulation on:
  • Floor pans
  • Center console
  • Window access hole on doors
  • Rear cargo area
3) You can buy & trim your own material or use the Crazy Cowboy kit. I highly recommend his kit b/c it is pre-cut and also comes with directions for removal of your interior pieces.4) With the car gutted, you can easily run all of your wires without any problems.

5) Tip - * Another benefit of the insulation kit is that you can tape the wires down to the insulation. This ensures they stay separate from each other so they don’t pick up any electrical interference. Also it keeps them from getting pinched or crimped. (green circles below)*














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How to Install Component Speakers in Front Doors

1) Depending on your set-up you may need some speaker plates. Here are some options:
2) I decided to give the Lexan a try. This was my first time working with Lexan but it turned out nice. I choose the Lexan b/c its: strong, waterproof, cheap, and can be easily cut & drilled.

3) Do not remove the film off of the lexan at this time.

4) Using the Bose subwoofer as a guide, draw a template with a sharpie marker, to give you the outside diameter for your speaker plate.

5) Using a jigsaw and fine tooth blade (24 teeth), you can easily trim the outer edge of the lexan.

6) Now, the original square sheet of lexan should be round in shape (see pic below).

7) Next step is to double check your work.

8) Hold the lexan up to the door panel to make sure the outer edge is cut properly and the 4 speaker bolt holes are not cut too short (green arrows in pic below).



9) Now it’s time to cut the inner diameter so you can mount the speaker (see pic above).

10) Some speakers come with a paper template in the box. If not, then you will have to use the speaker or speaker grill as your template.

11) Tip - * Be sure to use the inner diameter of the speaker and not the outer diameter of the speaker.*

12) Tip - * It’s also a good idea to position the speaker off-center to help allow for clearance of the window and also helps position the speaker behind the factory grill of the door panel. *

13) Using the jigsaw, now cut-out the speaker hole.

14) Tip - * This speaker piece that you are cutting out will be used later for the tweeter mount, so be careful to not chop it up. Once it is cut out, place it to the side for later use. *

15) You can now peel off the protective coating on both sides of the lexan.

16) Hold the clear lexan up to the door. With a sharpie, mark the location for the 4 speaker bolt holes. (yellow circles in pic below).



17) After you mark them, drill them out. Make sure the diameter of the drill bit is larger than the screw, to allow the speaker bolt to easily screw into its original location.

18) I choose to cover the back of the speaker plate with a sheet of sound dampening. This offers a couple of benefits:
  • Reduces vibration
  • Provides a seal for the speaker plate when screwed into the door panel
  • Gives it a dark appearance which hides it after you reinstall the door panel.




19) Before you install the speakers, now is a good time to run some new speaker wire & decide on where to put the crossover.

20) Where to place your crossovers?
  • Some people have put them in the door itself.
  • I decided to keep mine in the interior cabin, so it will be out of the rain/moisture.
  • Drive Side Crossover: there is a big empty spot behind the cluster panel. If you look behind the dash it is approximately right behind the (gas & rear) hatch buttons and below the driver side air vent.
  • Passenger Side Crossover: Since I removed the factory Bose amplifier, that empty spot made an excellent location.

21) With your crossovers located, you can now run the speaker wires through the door.

22) On the driver side there is a plastic square shroud that needs to be popped off in order to access the door wires. It is very tight, but you can use a flat screwdriver to help pop it off.

23) Once you get this square cover off, you will need to drill a small hole through it so you can run the speaker wires. Make sure the hole is wide enough to allow the wires to slide through without any tension. It would also be a good idea to put a rubber grommet on this hole. Now run the speaker wires through this hole. Do not reinstall the square cover yet.

24) Next, I taped the speaker wires to a 23-in flex shaft pickup tool to help it run through the rubber conduit tube in the door jam. If you don’t have one of these, you can also use a coat hanger. Just be sure that you don’t poke a hole in the rubber tube when you are pushing the wire through. There is plenty of room in the rubber tube so you shouldn’t have any problems.

25) You will need 2 sets of wires for each door. One is for the driver and the other is for the tweeter. You can run both sets of wires together at the same time.

26) Tip - * Be sure to label the wires so you know which is for the driver and which is for the tweeter.*

27) Tip - * To save you from putting a hole in the factory grommet on the door, I drilled a small hole in the woofer baffle. This will let you run the wire up to the tweeter. (green circle in pic) *



28) Tip - * Be sure to ziptie your speaker wires when inside the door so they don't get hung on the window mechanism. There is a bundle of wire running down that you can attach too.

29) Tip - * Also be sure to leave some slack in your door speaker wires so the door will open/close without any problems.

30) Do a check by opening & closing the door. Once this checks, you can reinstall the square plastic cover that you popped off (step 22).

31) With all of the wires run, you can now install the tweeter.

32) It’s time to find that round piece of lexan that was cut out earlier (step 14) when you mounted the driver. This is going to be the tweeter speaker plate.

33) You can mount it as it is (round) or you can trim it for a more professional look. I chose to trim it.

34) Using the factory 3.5” speaker as your template, trace the outer edge of the speaker onto the lexan.

35) Take the jigsaw and now trim the edge off. Be sure to also trim the slot that helps it secure onto the door panel.

36) Now peel off any plastic stickers that may still be on the lexan.

37) Next step is to mark and drill out the holes for the 4 speaker bolts.

38) Now is the time to double check your jigsaw skills and make sure everything lines up properly.

39) With everything looking good, you can now mount the tweeter to the speaker plate.

40) Most tweeters come with two types of mounting systems (surface & flush) mount.

41) If your tweeter will clear the speaker grill, the easiest will be the surface mount.

42) With the tweeter positioned on the plate, you can drill the hole for the speaker wire.

43) Using a small piece of scrap sound dampening, I covered the side of the tweeter plate that screws onto the door.



44) Now finish it off and screw the tweeter plate onto the door panel and connect the tweeter wire.

45) Tip - * Excellent tip by (ttomczak) - Use a quick disconnect on your tweeter wire, so you can unplug it if you ever need to take the door off again in the future. (See pic below this post).

46) Mission is now accomplished and you can reinstall the door panel.



47) Now repeat these steps on the passenger door.

48) Last step is to run speaker wire from the crossover to the HU or 4-ch amplifier (if you are using one).


----------------------------------------------------

How to Install Rear Speakers

1) This is one of the easiest steps to do.

2) I chose to run some new wires from the HU to the rear of the car.

3) You can run the wire down the center console and over to each rear speaker location.

4) The speakers fit the stock location without any type of modifications. Connect the wires and then screw them in.






-----------------------------------------------


How to Install Amplifiers:

1) Select the proper gauge wire & length for the amplifier that you are connecting.

2) Run the power wire to the battery.
3) Run the ground wire to a proper location
4) Run the remote wire from the HU to the amp

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How to Pick the Right Data Bus Interface:

Depending on your car’s options and your planned stereo set-up, you will need some of the parts below:

1) GMCO – stock radio (Without Bose or OnStar)

2) GMAH24 – stock radio & OnStar

3) GMAH24B – Bose radio & OnStar

4) GMAHCM – chime module for use with GMAH24 or GMAH24B

5) SVEN2 or SVEN4 – retains OEM radio & allows addition of aftermarket amplifier

6) PESWIAKJ, PESWIAKJC, or PESWIECL – steering wheel control interfaces
------------------------------------------------

How to Connect the wires on the GMAH24 + GMAHCM

1) Link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1821769

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How to Connect the OnStar:

1) The OnStar connects to & is powered by the GMAH24 or GMAH24B.

2) If you look on the GM-2412 harness, the speaker gets connected to (Pin 3 + Pin 11).

3) There is a small hole on the GMAH24 & GMAH24B where you can insert a small screwdriver and adjust the volume as needed.

4) I chose to use the center channel speaker that (_Nomad_) suggested:------------------------------------------------


The Ultimate Kenwood DNX7100 Section


-------------------------------------------------

Kenwood DNX7100 Manuals:
--------------------------------------------------

Where Do All Of These Wires Go Coming From The Back Of The DNX7100?
  • With the DNX7100 you do NOT need to tap into the VSS wire. (That is a good thing!)
  • When you go to install the unit, it is a tight fit, but everything will fit into the dash. Just take your time and fold the wires underneath the HU in the little cubby hole.


  • You do not need to hook up the reverse wire unless you plan to use a backup camera.
  • When installing the Metra Dash Kit, I used all of the screws that came with the kit to secure it on the sides. Using all of the screws will help relieve some of the stress & pressure that the HU puts on the plastic when it is sitting in the dash. Be sure to not overtighten the screws so you don't crack, break, or warp the plastic. You just want to keep it snug.
  • I did not use a bracket on the rear of the radio for three reasons. (1) it was too tight of a fit w/ all of the wires (2) the angle of the HU helps relieve any stress that is placed on the Metra Dash kit (3) the HU is already secured via the side mounts (see the sentence above this one).

The Wires

1) (Red) Ignition wire – connects to RAD-18 harness red wire (Pin 1)

2) (Yellow) Battery wire – connects to RAD-18 harness yellow wire (Pin 10) + yellow wire on GMAHCM

3) (Black) Ground wire – connects to RAD-18 harness black wire (Pin 5) + black wire on GMAHCM. All three of these black wires (DNX7100, GMAH24, and GMAHCM) need to be grounded. There are a couple of ground points that can be used:
  • Run it back to the battery
  • Factory bolt in center console behind stock HU
  • Factory ground point on B-pillar (passenger side)
  • I chose to use the factory ground point on the B-pillar. It is a good idea to sand off the paint on this location to help ensure a good connection. You can use a dremmel or drill to help scuff the paint. I also sanded the bolt to clean it up too. Be sure to only sand the bolt lightly, you don’t want to sand the threads down.
  • I do not have any pics, but (TheKomoman) has some on his page: http://www.lazyassgeek.com/photos/th...lbum=42&page=3
4) (Antenna Cord) – one end of 40GM10 plugs into the back of the DNX7100 and the other end plugs into factory corvette antenna wire.

5) (Light Green) (PRK SW) – (parking sensor wire) – “For the sake of safety, be sure to connect to parking sensor”. Or you can just ground this wire to the same ground point you chose above.

6) (Purple/White) (REVERSE) – (reverse sensor wire) – allows for interruption of the reverse camera
7) (Orange/White) (ILLUMI) - (dimmer control wire) – You can tap into the hazard lights or traction control harness.
8) (Light Blue/Yellow) (REMO.CONT) – (steering remote control input) – connects to optional peripheral steering remote unit

9) (Brown) (MUTE) - (mute wire) – connects to RAD-18 harness brown wire (Pin 18).

10) (Blue) (ANT.CONT) - (motor antenna control wire) – connects to RAD-18 harness blue wire (Pin 4).

11) (Blue/White) (P CONT) - (power control wire) – connects to aftermarket amplifier or RAD-18 harness (Pin 2)

12) (Pink/Black) (EXT.AMP.CONT) – special connection used for Kenwood eXcelon amps which allow the HU to adjust the bass boost on the amp.

13) (GPS Antenna Input) – plugs into GPS antenna. The antenna can be mounted several places but the majority of people are mounting them on the top of the air vent.
14) (Relay Box Harness) (Relay 1 & 2) – these wires allow you to control two devices through the HU. It basically acts like a switch which will turn the device off/on. Be sure to use a relay when connecting this up. Also the maximum power supply current is 500mA. So double check your device before connecting it.

15) (USB Terminal) – connects to USB flash drive. I would put this in a secure & safe location that you can easily get to later:
  • Center console (keep in mind that it gets hot in there)
  • Passenger footwell
  • Glove box
  • I ran it to the glove box, which is easy to do. I don't drive around w/ the glove box open. You just plug your USB in and close the glove box. I leave the flash drive plugged in all the time. You can find a cheap 128MB for free or about $5. That size will hold hundreds of backgrounds on it.
  • Tip - * Cover the USB wire where it rubs on any metal or hard plastic parts w/ some type of wire loom. *





Speaker Connections:

1) These can be connected several ways:
  • Run straight to your speakers if HU is powering your speakers
  • Connect to Peripheral data bus if using OEM amp
  • Do not connect these if powering speakers w/ 4-ch amp

2) (White/Black) – Front Left (-)

3) (White) – Front Left (+)

4) (Gray/Black) – Front Right (-)

5) (Gray) – Front Right (+)

6) (Green/Black) – Rear Left (-)

7) (Green) – Rear Left (+)

8) (Purple/Black) – Rear Right (-)

9) (Purple) – Rear Right (+)


RCA Connections:

1) (AV OUT) – (Yellow) – sends video signal out to aftermarket monitor

2) (AV IN) – (Yellow/White/Red) – receives audio/visual signal from a secondary source (i.e. Camcorder, Playstation, Xbox, etc.)

3) (REARVIEW CAMERA) – (Yellow) – receives input signal from reverse camera or any other video source

4) (FRONT) – (Red/White) – sends signal to aftermarket amp to control front speakers

5) (REAR) – (Red/White) – sends signal to aftermarket amp to control rear speakers

6) (SUBWOOFER) – (Red/White) – sends signal to aftermarket amp to control subwoofer

7) (AV OUT) – (Red/White) – sends audio signal to device

8) (IPod Audio In) – plugs into IPod using KCA-iP300V

9) (IPod Video In) – plugs into IPod using KCA-iP300V

------------------------------------------

How Can you Connect XM?

1) You can connect XM via one of two ways:
  • GXM30 (provides XM radio + Navitraffic) (You must use this antenna if you plan to add Bluetooth)
  • XM Direct Setup (Terk XMD1000 + XMDKEN100)

2) See (Klaus-96) post: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1737469

3) Tip - * Be sure you don't crimp/cut/bend your GPS antenna wire. It was my understanding that they are fiber optic and can only bend to a certain degree. Any excess you have needs to be wrapped properly. I coiled & ziptied the wire and stashed it in the passenger footwell. *

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How to Customize & Change the Background (Wallpaper)

1) Tip - * The only way to change your background is through the USB connection. So be sure to leave it accessible (run it to your glove box, passenger footwell, and center console, etc.).

2) Link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1844294

----------------------------------------

How to Enable the NAV Icon on the Menu

1) Link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1824374

----------------------------------------

How to Enable the SAT Icon on the Menu

1) See (carbuff) post: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1842967

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Can you Connect an External Hard Drive up to it?

1) Link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1840401

----------------------------------------

Questions about using the Bluetooth Adapter KCA-BT100:

1) See (ttomczak) post: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1765549

2) See middle of post section: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1824374

3) See post: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1747973

----------------------------------------

Questions about the Reverse Camera:

1) See (5W0P3) post: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1845259

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Questions about Crossovers?

1) See (ttomczak) post: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1820484

--------------------------------------

Having Problems with your AM reception:

1) See (carbuff) post: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1843208

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DNX7100 Installation pics





1) See (ttomczak) post: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1782164

2) See (carbuff) post: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1849831

Last edited by 30MilesOffshore; 10-31-2007 at 09:16 AM.
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Old 10-30-2007, 03:46 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by 30MilesOffshore
4) I chose to use the center channel speaker that (_Nomad_) suggested:

13) (GPS Antenna Input) – plugs into GPS antenna. The antenna can be mounted several places but the majority of people are mounting them on the top of the air vent.
Excellent write up man!!!

For some reason the links you have to my write-up aren't working. I don't know why since all your other links work fine. All I get is a 404 error when I click on them. By the way, thanks for referencing it. Perhaps try going to the thread itself and redo the copy/past of the URL? Or try replacing them with the link below? It looks identical to yours but it seems to work for me...weird man...weird.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1518095

Maybe it's just some All Hallows Eve shenanigans!
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Old 10-30-2007, 08:13 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by _Nomad_ View Post
Excellent write up man!!!

For some reason the links you have to my write-up aren't working. I don't know why since all your other links work fine. All I get is a 404 error when I click on them. By the way, thanks for referencing it. Perhaps try going to the thread itself and redo the copy/past of the URL? Or try replacing them with the link below? It looks identical to yours but it seems to work for me...weird man...weird.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1518095

Maybe it's just some All Hallows Eve shenanigans!


I asked Chris to put something together to try to tie all of the DNX7100 stuff into a single thread since so many folks are installing it into C6's.. but Killer job Chris, thanks!


As far as those links go.. it's because of the way the forum displays them. When the link is more than X number of characters the forum software displays it with the "....." in the middle to shorten it. So if you just copy & paste the link text you get a bad link. If you right-click over it and choose Copy Shortcut you'd get the correct link.

To fix 'em up just change the link to this:

Code:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=#######
Replacing the ####### with the thread number(t=).

Thanks again Chris, great job!!
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:03 AM
  #4  
30MilesOffshore
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Ok, I fixed the hyperlinks. I definitely want to give credit to all the great posts that helped me out.

I must say that it was Nomad's post which inspired me to do my install. If you haven't read it yet, you should definitely check it out. Thanks!
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Old 10-30-2007, 11:13 AM
  #5  
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This was wonderful, I think I will make one install thread (new) than the 3 I have, I will send you the link and you can update the thread...

Thanks for all the hard work!

One minor suggestion, on the tweeter install, it is a good idea to have some kind of disconnect so when removing the door, there is nothing keeping it attached...

This is what I did in mine...

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Old 10-30-2007, 12:45 PM
  #6  
Klaus-96
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Default Another XM Option Soon

You might want to add that there should be a third option soon for XM. It is called XM Direct 2, and uses the new XM Mini-Tuner which can be removed from the car and used in another car or the house. This means that your subscription is not locked to one tuner that is in a fixed location. Here's a link:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...=3&tp=87&avf=N
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Old 10-30-2007, 01:48 PM
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I just called Kenwood about that XM Direct 2, they have no knowledge of it at all...

They say it's a TERK product and they also have no information on compatibility (like the BT100 / Terk incompatibility issue)...
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Old 10-30-2007, 02:19 PM
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Klaus-96
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I don't believe it has been released yet. But you do raise an important point. Someone will have to test the combination to be sure it works.
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Old 01-31-2008, 01:14 PM
  #9  
marcogag
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Default XM antenna placement?

Where did you mount the XM antenna in your c6?
I'm adding the Kenwood XM Kenwood direct but do not want to mount the antenna anywhere visable outside or inside the vehicle.
Is it possible to use the OEM antenna to the Kenwood satellite radio?
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Old 01-31-2008, 01:30 PM
  #10  
pentavolvo
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im sure you could use oem antenna with an adapter or somethin

a number of people have put the antenna where the center speaker was or just slid it right into the dash vents

personally when I do a c5 i either mount it under the hood, or behind one of the rear brake lights
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Old 01-31-2008, 07:08 PM
  #11  
ttomczak
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You have to modify the GM connector to work in an aftermarket radio, but it will work...

For 05's though, the connector is in the back of the Car...
I believe it's more in the front for the 06's and up...

As Penta said though, the dash vents (there is an area on top) or the center speaker section works well also...
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Old 08-19-2008, 07:45 AM
  #12  
jacks996
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nice job
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Old 04-08-2019, 05:21 PM
  #13  
tjaved22
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Default Kenwood Stereo & Controls Install Pricing

I'm finally getting to my Kenwood install, needed advice on this pricing that was quoted. I already have the Kenwood DDX9704S and a rear camera.

I want the Kenwood to connect with my steering controls and the rear camera to connect when switching to reverse.

Here's what they have quoted me with parts and pricing:
-Module Harness with install $160
-Radio (Kenwood) Install $60 (Already have this to give to them for install)
-Steering Wheel Control $60
-Backup Camera Wiring with control switch $75 (Already have the rear camera for them to install)
-USB Flush Mount $40
-Bezel & GM kit $15

I'm not sure why they are charging $75 for the backup camera install when I already have it and just need to be wired and plugged in. $40 for the USB Flush mount seems high, as the console will already be apart and install for that should not be much and the part itself should not be much. What is the module harness and steering wheel control, I thought these would be the same thing?
What is a bezel & GM kit and why is it $15?


Total adds up to $400, but they said they will do it for $260.

I originally though all i would need is: 1. Kenwood Stereo unit 2. Rear camera 3.Harness to connect to the steering wheel controls
I already have the Kenwood unit and rear camera, so I thought I'd just be paying for the harness and labor.

Need your feedback please
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:51 PM
  #14  
TorchRedFred
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Originally Posted by tjaved22 View Post
I'm finally getting to my Kenwood install, needed advice on this pricing that was quoted. I already have the Kenwood DDX9704S and a rear camera.

I want the Kenwood to connect with my steering controls and the rear camera to connect when switching to reverse.

Here's what they have quoted me with parts and pricing:
-Module Harness with install $160
-Radio (Kenwood) Install $60 (Already have this to give to them for install)
-Steering Wheel Control $60
-Backup Camera Wiring with control switch $75 (Already have the rear camera for them to install)
-USB Flush Mount $40
-Bezel & GM kit $15

I'm not sure why they are charging $75 for the backup camera install when I already have it and just need to be wired and plugged in. $40 for the USB Flush mount seems high, as the console will already be apart and install for that should not be much and the part itself should not be much. What is the module harness and steering wheel control, I thought these would be the same thing?
What is a bezel & GM kit and why is it $15?


Total adds up to $400, but they said they will do it for $260.

I originally though all i would need is: 1. Kenwood Stereo unit 2. Rear camera 3.Harness to connect to the steering wheel controls
I already have the Kenwood unit and rear camera, so I thought I'd just be paying for the harness and labor.

Need your feedback please
The $400 price is way over inflated and the individual prices are also inflated. The $260 is a little inflated but still reasonable imo. Besides the head unit and backup camera, the only things you need to finish the install would be the wiring harness/interface with steering wheel controls and the GM bezel/faceplate. If you purchased the Pac Audio RP5-GM11 harness, it would run around $90 online and comes with steering wheel controls. The GM bezel is about $10. USB flush mount is about $12-15.
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